Paint (undercoat / finish coat)

[Mohsen]

Hello ladies & gents

Our new boat is going to arrive covered in 2 pack high build zinc phosphate, whatever that means.

I'm not exactly sure what would be the best undercoat and finish coat to go on top of that. Im guessing something with a polyureathene base.

Any advice on particular manufactures or paint systems that would suit a brush/roller method.

Thanks in advance

 

[pquinn]

I had very bad results with rylard a couple of years ago and it was not down to lack of prep, it was also impossible to keep a wet edge and i was not painting in hot conditions. I think i will go with jotun or something else next time.

[Mohsen]

Why Jotun ?

[pquinn]

Because i used it on the decks when i was doing the rest of the boat and it has lasted brilliant even in spots that hold water like the gas lockers. Its also what they put on many ships and oil rigs.

[nastypoker]

Not tried on my boat yet but I use Jotun at work in horrible environments and they offer some really good paint solutions.

 

I am looking at using Jotamastic 87 primer and Hardtop XP topcoat.

[Johny London]

I'm about to paint my boat - currently in grey primer so also need undercoat and top coat - rather than start another thread thought I might as well ad here - any more paint recommendations please? Tips such as thinners etc? Quantities? (I have a 62ft cruiser stern)

A quick look on ebay brings up "Tekaloid" any good? International?

Only want to do it the once (for the foreseeable anyway!).

[Mike Tee]

Craftmaster Paint - not cheap, but if you went the cheap route you'd probably be doing it twice. Also it worked well using roller followed by brush. And the masking tape I got from them at the same time was excellent.

[pquinn]

I used fine line tape that i got from motor factors. Good stuff, doesnt bleed through. And as many will suggest on here to get some good quality brushes like purdy.

[Dav and Pen]

Temac Paints from Hull are very good and do a complete range. Talk to their tech people to find what's best to use over the epoxy base.

For many years I always used Dulux Coach paint mixed for brushing on my Narrow Boats and Ronnie Hough extolled the Dulux Weathershield.

David

[dmr]

Probably best to use a paint designed for painting boats.

I get on well with International paints (Toplac).

People are also saying good things about the newish Symphony paints, I have just ordered a tin.

There is also Craftmaster which is without doubt excellent but is not my favourite (except for the superb varnish and Raddle), trouble is it was formulated by and for Phil Speight who is a master craftsman and bumbling amateurs like myself find it a bit tricky to use. I suspect Toplac is formulated to be a bit easier to use by mortals.

 

................Dave

[Neil Smith]

I used Jotun pilot 2 which is single pack, it is not high gloss but I like it this way,if you want high gloss go for the two pack, very good prices and service from them. I would buy 10 litres of under coat and 10 of gloss to give 2 coats of each, my boats 58 foot and I have some left over.

 

Neil.

[MissMax]

Am I the only one using Bitumen ?

[cuthound]

Am I the only one using Bitumen ?

Above the gunwales, probably yes. ☺

[Johny London]

I found the SML Marine Paints website and was surprised how much cheaper they were than ebay. They stock just Jotun, and I spoke to a very helpful chap and got everything ordered in one hit, including thinners, brushes, rollers, the lot.

He did advise me to use Pilot 2 rather than the 2 pack though - because we don't know what the existing primer is and 2 pack will mess it right up if its just the standard stuff.

I think I over bought on the quantities - 10l primer, 10 litres Oxford blue and 10 litres Agate grey, about double what I was expecting, but I would have had to have 10l of grey anyway because 5l is matt for the roof and 5l gloss for paneling and other features. It was not expensive though so what the hell. I don't want to run out while working and there are all the other bits to do (aside from roof and sides) such as bow, stern, lockers etc etc. It's going to be a mad dash in the last window of opportunity before the weather turns, so wish me luck! I've got a pal helping me for three days so might get it done!

[tom&chez]

i can highly recomend Rust Oleum paint it is a undercoat and top coat in one doing my roof with it a great finish delighted with the results

[Johny London]

I've now applied two coats of Jotun Vinyguard Silvergrey 88 (as undercoat). It's a vinyl (soft) finish coating that dilutes with proper paint thinners (not white spirit) and went on well enough with roller and on the important bits roller then dry brush. I've just started with the top coat (Pilot 2) which seems to be a normal oil based paint.

I'll be using Conseal for the roof - its a matt finish acrylic. That's if I can get it all done before the weather turns!

Will report back with results.

[Arthur Brown]

Whatever paint system you select BUY IT ALL at one time. An old friend retired to build boat for sea use, He did the steel work, then the primer, then the undercoat but by the time he got round to the top coat the whole paint system had been discontinued and he had to rip it ll off and start again. The "project" my still be sitting somewhere on the coast. Maybe now it's decomposing faster than he's completing it!

[Nbgreyhound]

As Arthur says the most important thing is to buy the complete range from one make so that it's comparable and sits well together.

 

International is brilliant paint system to use can't fault it. Repainted my boat by hand this summer and the finish is great. Also count how much microns u need of paint on your boat for protection and make sure you get it on!!!!!

 

Epifanes is also good for their deck paint on roofs etc

[OldPeculier]

I used Tractol 329 http://www.smithandallan.com/products/tractol-paint/1447-tractol-329-formerly-be27-single-pack-machinery-enamel-all-colours/

 

With a Tractol primer. Very easy to use and quite a bit cheaper than some.

[Traveller]

Temac Paints from Hull are very good and do a complete range. Talk to their tech people to find what's best to use over the epoxy base.

For many years I always used Dulux Coach paint mixed for brushing on my Narrow Boats and Ronnie Hough extolled the Dulux Weathershield.

David

+1 for Weathershield.

[Johny London]

Jotun - if you look at the sml paints website, you will see that there are rather a lot of different kinds of top coat and primers, so I think ones experience would very much depend on the exact product.

My experience is this: I really like the "conceal" it is a thinners based paint (as in cellulose like how cars used to be) so does dry a bit too quickly if its warm, but you won't need more than two coats and the slightly satin (its actually fairly glossy) finish looks good just rollered on. It is also suitable for just going over bare metal (they say) and you can re coat without prep as the solvent always reactivates the coat underneath. They call it Acrylic, but its nothing like water based or owt.

The pilot 2 - hmmm... took 4 coats and still not great. Its a traditional oil paint so nothing hi tec about it, rather soft, takes ages to dry and prone to blooming if chilly - despite that it still manages to become unworkable if you don't brush in the second you have rollered it - infact I had to use Owatrol oil as on my own I can't do both things at once.

If I had my time again I'd just do everything in rollered on conceal, its tidy, quick and I think hard enough for decks etc (time will tell).

Jotun do several top coats though as I already mentioned, and there was another that sounded similar to this which might also be good.

 

Thinking about it, I'm going to ditch the oil based stuff and go over it in the conceal, when I can... though I do know the risks of putting cellulose over oil based

[bag 'o' bones]

Hello ladies & gents

 

Our new boat is going to arrive covered in 2 pack high build zinc phosphate, whatever that means.

 

I'm not exactly sure what would be the best undercoat and finish coat to go on top of that. Im guessing something with a polyureathene base.

 

Any advice on particular manufactures or paint systems that would suit a brush/roller method.

 

Thanks in advance

 

The best top coat is polyurethane 2 pack.

 

Considering the existing base paint is 2 pack it would be madness not to carry through with the same system.

 

Regardless what others might try to argue 2 pack is superior to any of the older single pack systems.

[DHutch]

I must ask

• What do you after in terms of finish/gloss level.
• Durability/life expectations?
• How are you going to be applying it?
• What colours are you planning on?

 

###

 

 

 

+1 for Weathershield.

 

I have used Dulux 'Weathershield' on wooden window frame, both the DIY outlet version and the 'Trade' version (thicker and in larger tin sizes) with good effect. However I would not use it on a boat, and having used the 'Metalshield' on parts of the digger, the phosphate primer and the gloss, I must say I found both awful. I expect it will hold rust back for a long time, but it went on worse than any paint I have ever used, is seriously soft, blistered in places, and after only one winter is gone off-colour already which even for red is not acceptable.

 

For painting generic steel work, I find Blackfriar QD90 (which appears to be turning into Blackfriar 'Quick Drying Metal Paint' but otherwise the same) very good. However the colours are quite limited.

 

We use a two part polyurethane paint from Sherwin Williams; Acrolon C137v2 (Formerly Leighs Paint; Resistex C137v2) and the accicated undercoat which is largely the same product, this gives good life and goes on well with a 4inch roller, we are very happy with it, recoating every 8 years for the last 26. I am sure it will work as well for you as us, however it is too soft to hold a high mirror gloss, so if that is your aim it is not for you. There are many other two pack gloss finishes.

 

 

Daniel

[Traveller]

 

I have used Dulux 'Weathershield' on wooden window frame, both the DIY outlet version and the 'Trade' version (thicker and in larger tin sizes) with good effect. However I would not use it on a boat, and having used the 'Metalshield' on parts of the digger, the phosphate primer and the gloss, I must say I found both awful. I expect it will hold rust back for a long time, but it went on worse than any paint I have ever used, is seriously soft, blistered in places, and after only one winter is gone off-colour already which even for red is not acceptable.

 

Can only speak from personal experience and have been using Weathershield (oil based) on my last two boats. Paint has proven itself to be robust, easy to apply with an acceptable finish and reasonably long lasting. The brand continues to sit at the top of my paint tree.

[Johny London]

An update:

I got on well with the Jotun "conceal" on the roof and decks - it's thinners based as in cellulose like old car paint. Dries a bit quick but I liked the rollered finish for these areas as the paint is sheen not full gloss anyway. It seems to set nice and hard. Two coats and you are done.

The Pilot 2 topcoat - I didn't like this - sticky to paint with and went off too quickly to brush after rolling (was working on my own, small sections at a time) even though it seems to be just a bog standard oil. I added some Owatrol and that helped, but then the paint didn't cover as well - 4 coats and still not good. It's far too soft a finish, you can scratch it with your hands. Only did a couple of areas so as I have given up for the winter now will have a rethink next year.

Oh well... I believe the undercoat is waterproof.