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Posted

I'm fitting my worktops, finally. My kitchen is galley style ie a worktop either side of the nb. I've seen many worktops tucked all the way under the gunnels but usually leaving a small gap from the worktop surface to the underneath of the gunnel. I never liked seeing that gap and as my gunnels are at 91cm internally I thought they were just about perfect for having the worktop fitted snug.

So today I offered up the two worktop sections. The first thing that struck me was that loosing the 9cm under the gunnel seems to make the worktops look overly narrow. The second thing was that they felt just a tiny tad too high. So I tried various heights and settings - funny enough leaving 3-4 cm under the gunnel helped give the illusion of more depth. But also bringing the worktops out 2cm seemed to help, when I did have them tucked tight under the gunnels.

I'm wondering what to do now! Obviously there are other issues with the hob and the sink (actually the sink isn't too big and fits nicely whatever I do but I'd like to have it centered or aligned with the hob so messing around with the worktop positions obviously has an effect).

I've already cut a slope to the cupboard backs so they sit in all the way but if I bring the worktop out a couple cm I can just drag the cupboards forward too.

I guess I'm hoping for a good reason to do one thing or the other - I'd like to hear other peoples experience, if you have fitted your own kitchen.

I took some photos to post but they don't really show what I'm on about.

Who'd have thought it would be this complicated!

 

Posted

I would avoid all awkward spaces like a gap under the gunwale - they just get mucky and difficult to clean/maintain.

91cm is the correct height for a worktop in a house - why would you want it any different on a boat?

Are you using slimline base units and appliances (50cm instead of the standard 60cm)?

You can't expect the worktops in a narrowboat (assuming that's what you've got) to look as wide as you may be used to in a house.

Posted

Standard domestic worktop height is usually around 910, which allows for 'standard' units of 870 below.

 

As for how far out to fit them, that's entirely your decision bearing in mind aesthetics, practicalities of opening cupboard doors, and leaving a wide enough walkway.

Posted

Like yourself, I cut the back of the cupboards to suit the angle, but just slid the worktops right under. Never noticed any problems from doing this.

Posted

When I fitted my galley style work tops I fitted them fully under and up tight to the gunwhales as it gave a wider space between them so did not feel so tight, then I finished off with a neat silicone joint.

 

Neil

Posted

I actually set my cupboards higher meaning the worktop sits above the gunwale giving me a full depth worktop, which as you mentioned means the sink and hob sit nicely.

 

The reason for higher worktops was I always get a bad back when standing at the sink or cooking and it feels better for me, it did take some getting used to though.

Posted

I actually set my cupboards higher meaning the worktop sits above the gunwale giving me a full depth worktop, which as you mentioned means the sink and hob sit nicely.

 

The reason for higher worktops was I always get a bad back when standing at the sink or cooking and it feels better for me, it did take some getting used to though.

Although 'U.K. Standard' height is 910 any quality bespoke kitchen company will fit a worktop right up to 1m or even higher. It's not that unusual.

 

Worth a read: https://www.lwk-home.com/kitchen-blog/find-your-ideal-kitchen-worktop-height/

Posted

Thanks - it looks pretty clear which way the vote is going! Apparently for my height 92cm is correct, though it feels tall.

I've tried to take pics but they don't really show much, but here goes anyway...

 

 

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Posted

Mine are flush with the edge of the gunwale, with a tiled infill piece closing off the gap. This is removable to get to the water pipes behind, and inspect the gas pipe.

 

The cupboards also aren't flush with the wall, because of the taps on the sink- they meant the whole run has had to come out by about 4" resulting in a wasted void behind. Not ideal.

Posted

Mine are flush with the edge of the gunwale, with a tiled infill piece closing off the gap. This is removable to get to the water pipes behind, and inspect the gas pipe.

 

The cupboards also aren't flush with the wall, because of the taps on the sink- they meant the whole run has had to come out by about 4" resulting in a wasted void behind. Not ideal.

Neat idea. Wish I had thought of that

Posted

Assuming you have a walk through kitchen with worktops either side and a corridor down the middle, I would always opt to tuck 600mm worktops right under the gunwale, and shape off cupboard ends to match the profile of the cabin lining.

 

I think anything else will result in a corridor that is inconveniently narrow, and frankly modern kitchen units hide enough wasted "services" space at the back, without dragging them away from the "walls" to create even more wasted space.

 

Interestingly we will not be faced with the same situation when we refit the kitchen in "Flamingo". The hull sides are so much deeper than any modern leisure boats that there will be a gap of quite a few inches between top of work surface and underneath of gunwale. I can imagine it ending up as a place where coffee, tea, sugar, spices etc get stored, (and crumbs accumulate!)

Posted

If you have any services (cables, etc) running in a channel under the gunnel, make sure you leave some means of getting at them in future without, for example, having to rip the back out of the cupboards and take a hole saw to the underside of the worktop. You can probably guess how I know this, and for bonus points you can imagine what I said about the man who fitted in the first place!

Posted

I noticed you have cut the rear of the units to allow them to go right back to the side. Just a reminder this is not possible

to do to any appliances that you maybe fitting. How do i know ?

Posted

I hadn't thought about the gas pipe. Is there some kind of regulation (does it have to be visible?).

 

One side I have base units, the other side appliances, and I figured that if I get stuck for space for any piping or whatever, doomsday scenario can always cut into the side wall behind.

 

It all just looks a tad tall and narrow tucked right in the gunnels... will hopefully decide today.

 

Still struggling with choice of hob too! Clearance rules to combustibles?

Posted

I hadn't thought about the gas pipe. Is there some kind of regulation (does it have to be visible?).

<snip>

Clearance rules to combustibles?

All joints must be visible. There must be enough pipe visible to demonstrate that the correct frequency and type of clips are being used.

 

Combustibles - sufficient distance for them to not combust.

Posted (edited)

I hadn't thought about the gas pipe. Is there some kind of regulation (does it have to be visible?).

 

One side I have base units, the other side appliances, and I figured that if I get stuck for space for any piping or whatever, doomsday scenario can always cut into the side wall behind.

 

It all just looks a tad tall and narrow tucked right in the gunnels... will hopefully decide today.

 

Still struggling with choice of hob too! Clearance rules to combustibles?

Have a read of this:

 

http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/268789/ecp-private-boats-ed3_rev2_apr2015_public_final.pdf

 

Gas pipe has to be visible throughout the length (or I believe copious photos taken of any permanently covered bits); any covers ought to be removable.

 

Edit: that's not completely true, as WotEver says all joints have to be visible, and the condition of the pipe that can be seen is checked (7.8.1).

 

I suppose if you have a long run where it can't be seen, and a very pedantic examiner, they could argue that there might be a joint or the pipework could be inadequately supported where it can't be seen.

Edited by FadeToScarlet
Posted

I hadn't thought about the gas pipe. Is there some kind of regulation (does it have to be visible?)

 

The BSS requires that all joints in LPG pipework are accessible for inspection.

 

It does not actually require that all the pipework id exposed, but it is usually considered implicit that it can all be exposed if required, if only to prove there are no hidden joints in it the that can't be accessed.

 

I would say installing an LPG pipework in a manner that your kitchen units are covering it, making it inaccessible, would not be a good idea at all.

Posted

Couple of points

1) See my topic/quote from BSS with regards to using Tracpipe/Gastite stainless steel corrugated LPG pipe for ease of installation

2) Don`t forget when fitting a kitchen that using the space under the units from the likes of Howdens and B&Q by removing the legs, siting the unit on a plinth will allow for floor level draws. More storage!!!! This will however need to considered in relation to your finished worktop level.

Posted

Couple of points

1) See my topic/quote from BSS with regards to using Tracpipe/Gastite stainless steel corrugated LPG pipe for ease of installation

2) Don`t forget when fitting a kitchen that using the space under the units from the likes of Howdens and B&Q by removing the legs, siting the unit on a plinth will allow for floor level draws.Wine Rack More storage!!!! This will however need to considered in relation to your finished worktop level.

Posted

Trouble with low level wine rack is the ability to reach the second bottle. Perhaps a safety issue?

I have no problem crawling along the floor after one bottle of wine cheers.gif

Posted

When we refitted the galley of our last boat, we had a similar issue in that the worktop went right under the gunnels and there was a 5cm fillet between the worktop and the underside of the gunnel lining.

One of the things that nearly caught us out was that the new worktop was 38mm thick, where the old one was 25mm.... luckily we had a table saw to hand to take off the difference.

We tried it without the fillet and it didn't look right, and as said, it would have been a trap for food crumbs etc. Having the fillet too close to the front of the lining also looked bad so we ended up moving it back about 2 cm.

Posted (edited)

fillet - just a piece fitted along the join of two perpendicular boards. e.g RA triangle in section, or concave. You can buy moulding from DIY sheds, SDM, timber yards.

Edited by Sir Percy

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