Jump to content

Water Lubricated Stern Gland


Featured Posts

A mate has one of these fitted to his wide beam. Everything on it is Vetus so it maybe one of their units. It's a Collingwood build.

 

The gland is leaking into the bilge. It's not easy to see where from. We can look closer in the morning. Is there any common issues like this with these glands? Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A mate has one of these fitted to his wide beam. Everything on it is Vetus so it maybe one of their units. It's a Collingwood build.

 

The gland is leaking into the bilge. It's not easy to see where from. We can look closer in the morning. Is there any common issues like this with these glands? Thanks

Try some silicone grease in it, through the allen headed screw.

To save much typing, here are my findings (lower page)

http://destinynarrowboat.weebly.com/vetus.html

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine's a Volvo seal and never a drop passes it, but it's so simple that if you can't see where the water is coming in then it sounds like you have a more complex item.

 

In case it is a Volvo seal, grease should be applied to the lip where the shaft enters it as an annual routine, at xxx running hours or after docking. Also, after docking, the seal should be squeezed until a little water passes to expel air and admit water for lubrication. Missing any of this maintenance could cause the lip seal to wear.

 

If it's a duff Volvo seal, the good news is that it can be changed in the water by wrapping a rag around the prop shaft to block the small water lubrication waterways whilst the rubber sleeve is replaced. The bad news is that they're about 60 quid, but they last ages if you look after them and, afaik, the failure mode is a drip rather than a biblical flood. Volvo recommend changing it every 5 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine's a Volvo seal and never a drop passes it, but it's so simple that if you can't see where the water is coming in then it sounds like you have a more complex item.

 

In case it is a Volvo seal, grease should be applied to the lip where the shaft enters it as an annual routine, at xxx running hours or after docking. Also, after docking, the seal should be squeezed until a little water passes to expel air and admit water for lubrication. Missing any of this maintenance could cause the lip seal to wear.

 

If it's a duff Volvo seal, the good news is that it can be changed in the water by wrapping a rag around the prop shaft to block the small water lubrication waterways whilst the rubber sleeve is replaced. The bad news is that they're about 60 quid, but they last ages if you look after them and, afaik, the failure mode is a drip rather than a biblical flood. Volvo recommend changing it every 5 years.

I used a Radice seal which is very similar to the Volvo, but with a vent pipe. 80 quid, fitted afloat myself as you describe and extremely pleased with it. Will change next drydock hopefully five years.The vetus cost me over 200 quid at the finish.

 

 

ps yes if the seal is removed afloat as you describe, surprisingly little water enters. My bilge pump easily coped. Of course there is a risk involved removing afloat!!

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A mate has one of these fitted to his wide beam. Everything on it is Vetus so it maybe one of their units. It's a Collingwood build.

The gland is leaking into the bilge. It's not easy to see where from. We can look closer in the morning. Is there any common issues like this with these glands? Thanks

They generally leak where shaft exits the unit on its way to the gearbox coupling.

If vetus it will have Allen key bolt. Remove and squeeze in silicone grease from plumbers merchants. Turn shaft by hand as you input grease.

If this doesn't cure it check engine alignment or look for damaged engine mount.

Easily changeable afloat and if the vetus unit is not really old you can buy the seals(2) from any decent bearing seals outlet.

I vetus unit is old it will be a unit with seal rubbers permanently fixed to the metal of the unit. if

New unit from vetus is circa £90 but will enable just seals, about£5 to be changed in future.

Edited by valrene9600
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you to everybody who has responded. We will try adding some silicon grease. I don't think this has ever been done during the service. It will be in future. I'll let you know the outcome.

Biggest annoyance on this forum is not knowing how folk got on after asking questions. I have learnt a lot from these "how it turned out "follow ups.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Vetus seal on my boat hasn't given me any problems. My experience of other boats is that many people get told that their Vetus stern gland is "Maintenance-free" and take that literally and never add any grease. This will cause them to leak which may be cured by greasing. I add the grease through the allen screw hole at least every 100 hours and also run a bit round the seal on the shaft.

 

The other reason for them leaking is a mis-aligned shaft or one where there is excessive movement. This is why some sort of fixed bearing before the stern gland is very beneficial, e.g. a Python drive with a fixed thrust bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've had a water lubricated stern tube with a Packless Sealing System (PSS) on Grebe for 17 years from new build. I reckon it is a Vetus stern tube set. I've only ever had one leak from it, and that was operator error.

 

The set-up is no stuffing box. A bellows containing a graphite flange is fixed to the stern tube and the drive shaft passes through the graphite ring. A stainless steel rotor clamped to the drive shaft sits against the graphine ring. The bellows containing the ring is compessed by about 1inch when the seal system is fitted, creating the seal. The stainless steel rotor has two O-rings as a seal to the shaft.

 

To bleed the system the bellows is pressed back wards and a drip of water comes through. It is vital that the bellows is returned to the normal position. The only time I did not do this we did get water through the stern tube.

 

Fault Finding as stated by PSS

 

Spray or mist during operation - Add an extra eitgth of an inch to the compression and try again. Repeat as required.

 

Dripping while not Operational - Foreign material such as grease or oil may be prohibiting the two faces from seating. Insert a clean cloth between the the graphite flange and the stainless steel rotor and rotate it around the shaft vigourously. As you do this water will flush both faces. Remove the cloth.

 

PSS are against the use of oils and greases when assembling the rotor onto the shaft and recommend soap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm having trouble finding silicon grease. Will stern gland grease work ok?

NO! Must be silicone for Vetus/Volvo etc seals. Volvo grease at many chandlers at reasonable price. Available at many plumbers usually in a little white tub for about a fiver. Small syringe body from chemist to insert the stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm having trouble finding silicon grease. Will stern gland grease work ok?

I use this in my Vetus seal every 100 hours, no leaks to date.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=plumba+grease&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=120793485498&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15670905415900715900&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=t&ref=pd_sl_4v0g7kiqyr_e

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all, we are moored at Hertford and have walked miles looking for a supplier. It's stopped dripping at rest but does drip reasonably fast when rotating. My mates base is at Roydon so he is going to cruise back there tomorrow. I'll let him have all your responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all, we are moored at Hertford and have walked miles looking for a supplier. It's stopped dripping at rest but does drip reasonably fast when rotating. My mates base is at Roydon so he is going to cruise back there tomorrow. I'll let him have all your responses.

That is how mine progressed. Likely the seals are shot, or in my case, the shaft, the seals and the inboard bearing just behind the seals.. That is why I eventually switched to a Radice seal, which is slightly shorter and runs on "new" shaft.

The shaft on my boat is now shaped like an egg timer, and a local bearing company were able to supply a repair sleeve, but I went down the Radice route, on the advice of a boatyard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seals do wear eventually as does the shaft. Our vetus stern gear started dripping about a tablespoon/day after 4000 hours/10 years. Before then it was completely dry, we only use silicone grease at the start of each year. Changing the seal is a fairly quick job. The boatyard advised that it would be prudent to replace the stern gear after 4500 hours. That is a much bigger job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seals do wear eventually as does the shaft. Our vetus stern gear started dripping about a tablespoon/day after 4000 hours/10 years. Before then it was completely dry, we only use silicone grease at the start of each year. Changing the seal is a fairly quick job. The boatyard advised that it would be prudent to replace the stern gear after 4500 hours. That is a much bigger job.

I think mine will be ready for a new cutless bearing at next drydock which will also be about 4500hrs I would estimate.

We've had a water lubricated stern tube with a Packless Sealing System (PSS) on Grebe for 17 years from new build. I reckon it is a Vetus stern tube set. I've only ever had one leak from it, and that was operator error.

 

The set-up is no stuffing box. A bellows containing a graphite flange is fixed to the stern tube and the drive shaft passes through the graphite ring. A stainless steel rotor clamped to the drive shaft sits against the graphine ring. The bellows containing the ring is compessed by about 1inch when the seal system is fitted, creating the seal. The stainless steel rotor has two O-rings as a seal to the shaft.

 

To bleed the system the bellows is pressed back wards and a drip of water comes through. It is vital that the bellows is returned to the normal position. The only time I did not do this we did get water through the stern tube.

 

Fault Finding as stated by PSS

 

Spray or mist during operation - Add an extra eitgth of an inch to the compression and try again. Repeat as required.

 

Dripping while not Operational - Foreign material such as grease or oil may be prohibiting the two faces from seating. Insert a clean cloth between the the graphite flange and the stainless steel rotor and rotate it around the shaft vigourously. As you do this water will flush both faces. Remove the cloth.

 

PSS are against the use of oils and greases when assembling the rotor onto the shaft and recommend soap.

Missed this post. I really like the look of the PSS system, as it places no wear on the shaft when forming a seal. I have often thought about going for a PSS when I eventually have to fit a new propshaft and cutless bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have a PSS and are impressed. Initially, it suffered a trauma on launch of the boat, when a sleeper was left under and passed through the prop. Even though the compression required was released, the prop bent as was the leading edge of the rudder, ner a drip.

 

Six summers on, it continues to give great service. Not a drip, unless I stand on the B****r!

 

Simple but effective. A bit like me( minus the effective...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now it's pure luck that my boat has a Volvo seal, but it's so simple and effective that I don't see why many more of us don't have them. A bone dry bilge is a very good thing in my book. I understand they're not good with prop shafts that flap about a bit(!), and it probably doesn't make financial sense to retrofit, but can anyone who is more deeply involved with stern glands (sorry) explain why they're not more common? Is there an issue I might like to be aware of?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now it's pure luck that my boat has a Volvo seal, but it's so simple and effective that I don't see why many more of us don't have them. A bone dry bilge is a very good thing in my book. I understand they're not good with prop shafts that flap about a bit(!), and it probably doesn't make financial sense to retrofit, but can anyone who is more deeply involved with stern glands (sorry) explain why they're not more common? Is there an issue I might like to be aware of?

No expert, but I have seen a few boats with the Volvo seal fitted and spoken to owners. I would certainly be happy with one, but my system was already plumbed for a vent pipe, so the very similar but vented Radice made sense. I wouldn't mind betting that they are from the same stable anyway.

Must say the Radice has outperformed the previous seal I had to date. Never one drip. At 80 quid (or less for the Volvo) I am happy to change it every few years.

I had considered going back to a traditional greaser like my previous boat, but am happy with the present setup for the time being. I might rethink my strategy when I need t renew the shaft/bearing etc.

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.