tilling round stove. what type of tiles? What adhesive?

[squarelips]

Hi you lot of fantastic boat freaks,

 

I am finally putting my stove together. Going to tile the surrounding area this week. Do i need any specific type of heat proof tiles? or just regular ceramic tiles do it? Also any heat proof adhesive or anything?

 

I have 25 mm calcium silicate board with 10mm air gap behind.. Any one know if i can affix tiles directly onto calcium silicate?

 

Thanks for any advise you got for me. You people are beautiful x

thankyou

 

 

[pophops]

I used regular ceramic tiles and applied them with Gripfill, a solvent-based adhesive which comes in a cartridge - Screwfix stock it. Then I grouted them with a standard white cement grout.

I've had no problems with it and it's been done about 6 years now.

[Bloomsberry]

I've just tiled around my stove recently and included a 25mm calcium silicate board divider on one side to protect some local furniture.

 

I've used ceramic tiles with standard adhesive/grout with no issues so far.

 

Just tiled straight onto the board with no issues. It's early days yet but it seems to be holding well after a few firings so have no reason to think it will fail.

 

On someone's advice on here I put some tin foil on the tile surface directly behind the stove and the difference in temperature is noticeable, the tiles are stone cold whereas normally they quite hot.

[stegra]

Perhaps you could fix them with high temperature silicone and then grout as normal.

[RD1]

Perhaps you could fix them with high temperature silicone and then grout as normal.

Might this make the tiles quite flexible and might crack the hard grout ?

 

As a precaution, carry some spare tiles and a small amount of adhesive/grout.

 

Failing that, contact NASA, and ask what they used to attach the heat shield tiles on the space shuttle lol.

[dor]

Flooring tile cement is good as it is slightly flexible and so tiles are less likely to crack. Same for the grout. No need to use high temperature silicone, it doesn't get that hot.

 

I used 20mm stone slabs from a monumental mason who cut to size including bevelled edge. These are held by silicone.

[Chewbacka]

Calcium silicate board is quite weak, so don't push too hard when applying the adhesive or bedding the tiles down.

[Dave Payne]

Calcium silicate board is quite weak, so don't push too hard when applying the adhesive or bedding the tiles down.

Found that out when I lent on the base I had laid, £35 down the pan...

[blackrose]

I used high temperature silicone and grouted with a flexible grout. It's been fine for 11 years.

Edited January 7, 2017 by blackrose

[Geoff Taylor]

I too used high temp silicone and grouted with fire cement, whatever the old grout was turned to dust and the reason for using high temp silicone was that my tiles are almost all black and do get very hot. So far so good!.

[blackrose]

If using silicone you only need a blob on each corner of the tile and one in the middle for bigger tiles. You don't need to apply silicone over the whole tile or onto the fireboard like you would with tile cement. And that's another advantage of silicone. If you use tile cement most fireboard it will suck the moisture out of the cement and can weaken it. You should seal any porous material before tiling with something like PVA, but if you use silicone there's no need to do that.

Edited January 7, 2017 by blackrose

[squarelips]

thanks you guys- really great advice there. So helpful. Thank you so much. You are all wonderful x

[Polishicebreaker]

I used p-40 mastic and all good.

[Johny London]

I did mine with a coat of pva on the cal sil board then used the flexible adhesive which sets rather like a very hard plastic as opposed to a brittle cement - if you have ever tried removing it you will know how tough it is.

Tiles - if going for anything glazed then make sure they are especially for fireplaces (double fired?) as others may crack and craze. Quarry tiles are a good cheap solution and can be found with "bull nose" ends especially for getting a nice finish in these sort of situations. (Don't forget to seal any porous tiles with a wipe over of boiled linseed oil). Slate tiles are good though some people say that one large piece of slate should be avoided as it can crack.

If using natural tiles (ie slate) if they are very uneven you will want a deep bed of adhesive in order to work them level.

[Nightwatch]

I used high temperature silicone and grouted with a flexible grout. It's been fine for 11 years.

Will silicon stick to stainless steel in this environment?

[stegra]

Will silicon stick to stainless steel in this environment?

 

I think it should do as the high temp stuff is high modulus acetoxy cure so should be self-priming (etching) to the steel. Might be best to check a data sheet. If the temperature isn't so high, PU might be better.