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Refurb windows??


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Morning folks, my friend is debating the issue of windows on her narrowboat.

It's a bare shell at present that's just been surveyed and some welding done as well as engine out for repair and painting etc. In other words, she's going the long way and doing it properly.

The windows are a little dilapidated but perhaps salvageable. The frames are in ok condition but naturally leaking a bit around the bottoms where they are fixed to hull. There's a little rust around apertures too.

She is on a budget but us debating new windows if required.

Has anyone had much experience of 're-conditioning' hopper windows like this, is it worth it or may it be better in the long run to buy new?

 

Many thanks!

 

Ed

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Hi Ed, I refurbished a set of ally windows a while ago. It saved a for tune bt was a pain to do, fiddly. I got the seals from Seals Direct and the cost was a total of around £85 to refurb them.

 

Have a look on this blog i done on them.

 

Page 3 on wards

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=76076&page=3

 

Not the same type as you are talking about but could be of help.

 

Use a good sealant like a Sikaflex as this way you can be sure to get a best job done.

 

All Best

 

Wayne

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Thanks Wayne, this is very helpful !

A lot of good info there, looks like you did a good job. I need to read through the stages of work properly but it's good to know it's feasible.

So the rubber seals can be bought if need be, I suppose the other challenge she'll have is getting glass out of the frames without breaking it!

Ed

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To remove the glass was not that difficult as it is toughened it should take a lot to break it, that is if they are toughened which they should be.It is more trying not to break the corner bracket`s. Do not twist the frame to much, prise them carfully with a tool, they may have a putty type sealant from original. One thing i did forget to mention is to make sure that if a silicone sealant has been used to clean it back fully, every bit as the new sealant will not adhere to it very well.

 

I just sanded back with a 120 then 340 grade emery. I also used a drum sander in a drill or Dremmel is the best tool and cheap to buy now.

 

Some seals can be bought still but some cant, all depends on what profile they are but if you cannot find the identical profile then there will be others that will be as good.. I had to buy some over size and once fitted I cut back with a knife in situ. I needed a shallow channel type and had to get a taller version so when fitted they protruded 5mm or so above the frame which i trimmed back with a Stanley Knife.

 

There are laods of seal around, also use sealant when fiitting the rubber seals ;).

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We refurbed ours. The fixed panes didn't leak, but they leaked around the frame/cabin joint and through the hopper. The hopper seals can be replaced with closed cell neoprene draught excluder. We then cleaned all the old silicone off of ours and seated them on new window tape from Midland Chandlers. We had new wooded frames inside too, so could get a good purchase to pull them in with new stainless screws. Biggest problem was ensuring the frames were flat as they had all been damaged over the years being levered in and out, but patience resolved this. It was massively cheaper than new Windows!

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Hi Ed, I refurbished a set of ally windows a while ago. It saved a for tune bt was a pain to do, fiddly. I got the seals from Seals Direct and the cost was a total of around £85 to refurb them.

 

Have a look on this blog i done on them.

 

Page 3 on wards

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=76076&page=3

 

Not the same type as you are talking about but could be of help.

 

Use a good sealant like a Sikaflex as this way you can be sure to get a best job done.

 

All Best

 

Wayne

 

If you use Sikaflex it is unlikely you will ever be able to remove them again without damage. This usually means the frames get buckled. The proper way to do it is with the proper closed cell window tape. And as Cat says, don't overtighten them. Better to gently hand-tighten them and nip them up a bit if they do leak.

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