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Single handed in locks - how to use bow line?


pamc2205

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I haven't braved downhill yet. I can't (I've tried a lot) walk on the gunnels on the clothed up section, nor, mostly, on the cloth batten - either the cloths are too tight, or there's an upright in the way - I just can't get enough purchase to be confident. I imagine Halsall isn't clothed up. So I am guessing that my only option will be to get the gates open, then haul the boat forward until the extended back end deck gets under the ladder. I shall try in the summer; I didn't fancy trying it for the first time last week. My first single handing uphill went brilliantly though and I had a magical trip, at the end of October.


Yes, I've seen John Jackson on Roach use the same method. I'll try it next time I'm locking on Scorpio as maybe the tumblehome means you don't get covered in slime.

Yes, I often walk around from stern to back end in narrow locks without getting slimed. Possibly have deeper gunnels (albeit on a slightly wider boat) than on a modern boat.

Edited by Chertsey
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  • 1 month later...

as a single hander your most important line is the centre line, bow line can be grabbed and secured once you have got the boat alongside a mooring/locklanding etc, however, if you have to walk off the back, walk off with your centreline in your hand, at least you have a chance of bollarding or tying your boat to anything.

 

It doesnt have to be pretty, it doesnt have to look cool, it is about using your centreline to do most of the work for you.

if your boat is still moving forwards, loop it round a bollard rather than attempt to pull it to a stop yourself.

as it comes into a lock, loop it round a bollard or gatepost to slow it down.

 

let the rope do the work for you.

practice as much as you can and revel in small achievements when it goes juts damn right.

one day you will do that when someone is watching!!

I agree, but don't forget to put the boat into Neutral before you hop off!!!!!

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I agree, but don't forget to put the boat into Neutral before you hop off!!!!!

I believe some people prefer to leave in in forward on tickover - especially when going downhill in a big boat. Not me though, as it depends on being able to get back on before opening the gates, going downhill. On the other hand, going uphill, it means the boat will make its own way out...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Up until about 1990 I think it was not all locks had ladders in them and one used ones own ladder, one didid, propped up from the boats roof to the lockside and climbed up and down that.

That would worry me, half way up the ladder and the boat moves!

Going uphill I enter the lock, climb the ladder while the boat is still going forward (but with the engine slowly in reverse) close the bottom gates and allow the boat to reverse back against the bottom gates (tiller turned to one side!).

Then I operate the top paddles nice and gently. As the water rises I can adjust the position of the boat on the throttle and gears, eventually allowing it to gently touch the top gate and when the water level equalises the boat will slowly open the top gate. Hopefully there is someone waiting to come down the lock and I can proceed, leaving the gate for them.

Going down, I use the centre rope, a couple of turns around a bollard but not tied, to control the position of the boat as the water empties. Open the bottom gates (lowering the paddles as I do), climb down the ladder and move the boat out, coming back to close the gates. I prefer not to haul the boat out using the line, too many chances of slipping and hurting myself!

So far this system seems to have worked well for me, usually there are people around willing to help, though sometimes persuading them not to help can be tricky. I will always offer to help but make sure that the people I am assisting know they are in charge and I will follow their instructions. The only times this needs amending is when you come across a stag party who have no idea what they are doing, are so drunk they've forgotten how to do it, or think they are supposed to open all paddles on all gates at the same time (I kid you not!) I spent half an hour with the two who were still almost sober (10am) talking them through lock operation. Thankfully they were going in the opposite direction to me but when I passed the boatyard they had hired from I did mention their lack of lock expertise - I have never seen Hire boat owners move so quickly!

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Yes, I often walk around from stern to back end in narrow locks without getting slimed. Possibly have deeper gunnels (albeit on a slightly wider boat) than on a modern boat.

Very much design dependent I'd suggest. I can't do that - not because of the gunnels, but because my builder went and put both the stern and the back end in the same place! ;)

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That would worry me, half way up the ladder and the boat moves!

Going uphill I enter the lock, climb the ladder while the boat is still going forward (but with the engine slowly in reverse) close the bottom gates and allow the boat to reverse back against the bottom gates (tiller turned to one side!).

Well, there we are. If I let my tiller go to one side, especially in wide locks, then it can go outwith the boat profile and catch on ladders and projections when going up or down, or on a gate when being hauled out (both of these have happened). So I have bungee tiller strings to keep it pointing forward and prevent this. We all have our methods!

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Well, there we are. If I let my tiller go to one side, especially in wide locks, then it can go outwith the boat profile and catch on ladders and projections when going up or down, or on a gate when being hauled out (both of these have happened). So I have bungee tiller strings to keep it pointing forward and prevent this. We all have our methods!

It's good practice since it will (for example) protect the rudder from fouling the back gates or, worse, getting trapped by them. However, to follow it, you must ensure that the tiller bar isn't long enough to project beyond the side of the hull where it might foul the lock side. A shorter tiller may not be practical for everyone though.

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It's good practice since it will (for example) protect the rudder from fouling the back gates or, worse, getting trapped by them. However, to follow it, you must ensure that the tiller bar isn't long enough to project beyond the side of the hull where it might foul the lock side. A shorter tiller may not be practical for everyone though.

I have a very short boat (27ft), so it never gets near the gates when going up or down a lock. But in wide locks, it can swing diagonally, thus bringing the tiller out of the boat profile.

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I have to turn the rudder to reverse back against the cill in some shorter locks, e.g on the BCN.

 

The tiller bar gets taken off first and laid on the cabintop so it won't catch on the lock wall as we descend.

 

 

I very much doubt the cabintop would catch on the lock wall even without the tiller bar laid on it...

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  • 1 month later...

I,ve just finished my 3rd season of single handed operation of 60' Alchemy my first boat.  I started from the outset single locking after the previous owner and guru dave mills of braunston showed me the ropes through hillmorton locks at rugby. He advised me dead slow is best, walk her in with the centre rope, and walk her out again. Cabin roof is not a deck in our opinion. Mines totally uncluttered and always 2 centre ropes. I,ve only had two issues both at buckby locks, one when i doubled up going down with a speedy single locker in a hurry that left me slimed in green stuff, and the other when returning up and walking her in suddenly found the slim aluminium footbridge that i hadnt noticed before. I just dropped the rope back on the roof, climbed down the ladder picked it up and up the ladder again. She was just drifting slowly so no probs. I,m 63 yrs old and scared of heights, so slimy ladders are not my thing. Still i feel good when i get it smooth and right.

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