Jump to content

Sikaflex...or putty?


Featured Posts

Hi,

 

I'm installing some skylights (polycarbonate sheet), which will be bedded in using butyl tape. There will be a 'channel' between the edge of the sheet and the recess into the deck (epoxied) which I plan to fill with sealant like Sikaflex.

 

I'm not looking forward to this last part though as it's just messy to work with.

 

Having worked with putty on another job, I'm wondering whether that would do just as well to fill in the channel. Cheap, easy to work, bog standard old putty. Paint on top to match the deck.

 

post-18474-0-00440400-1471541560_thumb.jpg

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks!

Edited by Sir Percy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sikaflex every time, no question, just have acetone at hand to clean up the messy bits you mite/will get. Its just like using a silicone really, easy, finger it in with a damp finger............ooooeeeerrrrrr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's fine, but why? What's the advantage that Sika has that makes it worth the hassle?

'Bog standard' putty is oil baced and is made to 'like' wood and bond well enough to glass. It may anoy Polly C. and it hardens over time.

 

Why Sikaflex? Answe's in the name.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We built a little cabin boat when we were youths, and used ordinary putty for a couple of jobs. It didn't work well and we ended up using a marine sealant of the day, the name of which escapes me now (just remembered it was called "sealastik.").

Sikaflex and suchlike are good bits of modern kit, and should do a good job.

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sikaflex every time, no question, just have acetone at hand to clean up the messy bits you mite/will get. Its just like using a silicone really, easy, finger it in with a damp finger............ooooeeeerrrrrr

I would just add that white spirit is adequate for cleaning off excess Sikaflex (before it's set) and easier/cheaper to source. If there is still excess Sikaflex after it's set, it can be carefully pared back with a sharp knife or chisel, or can be sanded to produce a nice matt effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would just add that white spirit is adequate for cleaning off excess Sikaflex (before it's set) and easier/cheaper to source. If there is still excess Sikaflex after it's set, it can be carefully pared back with a sharp knife or chisel, or can be sanded to produce a nice matt effect.

 

I read advice somewhere, to resist cleaning up while still 'wet', and to razor / sand off afterwards. I'll try white spirit on any small smears. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I read advice somewhere, to resist cleaning up while still 'wet', and to razor / sand off afterwards. I'll try white spirit on any small smears. Cheers.

Well, yes, it can end up making more mess by trying to clean before it sets. The best thing I've found is to use white spirit dampened paper towel (kitchen roll or toilet paper) and remove small amounts at a time, changing the paper often. If it can be done neatly, it's less work to get it off before it's set. I've used at least six or seven boxes (of 12 tubes per box) on our boat restoration, and I'm still learning. Try a bit on a similar joint on something that doesn't matter and do one bit without wiping off any excess, and another with wiping. If you succeed in getting a neat joint with white spirit, that's the way to go. Leave it for at least a day (longer if more than a few mm thick) before trying to pare and/or sand back any excess on an uncleaned joint.

 

Expect some waste. Some applications I find that I wipe off at least 50% of what I put on, but it is sometimes necessary to have some excess to make sure it gets into all the nooks and crannies so that water can't get in there.

 

UK Sealants have a good range of the different types and colours, will give advice and dispatch very quickly if it's in stock,

 

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that I would mask that job either side of the joint with masking tape, take off excess and then pull the tape away before the sealer sets.

This is an excellent way of getting crisp clean straight lines.

Just to add, run your dampened digit down it before pulling the tape off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that I would mask that job either side of the joint with masking tape, take off excess and then pull the tape away before the sealer sets.

Yes, I'll be doing this - need to have the bead flush with the edge of the polycarbonate, and I won't want to sand off that.

 

 

This is an excellent way of getting crisp clean straight lines.

Just to add, run your dampened digit down it before pulling the tape off.

Yes, washing-up liquid, maybe wetted down. Careful now, don't want to set W + T off again.

 

Think I've got it all now, thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.