Lister petter lpws4 starting problems

[bizzard]

Yesterday I went down to the boat, I basically stripped the fuel supply pipes down and remade every joint using new 'doughty washers' where necessary, changed the diesel filter renewing all 'O' rings in the process and checking that the old O rings were removed. Whilst fuel pipes were off I removed the valve covers and checked the operation of the valve rockers, no problems there all operating on the starter as expected to. Once everything was back together and primed the engine started, once it was running I cleaned everything down and checked for any sign of diesel leaks, when I left the boat everything was dry and the engine running as it always has, sweet as a nut!

However my problem is cold start so I went this morning to start it to see if I'd cured the problem. Prior to trying to start the engine I checked all my previous work for sign of any leaks that may have developed overnight, all dry. I didn't think it was going to start at all when I tried it, it was as if there was no fuel there at all, when it did eventually fire up the symptoms were exactly the same as previously, firing on two/three cylinders and 'hunting' until after a minute or two it settled down to run perfectly, any help would be much appreciated.

There is probably an air inlet manifold electric heater element on that engine for cold weather starting. Not cylinder glow plugs as such.

[Alan de Enfield]

Yesterday I went down to the boat, I basically stripped the fuel supply pipes down and remade every joint using new 'doughty washers' where necessary, changed the diesel filter renewing all 'O' rings in the process and checking that the old O rings were removed. Whilst fuel pipes were off I removed the valve covers and checked the operation of the valve rockers, no problems there all operating on the starter as expected to. Once everything was back together and primed the engine started, once it was running I cleaned everything down and checked for any sign of diesel leaks, when I left the boat everything was dry and the engine running as it always has, sweet as a nut!

However my problem is cold start so I went this morning to start it to see if I'd cured the problem. Prior to trying to start the engine I checked all my previous work for sign of any leaks that may have developed overnight, all dry. I didn't think it was going to start at all when I tried it, it was as if there was no fuel there at all, when it did eventually fire up the symptoms were exactly the same as previously, firing on two/three cylinders and 'hunting' until after a minute or two it settled down to run perfectly, any help would be much appreciated.

That could be the important part.

[Chambo]

Hi Bizzard, Lister did do an engine with a 'glo plug' in the inlet manifold but my version hasn't got it, thanks for the input.

Thanks Alan, I'll give that a try next time I go down, got to admit I'm getting pretty p'ed off with it now!

[BWM]

I'm not familiar with this engine but wondered how your injection pump is driven? If it has a coupling this might have slipped, giving incorrect injection timing, this can give similar symptoms.

[Chambo]

Hi BWM, this engine has individual injector pumps, these are driven via tappets and the camshaft. I have ruled out a problem with one of these due to the fact that once running the engine runs fine, no missing or 'lumpiness' etc, etc,. Thanks for your input.

[bizzard]

I suggest rigging up a simple jury rig. A can of diesel fuel suspended above the engine to supply it by gravity. A hole punched into the bottom of the can with say a Phillips screw driver with a length of flexible fuel tubing stuffed into it. The other end of it connected directly to the inlet port on the engines fuel filter. If the engine then starts and behaves then your fault is probably somewhere between the lift pump and the fuel tank. Either intake of air or partial blockage.

Edited December 4, 2016 by bizzard

[Chambo]

Thanks for everyone's input I have a couple more things to try now, I'll keep you posted!

[lazyboy]

It may be that the governor lever is sticking. On these engines the four fuel pumps are connected within the crankcase by a steel rack. When you stop the engine the governor rack is pushed forward toward the end cover to the stop position. It is possible that when re-energising the start solenoid the stop/run lever falls to the start position and the engine goes through its start up sequence but the governor rack has not moved and remains in the stopped position. This then stops any fuel going to the pumps and injectors. As the engine is cranking the governor lever eventually falls open and fuel flows.

[kalees]

Hi Chambo,

 

Appreciate that this is an old post be did you ever resolve this issue as I have a similar issue on a LPWS2?

 

Regards,

 

Keith.

[WotEver]

40 minutes ago, kalees said:

Hi Chambo,

 

Appreciate that this is an old post be did you ever resolve this issue as I have a similar issue on a LPWS2?

 

Regards,

 

Keith.

He’s not signed on for nearly 2 years so he’s unlikely to read your post unfortunately. Someone else might be along with a bright idea or two though.