Jeanie920 Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 There is no light coming on when I turn the key. I turned it backwards first to warm the engine and there was a click and no light came on. When I turn the key forward to start the engine there is no light coming on. Anyone have any ideas what it Could be. Was fine when I started it and stopped it yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kendorr Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Sounds like the battery connection/s could have worked lose. Try making sure the bolts are tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Check the isolator, particularly if it is one of those cheap ones with the removable red key. Bang the key a few times with your hand. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Sounds like the battery connection/s could have worked lose. Try making sure the bolts are tight. Almost certainly a poor electrical connection but not necessarily on the battery. Quite possible though. Easily located by someone with a multimeter. (And a basic understanding of boat electrics!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacka Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Flat starter battery?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain_S Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) Depending on the engine type, it may also be the main engine fuse that has blown, or gone high resistance in its holder. e.t.a. Beta and Vetus are prone to this. Not sure abou others Edited December 3, 2016 by Iain_S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Or the multiway plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalslandia Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac of Cygnet Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Check the isolator, particularly if it is one of those cheap ones with the removable red key. Bang the key a few times with your hand. Tony That certainly worked several times for me, until I fitted a new one! Turning the isolator switch on and off several times would be the very first thing I would try. Hope it brings a sigh of relief! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Megson Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 this helps Not if the engine isn't turning over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 That certainly worked several times for me, until I fitted a new one! Turning the isolator switch on and off several times would be the very first thing I would try. Hope it brings a sigh of relief! When you turn the key to 'on' it pushes the contacts together which is why a smart tap on the top with your hand can sometimes improve the connection. Or turn it off and then bang it a few times and then turn back on - that would probably be more effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 We had a similar fault to this during the summer. Came to start one morning and no lights or noise from the instrument panel. At first thought flat battery, checked with the multimeter, voltage ok connections ok. Turned out to be the glow-plug relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 When you turn the key to 'on' it pushes the contacts together which is why a smart tap on the top with your hand can sometimes improve the connection. Or turn it off and then bang it a few times and then turn back on - that would probably be more effective. Or screw up a little ball of paper & put down the hole under the plastic key. If the contacts have overheated and melted the plastic the supporting plastic the paper ball, on a very temporary basis, pushes them back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 That certainly worked several times for me, until I fitted a new one! Turning the isolator switch on and off several times would be the very first thing I would try. Hope it brings a sigh of relief! Or screw up a little ball of paper & put down the hole under the plastic key. If the contacts have overheated and melted the plastic the supporting plastic the paper ball, on a very temporary basis, pushes them back together. Or even - take the switch entirely out of the 'loop' (even if only to test if it is the switch that is faulty) 1) Remove the two wires and bolt together the two ring terminals, or 2) Use a 'Jump-Lead' and bridge the two terminals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 Or screw up a little ball of paper & put down the hole under the plastic key. If the contacts have overheated and melted the plastic the supporting plastic the paper ball, on a very temporary basis, pushes them back together. Yup, good temporary fix . But OP, note that it's temporary just to get you home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted December 4, 2016 Report Share Posted December 4, 2016 2) Use a 'Jump-Lead' and bridge the two terminals. AKA an old screwdriver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanie920 Posted December 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Thanks everyone for your advice. I've tried taking the key out a few times and banging it but no luck. I think I will call someone out tomorrow because I haven't a clue about engines. I've had the boat 7 years now and never had a problem with the starter before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jak Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Sorry to hear this. I think all the advice given was most u will get online. But it's worked for many a boater. So let us know when ur sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Which engine do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain_S Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 On re-reading the OP, I'd tend to go for a fuse rather than a bad connection, unless it's one that has failed fully open circuit. Even with a high resistance connection, lights tend to come on, and go out when the starter is operated. The click when the heater plugs were operated is consistent with the relay dropping out as the fuse blows. If we knew what type of engine it was, someone will be able to suggest where the main engine fuse is likely to be. They can be a real pain to find, if it's an unfamiliar engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Nibble Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Sounds entirely like a poor connection to me but you could be right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 I have PMd and offered to have a look FOC if its in the south of the GU. I think its the only way we will get it sorted. I suspect instruments are needed. I await a reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeanie920 Posted December 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Hi Its a Beta 50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain_S Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 OK, The main engine fuse is located behind the starter motor. There is a covered in-line blade fuse holder attached to the wiring loom. Depending on the installation, it may have to be found by feel, as it's often tucked between the starter motor and the engine block. The fuse holder may not be in good condition : one I did had burnt the contacts quite extensively, and I suspect it was the heat rather than electrical overload which did in the fuse. If it is the fuse, it's surprisingly difficult to get a new one, as it's 40Amp , which is bigger than most car accessory places stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth E Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 Bit of a long shot this: My engine, a Vetus, is turned off by moving the key as far as possible to the left. It then needs to be moved to the centre position. If you remove the key when it's in the left position which is, rather stupidly, possible, the starter battery will be flat as a pancake within hours. I'm wondering if you maybe have this arrangement? If so, can you check the voltage of the starter battery? If not, do you have a jump lead to connect the positives of the starter and leisure batteries, and try again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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