Sir Percy Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) Hi, I'm installing some skylights (polycarbonate sheet), which will be bedded in using butyl tape. There will be a 'channel' between the edge of the sheet and the recess into the deck (epoxied) which I plan to fill with sealant like Sikaflex. I'm not looking forward to this last part though as it's just messy to work with. Having worked with putty on another job, I'm wondering whether that would do just as well to fill in the channel. Cheap, easy to work, bog standard old putty. Paint on top to match the deck. Any thoughts? Thanks! Edited August 18, 2016 by Sir Percy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W+T Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Sikaflex every time, no question, just have acetone at hand to clean up the messy bits you mite/will get. Its just like using a silicone really, easy, finger it in with a damp finger............ooooeeeerrrrrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave moore Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Sikka. No contest. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Percy Posted August 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 That's fine, but why? What's the advantage that Sika has that makes it worth the hassle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taslim Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 That's fine, but why? What's the advantage that Sika has that makes it worth the hassle? 'Bog standard' putty is oil baced and is made to 'like' wood and bond well enough to glass. It may anoy Polly C. and it hardens over time. Why Sikaflex? Answe's in the name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloomsberry Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Sikaflex has been the answer to my prayers when it comes to fixing leaks. Does tend to stick to anything though so it's a good idea to wear gloves when using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Percy Posted August 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Fair dos. Thanks for replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) We built a little cabin boat when we were youths, and used ordinary putty for a couple of jobs. It didn't work well and we ended up using a marine sealant of the day, the name of which escapes me now (just remembered it was called "sealastik."). Sikaflex and suchlike are good bits of modern kit, and should do a good job. Edited August 18, 2016 by Guest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Animal Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 Sikaflex every time, no question, just have acetone at hand to clean up the messy bits you mite/will get. Its just like using a silicone really, easy, finger it in with a damp finger............ooooeeeerrrrrr I would just add that white spirit is adequate for cleaning off excess Sikaflex (before it's set) and easier/cheaper to source. If there is still excess Sikaflex after it's set, it can be carefully pared back with a sharp knife or chisel, or can be sanded to produce a nice matt effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Percy Posted August 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 I would just add that white spirit is adequate for cleaning off excess Sikaflex (before it's set) and easier/cheaper to source. If there is still excess Sikaflex after it's set, it can be carefully pared back with a sharp knife or chisel, or can be sanded to produce a nice matt effect. I read advice somewhere, to resist cleaning up while still 'wet', and to razor / sand off afterwards. I'll try white spirit on any small smears. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Animal Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 I read advice somewhere, to resist cleaning up while still 'wet', and to razor / sand off afterwards. I'll try white spirit on any small smears. Cheers. Well, yes, it can end up making more mess by trying to clean before it sets. The best thing I've found is to use white spirit dampened paper towel (kitchen roll or toilet paper) and remove small amounts at a time, changing the paper often. If it can be done neatly, it's less work to get it off before it's set. I've used at least six or seven boxes (of 12 tubes per box) on our boat restoration, and I'm still learning. Try a bit on a similar joint on something that doesn't matter and do one bit without wiping off any excess, and another with wiping. If you succeed in getting a neat joint with white spirit, that's the way to go. Leave it for at least a day (longer if more than a few mm thick) before trying to pare and/or sand back any excess on an uncleaned joint. Expect some waste. Some applications I find that I wipe off at least 50% of what I put on, but it is sometimes necessary to have some excess to make sure it gets into all the nooks and crannies so that water can't get in there. UK Sealants have a good range of the different types and colours, will give advice and dispatch very quickly if it's in stock, Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeToScarlet Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 CT1 is another good sealant, and the adhesive version is bombproof. Sets underwater, used it to stop a boat from sinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 I think that I would mask that job either side of the joint with masking tape, take off excess and then pull the tape away before the sealer sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazza Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 I think that I would mask that job either side of the joint with masking tape, take off excess and then pull the tape away before the sealer sets. This is an excellent way of getting crisp clean straight lines. Just to add, run your dampened digit down it before pulling the tape off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Percy Posted August 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 I think that I would mask that job either side of the joint with masking tape, take off excess and then pull the tape away before the sealer sets. Yes, I'll be doing this - need to have the bead flush with the edge of the polycarbonate, and I won't want to sand off that. This is an excellent way of getting crisp clean straight lines. Just to add, run your dampened digit down it before pulling the tape off. Yes, washing-up liquid, maybe wetted down. Careful now, don't want to set W + T off again. Think I've got it all now, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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