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Blacking near West London


Lizzy

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I need to have my boat blacked somewhere in West London. This is the first time, so no experience. I hadn't realised that there are long booking lead times, so am struggling a bit to have it done any time soon. I have now got a quote from High Line Iver for £1740 for blackimg and £480 for 8 2.5kg anodes plus VAT. For an extra £200 they'll make it 4kg anodes. The boat is 60ft and I am in a marina most of the time.

 

This is a lot more expensive than I had heard before, but they are able to do it soon and I could stay on boad during the time, which is important.

 

Does this sound reasonable to you? Any secret tip for a cheaper place which is not full up well into 2017?

 

The quote includes blacking the base plate. Do I want or need this?

 

Do I want the bigger anodes?

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I should add that the boat was advertised as having been blacked in 2015. i bought the boat in June and the survey said that blackng should be done. Also the boat only has 2 anodes either side. That's why I'd like to have it done soon.

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I would say 2 anodes a side is fine for 40ft don't black your baseplate and how much!!!!

That's madness for blacking I would say. I'd be looking for under £10 per foot plus any cranage costs if necessary. Unfortunately there's so many boats now that yards can almost hike their prices because people will pay it, because they have to.

As an aside in the Midlands you can hire a diy dock for about 200 quid a week and with the cost of paint have it done for under 300 quid.

Regards

Dan

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Midlands :

 

£10-£15 per foot + VAT. Call it £17 per foot on average. Without base-plate blacked, without anodes replaced.

 

I was also quoted (by another yard) over £2000 for a 45 foot NB and that they would lift out, do the job and drop back in all in the same day.

 

Its worth paying a bit extra to get a proper job done.

Ideally it should be a 7 day job allowing for cleaning off, a day drying between each of the 3 coats (some places are only 1 or 2 coats) and a final day drying before going back in the water.

In perfect conditions it is sometimes possible to apply 2 coats in one day.

 

The 'season' for blacking is fairly short, as many 'proper blacking folks' will not black in the Autumn. Winter or Spring as the damp air causes adhesion problems, I had to book 12 months in advance to get a June 'slot'.

If the Yard has a covered, heated, dry-dock they may well extend their 'blacking window'.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Hi,

 

Note it is a 60ft boat, in a marina most of the time, (hook up available?) 10mm base plate? and bottom plate being blacked.

 

Problems in the marina with stray electrical currents?

 

Anodes - can't win with these, I bought my boat 10 years ago, a Surveyor said anodes down the sides would be good, so I had 4 fitted down the sides of a 48ft boat, had a hull survey in April this year, surveyor said I had too many anodes and this would cause problems with the blacking around the water line...

 

My blacking in April (sides only) was about £12 per foot. Darren at the Cowroast was helpful.

 

Blacking the bottom - awful job- hence the quote, with a 10 mm bottom it should not be necessary.

 

Anodes - up to you if the boat is in a marina for long periods they may be useful.

 

I thinks it's better to go for a cheaper quote and black the sides every 2 to 3 years.

 

Make sure the boat is left out of the water for 2 to three days after blacking to allow the paint to dry.

 

I have followed this regime with 2 boats and find that there has been no deterioration in the steelwork on either boat.

 

The further you get the work done out of London the cheaper it will be.

 

Hope that helps,

 

L

Edited by LEO
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Midlands :

 

£10-£15 per foot + VAT. Call it £17 per foot on average. Without base-plate blacked, without anodes replaced.

 

I was also quoted (by another yard) over £2000 for a 45 foot NB and that they would lift out, do the job and drop back in all in the same day.

 

 

OP's 60' boat @ £17/ft would be £1020, but High Line's quote includes the base plate which would give almost double the square footage for their £1740 quote. It's fine if you've got the time and energy to do the job yourself, plus if there are yards available at the drop of a hat for peanuts, but the quote she has does not sound out of the way to me. 2 anodes per side are not offering a 60' boat a lot of protection, but it does depend upon several factors as to whether she does need more.

 

Tam

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I use Uxbridge Boat Centre, a few miles further North than Iver.

 

I have always done the painting myself, and found the staff at Uxbridge to be very helpful with advice on what to do and what paint etc is needed.

 

It costs me about £350. to put my 50ft boat on blocks for a week in their yard area undercover. And about another £2-300 to do the job, once you have hired their pressure washer and bought all the paint etc. It is not a difficult job in terms of the technical skill required, but it is quite hard work physically, and so a helping hand can be useful on a couple of days, although I have done it all myself on some years. Any additional jobs that come up such as welding, anodes etc can be negotiated through the week.

 

Alternatively they will also do the painting for you as well, although I have no idea how much that will cost.

 

Simon

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OP's 60' boat @ £17/ft would be £1020, but High Line's quote includes the base plate which would give almost double the square footage for their £1740 quote.

 

Good point and well made.

 

Maybe the OP should ask them for the price without the base-plate included - it may well be in the more 'normal' range.

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I'm on a river and there's no 240v currents floating about, if I had it in a marina with lots of dodgy shorelines I would.

 

????

 

Methinks you are mixing up earth-connection-induced galvanic currents with galvanic erosion of dissimilar metals. Sacrificial anodes are fitted to steel hulls because the anode is less noble than the hull and associated fittings and so it will sacrifice itself by dissolving instead of your hull. You don't need any mains (or even 12V) for that to happen.

 

Tony

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That may have saved me numourous pound notes this weekend then. There's still some 'meat' on the ones I have, fitted them,must be eight years ago. Hence my question.

 

It is normally suggested that the correct time to replace anodes is when they are down to 1/3rd remaining.

Below that they are not efficient, and most of 'the goodness' has gone.

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