Jump to content

Oil Change - Engine not starting anymore


BoatNoob

Featured Posts

You've probably knocked something like a wire or critical connector. Of course, you don't know what wire/connection you've disrupted, because if you did then you'd not be posting on the internet!!! But have a good look around, especially the starter motor wires and the fuel cutoff if its an electric solenoid (I'm going to assume inboard diesel, even though you don't say).

 

Does it turn over but not start? Does it not turn over? etc

 

PS An engine doesn't need oil to run - it could run without it. It needs the oil for longevity of running though.....so its not the oil change itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have recently put some sythetic oil in my diesel engine (0.40 cl of Mobil New Life).

Upon realising my error, I have tried to pump out the oil and replaced it with mineral oil.

I have pumped out about 1.5l and now the engine won't start.

 

In the attached picture you can see the pump on the left(who looks like at tap).

 

Where did I "done goofed"?

post-24704-0-43744000-1474739985_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like it's drowning...?

Should I insist or am I damaging the engine?

Video coming next

It sounds like it's drowning...?

Should I insist or am I damaging the engine?

Video coming next

You've probably knocked something like a wire or critical connector. Of course, you don't know what wire/connection you've disrupted, because if you did then you'd not be posting on the internet!!! But have a good look around, especially the starter motor wires and the fuel cutoff if its an electric solenoid (I'm going to assume inboard diesel, even though you don't say).

 

Does it turn over but not start? Does it not turn over? etc

 

PS An engine doesn't need oil to run - it could run without it. It needs the oil for longevity of running though.....so its not the oil change itself.

Could it be the fuel filter I have changed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all please answer Paul's question. I repeat it:-

 

Does the starter turn the engine over but it wont starts OR does the starter refuse to spin?

 

I can not see any form of stop control on that injector pump but it may be under the large cooling hose. I can see a blue hexagon bolt in what looks like a banjo just below the the copper fuel pipe. If you look closely you can just about see what looks lie a tiny section of brown or red wire beside and below it. This may be an electric stop solenoid so look for a wire around that area that is not connected to anything.

 

IF this is an energise to run solenoid a wire off would certainly give those symptoms and it looks as if a fair bit of rag cleaning has been done in that area.

 

Energise to run means that to stop the engine you just turn the ignition off like a car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could it be the fuel filter I have changed?

 

More likely than the oil change!! Air in the fuel lines failure to bleed the system??

 

Where did that come form, I can't see it in the OPs posts but agree that is more likely if he did change the filter

 

Edited to say - I see now.

Edited by Tony Brooks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Could it be the fuel filter I have changed?

 

 

Are you asking if you've inadvertently changed the fuel filter rather than the oil filter? Or saying that during the oil change (hopefully including the filter), you've also changed the fuel filter?

 

It doesn't sound like it"s drowning anymore. Should I insist?

 

This is a video of a running engine, was it filmed after you changed the oil, therefore the problem is now fixed? Or sometime in the past?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The black thing low down and partly obscured by the oil drain pump looks like the oil filter to me. The fuel filter is further back and obscured by the upright the oil drain pump appears to be tied to. The fuel filter has a blue top section and a silver or grey filter part in the middle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you asking if you've inadvertently changed the fuel filter rather than the oil filter? Or saying that during the oil change (hopefully including the filter), you've also changed the fuel filter?

 

This is a video of a running engine, was it filmed after you changed the oil, therefore the problem is now fixed? Or sometime in the past?

I have first changed the fuel filter (Fram C1191PL) and then did an oil change.

I assumed I screwed up the oil change since it was the first time I did it.

And yes, the video was taken after I changed the oil.

Edited by BoatNoob
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It probably only needs bleeding.

 

 

1. find the lift pump. If its mechanical find the priming lever.

 

2. Look at the first photo. The long copper pipe that runs beside the oil drain pump ends in a banjo union on the injector pump by a small hexagon headed screw with a slot in it. Loosen this screw a few turns.

 

3. Turn on ignition/ operate priming lever as appropriate until peer fuel and no air bubbles come out of the screw hole.

 

4 tighten screw.

 

5. Follow the three blue injector pipes up to the injectors and loosen the large injector unions about half to one turn.

 

6. Spin engine on starter at full throttle until fuel drips or spits from each union.

 

7. Tighten unions and the engine should start.

 

8. If not inspect exhaust while cranking. Only a few wisps of smoke = re-bleed or pus the stop cable back in (you probably do not have a stop cable). Loads of white fumes = you have fuel so the problem is something else.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The black thing low down and partly obscured by the oil drain pump looks like the oil filter to me. The fuel filter is further back and obscured by the upright the oil drain pump appears to be tied to. The fuel filter has a blue top section and a silver or grey filter part in the middle.

Where the filter is

post-24704-0-15098600-1474742530_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where the filter is

And the silvery cylinder thing to the left of that rusty angle iron looks, I'm certain it is, the electric fuel pump. The nut on the top is a bayonet fitting cap. Inside is a miniature cartridge filter which aligns inside with the fuel input port. This filter is very often unknown about or neglected and is often the cause of breakdowns. I went out to a boat broken down with this wee filter bunged up with muck only a month ago on the river Lea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With that pump the fuel system is almost certainly self bleeding.

Looks like 3 cylinder Mitsubishi engine. The one I went out to was a 4 cylinder 33hp Mitsubishi, self bleeding, manual pull stop.

Edited by bizzard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like 3 cylinder Mitsubishi engine. The one I went out to was a 4 cylinder 33hp Mitsubishi, self bleeding, manual pull stop.

 

The reason I said it MAY not be self bleeding is because I could see no easy way fro the electric pump to purge air from the low pressure system. Often the self bleeders have an extra leak off pipe from the inlet union on the injector pump, I can't see one. I agree the injector pump will probably self bleed given enough churning on the starter but to save stressing the battery and starter motor I would suggest its best practice to manually bleed it. Especially as it is so easy with an electric lift pump.

 

Anyway, if he followed my instructions I think the OP would have been running a couple of hours ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.