philsimo Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Can anyone offer some advise on an oil leak I`ve found on my Lister lpw4, after running the engine oil appears from a hole directly under the crankshaft pulley. I thought it may be pressure release and so checked the oil level and sure enough had to remove over half a pint to get the level right. After running the engine again the same problem occurred, am I right in thinking the hole is for pressure release? if not any ideas. Many Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonesthenuke Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 (edited) Do you mean the oil level is too high? if so start looking for a diesel leak. Not familiar with that engine, if the injector lines leak does the fuel end up in the oil? Edited July 12, 2016 by jonesthenuke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsimo Posted July 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Do you mean the oil level is too high? if so start looking for a diesel leak. Not familiar with that engine, if the injector lines leak does the fuel end up in the oil? The oil level was too high, I suspect it has been like that since the last service ( the engine doesn't get run very often) the level is now between the marks on the dipstick but oil is still leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 Can you describe this hole? There is a blanking plug on the front, at the bottom with a hexagonal socket Otherwise, I would expect a leak below the pulley to be due to a failed oil seal Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 The injector pumps and pipes are external so unless a pump is leaking from the bottom it is less likely to be oil dilution such as one would get on the SL/SR range. The oil pressure relief vale is internal and I think it is part of the oil pump (don't quote me n that). Unless a bolt or screw has fallen out there should be no holes below the crankshaft pulley and i would expect the pulley spigot the be sealed with a lip seal so no hole. Although access is likely to be difficult I think a good clean up and inspection using a torch and mirror may be the next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 The injector pumps and pipes are external so unless a pump is leaking from the bottom it is less likely to be oil dilution such as one would get on the SL/SR range. True, although the lift pump is just as likely to be a problem as on an SR The oil pressure relief vale is internal and I think it is part of the oil pump (don't quote me n that). Correct! It is screwed into the back of the oil pump, inside the sump Unless a bolt or screw has fallen out there should be no holes below the crankshaft pulley and i would expect the pulley spigot the be sealed with a lip seal so no hole. The end cover has no holes I can think of. The crankcase has a drain plug down on the bottom edge, sometimes accessible through a hole in the front mounting bracket. There is indeed a lip seal running on an extension of the crankshaft Although access is likely to be difficult I think a good clean up and inspection using a torch and mirror may be the next step. I'd agree with that! A picture of the area would help too Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsimo Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Thanks for the reply`s, as an update, my son came to the boat today to have a look and informs me that although the oil looks like it is coming from the small hole, it is coming from above which is directly behind the pulleys. Looks like the crankshaft seal needs replacing, anyone know how difficult changing the seal may be? also any tips would be more than welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Pretty easy Remove the drive belts(s) for the alternator(s) Remove the bolt from the centre of the pulley. It is tight and a LEFT HAND THREAD. You can lock the flywheel through the hole in the side of the flywheel housing Remove the pulley - it has a shallow bore on the back that sits on the end of the crankshaft Remove the end cover Swap the oil seal You need the correct thickness gasket to seal the end cover to the engine - there are two thicknesses. What does Haynes say - 'refitting is the reverse of this sequence'? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsimo Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Thanks a lot Richard, spoke to marine engine services late this afternoon and i will order the parts in the morning, appreciate your help. How would I know which thickness gasket is required, does it depend on the date of manufacture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Thanks a lot Richard, spoke to marine engine services late this afternoon and i will order the parts in the morning, appreciate your help. How would I know which thickness gasket is required, does it depend on the date of manufacture? Build number from the data plate It was me moving a gearbox about when you called! Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 If it is any help I have a (Pdf) "Lister LPWS4 Master Parts Manual" Showing 'exploded drawings' and parts. 258 pages in 5 languages. happy to email it if you PM me with an email address. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsimo Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Thanks Richard, I suppose I should have known but it was a surprise for me to find that MES had changed hands, nice to see the customer service can still be relied upon. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Thanks Richard, I suppose I should have known but it was a surprise for me to find that MES had changed hands, nice to see the customer service can still be relied upon. Phil Thank you. We do try, Peter and Chris are a hard act to follow! Incidentally, this is the gearbox I was moving: It's a two speed reversing gearbox out of a narrow gauge loco. It arrived with a bit of a problem with the input shaft (the rear one) Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsimo Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Looks a tad worn, at least it wasn't too hard to diagnose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Looks a tad worn, at least it wasn't too hard to diagnose I like those sort of problems Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Pretty easy Remove the drive belts(s) for the alternator(s) Remove the bolt from the centre of the pulley. It is tight and a LEFT HAND THREAD. You can lock the flywheel through the hole in the side of the flywheel housing Remove the pulley - it has a shallow bore on the back that sits on the end of the crankshaft Remove the end cover Swap the oil seal You need the correct thickness gasket to seal the end cover to the engine - there are two thicknesses. What does Haynes say - 'refitting is the reverse of this sequence'? Richard It is possible the end cover is dowelled/pegged to the engine to ensure it correctly lines up. If so fine but if its just the bolts holding it I would put all the bolts in loosely and before tightening any fit the crankshaft pulley. This helps get the seal perfectly concentric with the pulley. Then tighten all the bolts equally and a little at a time. Now I could be wrong and if so Richard will come and tell us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 There are two roll pins that act as dowels Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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