Manual shower taps v's thermostatic

[Wild Is The Wind]

Hi all

Looking for some advice...

We are fitting a small shower bath so are researching whether to fit a simple set of mixer taps with shower attached or to go for thermostatic version. I understand the thermostatic version should help regulate the water temperature if someone turns on a tap elsewhere when someone is in the shower so this sounds the safer option. The water is heated by the engine or Webasto and there is an accumulator and expansion tank in place.

We want to keep it as simple as possible and don't have a lot of money to spend.

Any recommendations on what to buy would be really helpful.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Tiggs]

IMO thermostatic heat restriction is essential for small showers on boats, because you can't back away quick enough if it goes hot. You can do this with a thermostatic shower or a TMV valve and a manual mixer.

Edited July 16, 2016 by Tiggs

[by'eck]

Given that the water in your typically modest sized calorifier will fall in temperature during the course of a shower, would suggest a thermostatic mixer is the way to go. Once set at a comfortable temperature it will maintain that as calorifier temp lowers.

[cuthound]

Our boat has the thermostat valve on the hot water outlet of the calorifier.

 

Great idea, as it stops anyone anywhere in the boat getting scalded, and makes the stored hot water go a lot further.

[Wild Is The Wind]

Thanks both - at very basic level was thinking of bath taps with shower attachment and bar to fix to. Thermostatic and not too expensive. Can anyone post a link to something that would do, have been looking at Screwfix?

Thanks Cuthound. That sounds like another option. Are the valves expensive? I guess any plumber could do this for us or would they need experience of doing things on a boat?

[Chewbacka]

Our boat has the thermostat valve on the hot water outlet of the calorifier.

 

Great idea, as it stops anyone anywhere in the boat getting scalded, and makes the stored hot water go a lot further.

I also have a mixer on the calorifier, but it is set to about 60c to ensure very hot water in the galley sink. This is too hot for a shower, so I also have a thermostatic shower. So I think both is best.

[Wild Is The Wind]

Any links to these things would help, trying to research but knowing little and with so much available its baffling and time consuming.

[cuthound]

Thanks both - at very basic level was thinking of bath taps with shower attachment and bar to fix to. Thermostatic and not too expensive. Can anyone post a link to something that would do, have been looking at Screwfix?

Thanks Cuthound. That sounds like another option. Are the valves expensive? I guess any plumber could do this for us or would they need experience of doing things on a boat?

This.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/surecal-15-or-22mm-Thermostatic-mixer-valve-/181957486758

 

Any plumber could do it, but it is fairly easy diy.

I also have a mixer on the calorifier, but it is set to about 60c to ensure very hot water in the galley sink. This is too hot for a shower, so I also have a thermostatic shower. So I think both is best.

You could always turn it down from 60°C. 60°C is dangeroulsy hot to deliver to tap and could easily scald a child for example.

 

Edited to add the last sentance.

Edited July 16, 2016 by cuthound

[Wild Is The Wind]

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Bristan Jute bath shower mixer tap Chrome Plated

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Please ignore that, wrong product and don't know how to do links.

[bag 'o' bones]

Try and go for a recognised make - Bristan, Pegler Triton etc

 

Don't buy 'cheap' un named sanitary fittings they are exactly that - cheap and nasty.

 

Look for expensive reputable makes but massively reduced by and you can't go wrong.

[Wild Is The Wind]

Thanks Cuthound, just what I needed to see. It looks like Victoria Plumbing have reasonably priced thermostatic bath/shower sets too.

[Flyboy]

What about this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-Thermostatic-Bar-Mixer-Bath-Shower-Valve-5-Function-Shower-Head-1-5m-Hose-/252331403703?

[GUMPY]

We have this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311478702489

Works a treat.

[Wild Is The Wind]

Thanks, looks good, but no taps for the bath.

[GUMPY]

Thanks, looks good, but no taps for the bath.

We have a hip type bath on the boat but just use it as a shower tray. Baths use a huge ammount of water and even with approx 1000l of water storage we wouldn't consider using the hip bath.

[kingswood]

my hot water is heated by a paloma instant heater only would a thermo jobby work on that, as I get fed up fiddling with the taps to get it right

[Scholar Gypsy]

I also have a mixer on the calorifier, but it is set to about 60c to ensure very hot water in the galley sink. This is too hot for a shower, so I also have a thermostatic shower. So I think both is best.

I take the (very) hot water from the calorifier directly to the galley sink (handy for filling the kettle).

There is then a TMV to deliver warm water to all the other "hot" taps, set to the right temperature for showers & washing hands etc.

 

diagram available on request. easy DIY plumbing.

Edited July 17, 2016 by Scholar Gypsy

[mross]

The hot water cylinder thermostat should be set to 60C. Any lower can promote growth of Legionella. http://www.hse.gov.uk/healthservices/legionella.htm

 

Downstream of the cylinder, you can set a lower temperature with a mixing valve. This will also make better use of the limited hot water storage by mixing in some cold.

[Bobbybass]

Thermostatic is definatley the way to go...and a simple 'flick on/off' type is the best.

 

If you are short of water..you can get wet....turn it off....'soap up'..then flip it on and rinse...without singeing your fragile bits..

[dor]

We have a hip type bath on the boat but just use it as a shower tray. Baths use a huge ammount of water and even with approx 1000l of water storage we wouldn't consider using the hip bath.

Exactly this.

 

Hip (or 'sit') bath with no taps, just a standard thermostatic bar-type mixer valve for the shower. Ideal for "navy showers" to minimise water use. I originally installed completely separate hot and cold systems with two pumps, accumulators etc. with a lever ball valve to connect the two, normally closed. I found that with the pumps cycling individually, the pressure changed quicker than the thermostat could operate, so I now leave the valve open and just use one pump.

 

The therrmostat now operates properly, and I have the advantage of being able to isolate either the hot or cold side of the system and have a spare pump ready for immediate use.

[chazzy]

I think some thermostatic showers have a maximum input temperature for hot water, which I would consider a thermal valve set within the shower max temperature range at the calorifier would be a good idea, with the added advantage of not having scolding hot water at other taps as already stated.

[GUMPY]

I to do "navy showers" however if the system is at full pressure with the pump having just shut off I can have a complete shower without the pump cutting in however it then runs for 1min 20secs to repressureise the system. The advantage of having a 25L accumalator also means we never notice a change in water pressure unless the system needs adjustment

Why boats have 5L ones I will never know.

[Scu8a]

As a side issue......I have a hand held shower head with an on off leaver in the head. I guess it saves me 50% in the water used each shower.

[cuthound]

The hot water cylinder thermostat should be set to 60C. Any lower can promote growth of Legionella. http://www.hse.gov.uk/healthservices/legionella.htm

 

Downstream of the cylinder, you can set a lower temperature with a mixing valve. This will also make better use of the limited hot water storage by mixing in some cold.

If the calorifier is heated by the engine, the water will be stored at 80°C plus, thus ensuring that no legionella can develop.

 

The thermostatic valve is fitted to the hot water outlet of the calorifier, thus ensuring water delivered to the shower and hot taps is delivered at a somewhat safer and lower temperature.

 

Legionella can develop in any standing water if left for a few days, so shower heads on boats should be sterilised if not used daily by either running water at 65°C or over for 11 minutes or immersing the head in a solution of bleach and thoroughly rinsing.

[Prof]

We have a standard domestic thermostatic shower mixer on our boat, and it's a great improvement over the hot/cold tap version it replaced. it does not have a bath outlet as we have shower only, but is very similar to the one below which HAS a bath outlet.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modern-Thermostatic-Bath-Shower-Mixer-Tap-Deck-Mounted-Shower-Valve-Shower-Kit-/221764146837