FMK marine Diesel engines - dipstick needed

[elastic]

Hi, new to the forum and my first post is a question ... Sorry!

 

My boat has an 1991 FMK Diesel from Boatserve Ltd (in fact it's a modified Mitsibishi K4) - both companies (FMK and Boatserve) don't exist any more (or at least I can't find any information on the Internet).

The engine runs smooth but as long as I have the boat (1 1/2 yrs) the dipstick is broken so I can't measure the oil level ... by changing the oil every 6 months the amount left has always been enough but It would be much better to have a dipstick.

 

When contacting Diamond diesel and Mitsubishi it turned out, that Boatserve/FMK has modified the engine with a custom built high level dipstick which isn't available as a spare part from Mitsubishi ...

 

Does anyone have any information about the FMK Diesel engines and/or any idea where I could get a dipstick - it's the FMK 4 engine

 

Many thanks,

Martin

[Scholar Gypsy]

Hi, new to the forum and my first post is a question ... Sorry!

 

My boat has an 1991 FMK Diesel from Boatserve Ltd (in fact it's a modified Mitsibishi K4) - both companies (FMK and Boatserve) don't exist any more (or at least I can't find any information on the Internet).

The engine runs smooth but as long as I have the boat (1 1/2 yrs) the dipstick is broken so I can't measure the oil level ... by changing the oil every 6 months the amount left has always been enough but It would be much better to have a dipstick.

 

When contacting Diamond diesel and Mitsubishi it turned out, that Boatserve/FMK has modified the engine with a custom built high level dipstick which isn't available as a spare part from Mitsubishi ...

 

Does anyone have any information about the FMK Diesel engines and/or any idea where I could get a dipstick - it's the FMK 4 engine

 

Many thanks,

Martin

 

Dear Martin

 

I have a very similar problem - engine installed by the same firm in 1994. The top of the dipstick snapped off and we managed by affixing a wire cable clap to the top of the dipstick. That works fine.

 

One suggestion would be to use a section of the springy stuff used for curtains, marking the level just after an oil change. Clearly you wouldn't leave it in position when the engine is running, I suppose one should have some sort of cap to stop crap going down the tube.

 

I too had tried diamond diesel, who supply most of the spare parts I need. If you do get an answer to your Q then please let me know....

[elastic]

I have a very similar problem - engine installed by the same firm in 1994. The top of the dipstick snapped off and we managed by affixing a wire cable clap to the top of the dipstick. That works fine.

 

I too had tried diamond diesel, who supply most of the spare parts I need. If you do get an answer to your Q then please let me know....

There is only the middle part left of my dipstick and I won't try to attach something to the lower end as I'm afraid it could fall off into the engine ...

 

The idea with the curtain spring holder is worth a try - just for measuring - it's cheap white and flexible - should work :-) - when running the engine the rest of the original dipstick will seal the opening

 

Unfortunately diamond diesel don't supply that kind of dipstick - the already two used ones from original Mitsubishi high level fittings but they are all the wrong length :-( - would be great to get hold of someone from FMK/Boatserve to ask where they got them from ...

[MtB]

Do yoyu think the missing bit broke off with the dipstick in the hole?

 

If so the missing bit must be in the sump. Not good news!

 

If you fit a magnetic sump drain plug it may well capture it. Then you can put the bits together to obtain the dimensions, and fabricate an equivalent replacement.

[Eeyore]

Hi, new to the forum and my first post is a question ... Sorry!

My boat has an 1991 FMK Diesel from Boatserve Ltd (in fact it's a modified Mitsibishi K4) - both companies (FMK and Boatserve) don't exist any more (or at least I can't find any information on the Internet).

The engine runs smooth but as long as I have the boat (1 1/2 yrs) the dipstick is broken so I can't measure the oil level ... by changing the oil every 6 months the amount left has always been enough but It would be much better to have a dipstick.

When contacting Diamond diesel and Mitsubishi it turned out, that Boatserve/FMK has modified the engine with a custom built high level dipstick which isn't available as a spare part from Mitsubishi ...

Does anyone have any information about the FMK Diesel engines and/or any idea where I could get a dipstick - it's the FMK 4 engine

Many thanks,

Martin

Hi Martin

The easy way is to remove the extension tube and use a "normal" dip stick for the K4 that fits directly into the hole in the block. It will of course be more difficult to reach, but would that be a problem? Diamond diesels may even have a used item from a scrap engine.

The alternative would be to compare your setup with the Vetus extended dipstick and extension tube. Maybe the Vetus dipstick would be suitable in your existing tube; or maybe the Vetus tube and dipstick could be fitted.

Steve (Eeyore)

[elastic]

Do yoyu think the missing bit broke off with the dipstick in the hole?

 

If so the missing bit must be in the sump. Not good news!

 

If you fit a magnetic sump drain plug it may well capture it. Then you can put the bits together to obtain the dimensions, and fabricate an equivalent replacement.

No, the dipstick has been like this when I bought the boat and the former owner told me the bits were missing fo a long time ... But maybe it's still in there and only the filter holds it back from breaking the engine :-( - never thought of that ...

[elastic]

The alternative would be to compare your setup with the Vetus extended dipstick and extension tube. Maybe the Vetus dipstick would be suitable in your existing tube; or maybe the Vetus tube and dipstick could be fitted.

Steve (Eeyore)

Sounds like a brilliant idea - is there anyone around with a vetus or thornycroft engine with an extended dipstick who could measure the length of the flexible part and the diameter of the fitting in the tube?

Many thanks, Martin

[Eeyore]

Sounds like a brilliant idea - is there anyone around with a vetus or thornycroft engine with an extended dipstick who could measure the length of the flexible part and the diameter of the fitting in the tube?

Many thanks, Martin

Martin

Here is a link to a Vetus parts catalogue.

http://www.vetus.com/media/magentominds/sasdocument/20160620100253_0.pdf

The information on dip sticks is on page 2-14

This is for the later S4L engine which replaced the K4, should fit ok.

The length isn't that important; just fill the engine with the recommended amount of oil and see where its comes on the new dipstick. You can always put a new (small) mark on the side of the dipstick with a junior hacksaw if needed.

The Vetus operators manual for their K4 based engine shows minimum oil as 3 litres and maximum oil as 4.5 litres, so you have, so you have quite some latitude when it comes to fitting an alternative dipstick.

Steve (Eeyore)

Edited July 23, 2016 by Eeyore

[MtB]

No, the dipstick has been like this when I bought the boat and the former owner told me the bits were missing fo a long time ... But maybe it's still in there and only the filter holds it back from breaking the engine :-( - never thought of that ...

 

 

We occasionally hear of broken dipsticks. I can;t imagine anyone deliberately removing a dipstick and snapping the end off, so I'm driven to conclude they vibrate in their location and work hardening or metal fatigue makes them spontaneously break. If this is right then the end must be in the sump!

 

Its unlikely to bust the engine though. There is nothing to make it go anywhere but down to the lowest place, i.e. where the sump drain plug will be too.

[Scholar Gypsy]

Steve / Eeyore

 

Thanks for the catalogue, very helpful. That dipstick tube looks rather straighter than the one I have on my K4, which has to bend to get around the oil filter.

 

One can see the wire cable clamp in this photo - the top of the dipstick. But it's helpful that the catalogue has the length on it, I will measure mine when next on board!

 

[elastic]

Martin

Here is a link to a Vetus parts catalogue.

http://www.vetus.com/media/magentominds/sasdocument/20160620100253_0.pdf

The information on dip sticks is on page 2-14

This is for the later S4L engine which replaced the K4, should fit ok.

Steve (Eeyore)

Thanks for the link - I already tried that one and it not flexible enough - the original one is more like a long flexible spring with two more solid parts on both ends (the ones missing on mine ;-) )

[elastic]

Here a photo which compares my dipstick with the missing parts on both ends and the one from the newer engine ...

[Eeyore]

Thanks for the link - I already tried that one and it not flexible enough - the original one is more like a long flexible spring with two more solid parts on both ends (the ones missing on mine ;-) )

I think the dip stick on Lister Petter Canalstar engines is of the type you describe.

Someone will be along to tell me if I'm right, and to tell you how long they are ;-)

Steve (Eeyore)

Edited July 23, 2016 by Eeyore

[bizzard]

If the dipstick tube is straight or is a fairly gentle curve a length of 1/8'' welding rod makes a wonderful strong dipstick that will never break. I made one for my Lister ST2 which has a curve. And garage would probably give you a length of 1/8'' steel wedding rod. 1 meter long.

All you do is drain the oil off and refill with the recommended amount as per the engines handbook. Curve the length of rod gently by hand to more or less the curve of the tube. Poke it down the tube and pull it out, just to get an idea where the oil level is on it. Get a small collar,''Meccano'' ones are ideal and slip it onto the rod. Poke the rod back down the tube until it hits bottom and pull it back up a shade,''about 1/2'' or so and tighten the collars securing screw where it rests on the tubes top. You can now scribe calibrations on the bottom end of the rod. Wipe the dipstick and reinsert, withdraw and mark the full level with a shallow cut with a junior hacksaw. You can now mark more calibrations below this if you wish, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 full.

The handle length of the rod can be cropped off to whatever height you want and the top bent to an L shape or loop as a finger pull.

You might need to slip a small O ring up the rod to under the collar to stop fumes but if the old dipstick didn't have one I shouldn't bother.

There you have it. One splendid homemade dipstick.

[Eeyore]

Here is the Lister Petter parts list http://www.winget.co.uk/document/LISTER%20PETTER%20LPW-LPWS%20PARTS%20MANUAL.pdf

It's page 2.96 (177 of 211)

[Dalslandia]

Cameron will not work?

[bizzard]

Here is the Lister Petter parts list http://www.winget.co.uk/document/LISTER%20PETTER%20LPW-LPWS%20PARTS%20MANUAL.pdf

It's page 2.96 (177 of 211)

Thanks for that, but I've got all those manuals. I preferred to make my own its stronger and cheaper. Those springy curtain wire type dipsticks I wouldn't entertain at all having had over the years to deal with many broken ones in vehicle engines.

[Eeyore]

Thanks for that, but I've got all those manuals. I preferred to make my own its stronger and cheaper. Those springy curtain wire type dipsticks I wouldn't entertain at all having had over the years to deal with many broken ones in vehicle engines.

Not my favourite type either, just posted for the OP and SG ( you posted whilst I was typing) might be useful if your option is found to be unsuitable due to the curvature of the tube.

Steve (Eeyore)

[Tony Brooks]

That flexible dipstick look very much like a length of inner speedometer cable, right down to the nylon stepped bush on the end.

 

If you can find the right "old boy" type garage they may have the kit to make you one up to length with a bit stuck out of the top of the bush. If you were so minded you could braze/silver solder a metal ring on the top

Edited July 23, 2016 by Tony Brooks

[elastic]

That flexible dipstick look very much like a length of inner speedometer cable, right down to the nylon stepped bush on the end.

 

If you can find the right "old boy" type garage they may have the kit to make you one up to length with a bit stuck out of the top of the bush. If you were so minded you could braze/silver solder a metal ring on the top

Thanks - I'll give that a try - speedometer cable ... Always thought it looks familiar ...

[nick.pritchard]

The Boatserve dipstick was taken from a Ford Sierra with the metal section showing the markings removed and a piece of 1/8th nylon fitted with a flat filed on it.

the diameter was reduced to wind it into the flexible section.

Sorry, I’ve only just come back to ‘canals’ to do BSS exams and resurrect Boatserve after many years in the Oil &Gas industry and saw this by chance.

I’d love to hear from owners of any Boatserve FMK engines.

FMK stood for Floyd Mitsubishi K series after my dog!

 

[nick.pritchard]

nick.pritchard@boatserve.co.uk if anyone wants any info on the engines I’ll dredge my memory and try to help

[Alan de Enfield]

1 hour ago, nick.pritchard said:

Sorry, I’ve only just come back to ‘canals’ to do BSS exams

 

You appear to be 'bucking the trend'.

Apparently BSS examiners are leaving in 'droves' as it is uneconomic to do the examinations at the current pricing levels.

[Scholar Gypsy]

Dear Nick

 

Nice to hear from you!  We had our engine installed at Braunston in 1994. Had it rebuilt a few years ago, the compression was getting a bit wheezy.

 

My main issue is over the water hoses, which I am gradually replacing as you can see here.  I have replaced the return hose into the water pump, and the exit hose from the heat exchanger.  The one I can’t find is one that connects the thermostat to the Bowman heat exchanger. The sizes seem a bit odd.

 

Best wishes

[nick.pritchard]

Hi Simon, nice to hear from you.

Originally I bought hoses from motor factors, they were  RH919 & RH1426  made by Quinton Hazell (off the top of my head! So I may be wrong! I can’t remember 5 minutes ago but 25 years is a cinch!)

I had my own thermostat housings cast which only required a 90 degree hose but I also had silicon hoses made in South Wales which fitted the standard Mitsubishi  stat housing. That may be mixed up actually, it may have been the QH which fitted the Mitsubishi housing.