Rubbing in Oil. Oh yeah baby...

[junior]

Halsall has a lovely steerers step made from thick Ash (i think).

 

It used to be secured in place with wood screws through a holes drilled in a steel plate below. Gradually the step started to warp a little and the screws pulled loose and would result in a wobbly step.

The solution was to drill some larger holes and put in the more heavy duty bolts you can see the heads of in the step. When these were tightened it pulled the step back flat and ironed out the slight 'warp'.

 

Recently I've noticed a couple of tiny cracks appear across the step, i presume as it is trying to warp again but is held securely by the bolts. I assume this keeps happening as the wood gets wet/damp.

 

So my question...

 

Is there any type of oil i can buy to rub into the wood to help waterproof it, or soften it, and is this likely to help?

 

Some factors to think about...

 

I stand on the step all day every day (ok not overnight). I'm worried that oiling the step might make it slippery and dangerous unless the oil soaks in very quickly.

Also i guess that the area around the edges still has some varnish on it and the oil wouldn't soak in. Therefore i am worried just the edges would remain slippery and I'd have an accident.

 

I've ruled out re-varnishing as it's clearly not a good long term option as the varnish that is on there now is only about 18months old and has already worn off severely.

I also don't have the clear days i would need to do a couple of coats and then allow it to dry properly.

 

Cheers.

 

[billS]

I think teak oil would fit the bill as far as non slippiness is concerned. I use it on my garden furniture and I haven't fallen off my chair once.

[WotEver]

I'd recommend sanding it well and giving it an initial coat of something like:

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-wr-base-coat?sid=2. This will help prevent drying out and splitting.

 

Then top-coating with a quality exterior oil such as:

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil?gclid=CMiqqr2Xk84CFUi3Gwod3JoL4g.

 

Oiled wood (when using a quality product correctly) doesn't become 'oily'. The oil soaks in and dries to a hard non-slippy finish very similar in appearance to a varnished finish except less 'plasticky'.

 

I finished a set of steps for WotEver with the above products and they looked as good when I sold her 3 years later as they did when I made them.

 

Tony

Edited July 27, 2016 by WotEver

[MoominPapa]

I think teak oil would fit the bill as far as non slippiness is concerned. I use it on my garden furniture and I haven't fallen off my chair once.

 

Given the current state of the world, that's a pretty good endorsement!

 

MP.

[Peter X]

Ash? That step has a wide grain, looks more like pine to me. If so, it will need more protection against damp than a hardwood, but what form that should take I don't know.

[WotEver]

Ash? That step has a wide grain, looks more like pine to me. If so, it will need more protection against damp than a hardwood, but what form that should take I don't know.

Looks like plain sawn Ash to my eyes.

 

http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/ash-wood-black-white-and-everything-in-between/

 

Edited to add image link

Edited July 27, 2016 by WotEver

[MtB]

I don't think anything will stop it splitting.

 

The problem is inadequate seasoning of the wood it is made from in the first place. As its moisture content adjusts to match the environment in which it is used, the wood shrinks and changes shape. This process done naturally takes several years and the wood shouldn't be machined and used to make anything until the process of drying out (seasoning) is complete.

 

Most new timber (including hardwoods) commercially available is kiln dried and tends to change shape. Forcing it to stay in its 'wet' shape can lead to cracks and splitting as yours has. Just ignore the cracks. It will continue to work as a step.

[WotEver]

A good treatment with a suitable product such as my first link above will help to negate any tendency to shrinkage and splitting. Note that I didn't say 'prevent' - wood is alive and will always move with the seasons. It's a shame that the step is made from a plain sawn plank close to the centre of the tree - that is the cut most prone to cupping.

 

Tony

[MtB]

A good treatment with a suitable product such as my first link above will help to negate any tendency to shrinkage and splitting. Note that I didn't say 'prevent' - wood is alive and will always move with the seasons. It's a shame that the step is made from a plain sawn plank close to the centre of the tree - that is the cut most prone to cupping.

 

Tony

 

 

Only alive until someone chopped the tree down!

[WotEver]

 

Only alive until someone chopped the tree down!

Nahh, it lives vicariously through loving use ?

[MtB]

Although thinking back to my woodwork 'O' Level, the heartwood is dead already. Only the sapwood on the outside of a tree is alive. The heartwood is used for making stuff. The sapwood is not much use for anything beyond chipboard.

[tree monkey]

Although thinking back to my woodwork 'O' Level, the heartwood is dead already. Only the sapwood on the outside of a tree is alive. The heartwood is used for making stuff. The sapwood is not much use for anything beyond chipboard.

Dead yes but still important for fluid transport and starch storage, plus was not sapwood an important part of longbow production?

[Seti-Yeti]

To continue the theme of the post title: Swedish wood oil... marvellous matron!

Dead yes but still important for fluid transport and starch storage, plus was not sapwood an important part of longbow production?

 

Longbows need (if of a composite design) a wood good in compression: the archers side, and a wood good in tension, away from the archer. Several are suitable in these roles. Mine however is ash, through and through and as handsome natural cast. It's around 50# at my draw length.

[Tonka]

My vote would be Danish Oil

[tree monkey]

To continue the theme of the post title: Swedish wood oil... marvellous matron!

 

 

Longbows need (if of a composite design) a wood good in compression: the archers side, and a wood good in tension, away from the archer. Several are suitable in these roles. Mine however is ash, through and through and as handsome natural cast. It's around 50# at my draw length.

Lovely things, I've used one a couple of times but did not the originals made to utilise the sapwood in some way?

[Tim Lewis]

Halsall has a lovely steerers step made from thick Ash (i think).

 

It used to be secured in place with wood screws through a holes drilled in a steel plate below. Gradually the step started to warp a little and the screws pulled loose and would result in a wobbly step.

The solution was to drill some larger holes and put in the more heavy duty bolts you can see the heads of in the step. When these were tightened it pulled the step back flat and ironed out the slight 'warp'.

 

Recently I've noticed a couple of tiny cracks appear across the step, i presume as it is trying to warp again but is held securely by the bolts. I assume this keeps happening as the wood gets wet/damp.

 

So my question...

 

Is there any type of oil i can buy to rub into the wood to help waterproof it, or soften it, and is this likely to help?

 

Some factors to think about...

 

I stand on the step all day every day (ok not overnight). I'm worried that oiling the step might make it slippery and dangerous unless the oil soaks in very quickly.

Also i guess that the area around the edges still has some varnish on it and the oil wouldn't soak in. Therefore i am worried just the edges would remain slippery and I'd have an accident.

 

I've ruled out re-varnishing as it's clearly not a good long term option as the varnish that is on there now is only about 18months old and has already worn off severely.

I also don't have the clear days i would need to do a couple of coats and then allow it to dry properly.

 

Cheers.

 

 

 

 

This is the stuff we use on the back deck of Fulbourne:

 

http://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/deks-olje-d1/

 

followed by:

 

http://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/deks-olje-d2/

 

Timber has now been down for 30 years.

 

It's not cheap :-(

 

Tim

Edited July 27, 2016 by Tim Lewis

[WotEver]

Good products, Tim.

[pete harrison]

Just ignore the cracks. It will continue to work as a step.

I am with Mike on this. HALSALL's cabin step will be subject to heavy use under hostile / varying conditions so don't worry about it and treat it as sacrificial.

 

Having said that if it is Ash then it should be scrubbed white, and as a professional boatman there should be no excuses (I used to scrub the Oak cabin step when I was working as a boatman as I did not like the idea of having dog sh!t e.t.c. inches from where I cooked my grub)

[junior]

I am with Mike on this. HALSALL's cabin step will be subject to heavy use under hostile / varying conditions so don't worry about it and treat it as sacrificial.

 

Having said that if it is Ash then it should be scrubbed white, and as a professional boatman there should be no excuses (I used to scrub the Oak cabin step when I was working as a boatman as I did not like the idea of having dog sh!t e.t.c. inches from where I cooked my grub)

I clean it every night as i like to go out for my last fag before bed with bare feet. I'm ashamed to admit that i clean it with werwipes though! I had been stood on it for 3 hours prior to that photo being taken!

[Harpur Hill]

I have a piece of elm which may be big enough to replace the step. You can have it if you want it. I don't know the exact size & it's buried in the shed. If you're interested let me know the size & I'll go and measure.

 

HH

"How we use wych elm

Elm wood is strong and durable with a tight-twisted grain, and is resistant to water. It has been used in decorative turning, and to make boats and boat parts, furniture, wheel hubs, wooden water pipes, floorboards and coffins".

[Harpur Hill]

I have a piece of elm which may be big enough to replace the step. You can have it if you want it. I don't know the exact size & it's buried in the shed. If you're interested let me know the size & I'll go and measure.

 

HH

"How we use wych elm

Elm wood is strong and durable with a tight-twisted grain, and is resistant to water. It has been used in decorative turning, and to make boats and boat parts, furniture, wheel hubs, wooden water pipes, floorboards and coffins".

 

I've borrowed this from another thread.....................

• 
• Members
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• Gender:Male
• Location:Aberdeen
• Boat Name:Telemachus

Posted Today, 12:07 PM

Amazing isn't it, someone asks a question, you go out of your way to be helpful including posting a page from the manual, and the OP doesn't even acknowledge it. And yes I've checked, he has been back to the forum repeatedly. Some people have no manners or common courtesy but are just wrapped up in their own selfishness.

• 
• 2

Our boat's name is Telemachus

As in Tel-LEM-a-kus, not Telly-match-us. Thank you!

 

 

Got to agree with you. It's happened to me here before. It will NOT happen again.

 

Shame for those who will miss out on future freebies, I've a garage/shed/loft full of stuff to move on.

 

HH

[David Mack]

Why have a go at Nick, who hasn't even contributed to this thread??

[MtB]

Why have a go at Nick, who hasn't even contributed to this thread??

 

 

I thought he was (rather clumsily) quoting Nick, who was saying much the same thing. I.e. help someone out and get ignored.

[WotEver]

 

 

I thought he was (rather clumsily) quoting Nick, who was saying much the same thing. I.e. help someone out and get ignored.

That's how I read it too. Loads of helpful suggestions, recommendations and even a very generous offer.

 

Response - zero.

 

Tony

[Erie Canal]

Response number 19?