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Alternator regulator setting 13.8V or 14.5V


mross

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The regulator on my alternator is set to 13.8V. When I end a cruise and go on shore power it takes hours before the battery is fully charged. Would it be a good idea to use the 14.5V setting or would this cause damage to the batteries when cruising for eight hours a day? Would a battery controller be worth fitting? Is Adverc still the best choice?

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Trojan T105s 6V x 6 for a 12V boat

 

OK thanks for the info. I would be temped to push the voltage up to 14.7V as the Trojans like a higher voltage

 

ETA At 13.5 with Trojan that is not going to do much good that is the float charge voltage. The recommended Bulk voltage is 14.82 so 14.7V is getting into an area where it will take some charge

Edited by Geo
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Definitely put it up to the 14.5 setting. 13.8 is far too low for T105s. Even more would better. Just bear in mind that T105s do use water so check them every few months (and get a 5 litre container of deionised water!)

 

The Niehoff A2-102 will go to 14.7, unfortunately it won't do 14.8

I'll put it up. The batteries are regularly charged from the mains. I do check them but have never had to top them up in the year I have owned the boat. Thanks for all your advice.

 

What bulkcharge voltage is your mains charger set to?

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I do check them but have never had to top them up in the year I have owned the boat

 

That's because you've been undercharging them. It would be worth checking the specific gravity when they are fully charged. If it's low, it will be because there is some sulphation and you may need to do an equalise charge.

 

I'm not sure if you are "into" measuring specific gravities but if not I can recommend one of those refractometer types from eBay.

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I'll check the charger settings in a few days. I'm far away at present. I have a spare regulator and will see if that has the same choices of voltage. The batteries do not have the holes punched in the label so I don't know the date of manufacture. They perform well. It's a Sterling 1230 charger and I think only the duration is adjustable (1,2,3 or 4 hrs)

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Trojans like 14.8v, and sometimes maybe a little more.

 

I have an Adverc and would really struggle without it. I made a small modification so that the voltage adjustment is accessible from outside the box. In summer when we are cruising most days I drop the voltage to about 14.6 to minimise water loss and hopefully extend the life of the batteries (Trojans) a bit. In winter we cruise less and keeping a full charge is harder, I set the voltage at 14.8 but if we are really struggling with full charge I put it up to 15 for a week or two.

 

...............Dave

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I'll check the charger settings in a few days. I'm far away at present. I have a spare regulator and will see if that has the same choices of voltage. The batteries do not have the holes punched in the label so I don't know the date of manufacture. They perform well. It's a Sterling 1230 charger and I think only the duration is adjustable (1,2,3 or 4 hrs)

 

 

Do you have any idea what your SoC each morning?

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I'll check the charger settings in a few days. I'm far away at present. I have a spare regulator and will see if that has the same choices of voltage. The batteries do not have the holes punched in the label so I don't know the date of manufacture. They perform well. It's a Sterling 1230 charger and I think only the duration is adjustable (1,2,3 or 4 hrs)

Would the charger be this one http://www.sp-shop.co.uk/Sterling-Power-ProCharge-Ultra-12V-30A-Battery-Charger-PN-PCU1230-3-OUT.html

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Well, I have a Link 10 monitor and it goes down to about 80% after a night off grid. But how accurate that is who knows? biggrin.png That's running a 12V fridge and charging a laptop and a pair of radios. 2 x 230V lamps and 4 x twin 8W fluorescent caravan type roof lights.


It is this one http://www.jgtech.com/pdf/Instructions_CED_english_german.pdf

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If my maths is working you have a 12V bank with a C20 capacity of 675Ah. You use about 20% per day according to the Link 10, 135Ah. So that is an average of 5.625Ah per hour.

 

My gut is saying the Link 10 is not giving you true information on the state of charge.

 

I would suggest that it would be a good idea to take the SG reading + voltage readings and compare them against the SoC.

 

I like Nick have a feeling you are undercharging, Do you have any idea what the voltage is and the charge current is when you believe the charger has fully charged the batteries?

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That's because you've been undercharging them. It would be worth checking the specific gravity when they are fully charged. If it's low, it will be because there is some sulphation and you may need to do an equalise charge.

 

I'm not sure if you are "into" measuring specific gravities but if not I can recommend one of those refractometer types from eBay.

I do have one of those and will do some readings next week.

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I do have one of those and will do some readings next week.

 

Looking forward to the answers. If the charger is set to 14.4V suggest that it is increased to 14.8V and the equalisation time increased to maximum

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Definitely put it up to the 14.5 setting. 13.8 is far too low for T105s. Even more would better. Just bear in mind that T105s do use water so check them every few months (and get a 5 litre container of deionised water!)

I check and top mine up with every oil/filter change, 250 engine hours.

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At over 14v charge voltage you will need to check the electrolyte level and accept that topping up does become a necessity

 

If you had said over 14.2 or 14.4 I might agree with you.

Edited by Geo
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Well, I have a Link 10 monitor and it goes down to about 80% after a night off grid. But how accurate that is who knows? :D That's running a 12V fridge and charging a laptop and a pair of radios. 2 x 230V lamps and 4 x twin 8W fluorescent caravan type roof lights.

It is this one http://www.jgtech.com/pdf/Instructions_CED_english_german.pdf

Do you take note of the battery voltage before starting the engine in the morning?

 

Assuming little load, this can give an accurate state of charge reading. Try not to let it go below 12.2-12.3 volts.

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Not really. I think I had better start a record of things like that. I look at often but can't recall the actual number, but it has always been above 12. I check the Link after getting underway, just to ensure the alternator is charging. I went few weeks with a failed alternator and used the generator when the 'Ah defecit' built up.

 

I've bought a very good Durite hydrometer with built-in thermometer so I will take a set of accurate readings from my Trojans in anticipation of some excellent advice here.

Edited by mross
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Not really. I think I had better start a record of things like that. I look at often but can't recall the actual number, but it has always been above 12. I check the Link after getting underway, just to ensure the alternator is charging. I went few weeks with a failed alternator and used the generator when the 'Ah defecit' built up.

 

I've bought a very good Durite hydrometer with built-in thermometer so I will take a set of accurate readings from my Trojans in anticipation of some excellent advice here.

 

It is a good idea as it gives a history and can be helpful when you think there is a problem

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