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Inverter to RCD, advice please


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Hi all,

 

Have finally gotten around to servicing engine 'ole, repainting bilge, rewiring.

 

We don't have shoreline. I want to protect the single 240 circuit with a separate RCD. Currently, it just has a 150A fuse on the 12V side.

 

I'm unsure what to do with the earth. Do I run it straight into the inverter, and subsequently to the hull via the 12V negative?

 

TIA

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Hi all,

 

Have finally gotten around to servicing engine 'ole, repainting bilge, rewiring.

 

We don't have shoreline. I want to protect the single 240 circuit with a separate RCD. Currently, it just has a 150A fuse on the 12V side.

 

I'm unsure what to do with the earth. Do I run it straight into the inverter, and subsequently to the hull via the 12V negative?

 

TIA

Cut from a post of yours eariyer today......Inverters are cheap and easy enough. Could be integrated with existing 240v system via a fusebox.

Not so easy 'mbee? By earth are you refering to 12V negative to inverter or 240v ?
Edit. Slow typeing, WotEver has picked up and pointed you in the right direction. Good.
Edited by Taslim
  • Greenie 1
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Cut from a post of yours eariyer today......Inverters are cheap and easy enough. Could be integrated with existing 240v system via a fusebox.

Not so easy 'mbee? By earth are you refering to 12V negative to inverter or 240v ?
Edit. Slow typeing, WotEver has picked up and pointed you in the right direction. Good.

 

 

 

:D

 

Having seen the diagram, I'd stand by what I said....adding a small inverter is easy enough. The other thread coincided with what I was doing...admittedly, I hadn't given too much thought to the RCD yet. All I was unclear on was if the RCD required a separate bond to the hull, or, if the inverter was arranged to be able to use the 12V connection to the hull. Reading previous threads, there does seem to be some uncertainty on this. Ultimately, it isn't difficult to do - which was what I was saying. Perhaps I should remain quiet.

 

I don't claim to be a genius - so asked for specific advice. Having considered it, I suppose I wouldn't want a fault load to be directed through the inverter/batteries to the hull, nor am I certain it could be. Glad I asked though!

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biggrin.png

 

Having seen the diagram, I'd stand by what I said....adding a small inverter is easy enough. The other thread coincided with what I was doing...admittedly, I hadn't given too much thought to the RCD yet. All I was unclear on was if the RCD required a separate bond to the hull, or, if the inverter was arranged to be able to use the 12V connection to the hull. Reading previous threads, there does seem to be some uncertainty on this. Ultimately, it isn't difficult to do - which was what I was saying. Perhaps I should remain quiet.

 

I don't claim to be a genius - so asked for specific advice. Having considered it, I suppose I wouldn't want a fault load to be directed through the inverter/batteries to the hull, nor am I certain it could be. Glad I asked though!

I wasn't taking a pop. closedeyes.gif Just noticed the two threads.

 

You were quite right to ask even if only to confirm what you already knew.

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All I was unclear on was if the RCD required a separate bond to the hull, or, if the inverter was arranged to be able to use the 12V connection to the hull. Reading previous threads, there does seem to be some uncertainty on this

Phrased as above, I'm somewhat confused that you refer to previous threads having 'some uncertainty'.

 

The output of the GI or IT and/or Inverter goes to the consumer unit, possibly via a changeover switch. Within the CU is an RCD, the output of which feeds MCBs which in turn feed the 230V around the boat. The consumer unit should have a cable, at least 4mm2 which bonds the earth rail in the CU to the hull. The hull connection should ideally (for ease of understanding for future users) be adjacent to but separate from the 12V -ve bond.

 

No confusion or uncertainty.

 

Tony

 

Of course, the inverter also requires a N-E bond at its output for the RCD to operate correctly.

"at its output" can mean internal depending on the manufacturer.

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Phrased as above, I'm somewhat confused that you refer to previous threads having 'some uncertainty'.

 

The output of the GI or IT and/or Inverter goes to the consumer unit, possibly via a changeover switch. Within the CU is an RCD, the output of which feeds MCBs which in turn feed the 230V around the boat. The consumer unit should have a cable, at least 4mm2 which bonds the earth rail in the CU to the hull. The hull connection should ideally (for ease of understanding for future users) be adjacent to but separate from the 12V -ve bond.

 

No confusion or uncertainty.

 

Tony

 

Of course, the inverter also requires a N-E bond at its output for the RCD to operate correctly.

"at its output" can mean internal depending on the manufacturer.

Pretty much the way I did ours. Always worth checking with manufacturer before adding N-E bond. My Sterling had no such bond, but on checking it was OK to install one. It tripped instantly when a running power tool went for a swim recently.

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Green things all round.

 

Now that we're over the initial hurdles, I'm focussing (and learning) on safety. There is no apparent N-E point on the inverter, but I'll take a look at the manufacturer's guidelines.

 

:D

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