Wiring diagram required for rotary cam changeover switch

[Starcoaster]

Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram for a four-way AC rotary cam changeover switch please?

 

One of these:

 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

[alan_fincher]

If you look at Amazon review here it shows.....

The title says 4 positions and 6 terminals so I guessed at what the action was and I was correct. Would of been nice if it was in the description but anyway, here it is.
Pos. 0, all terminals open.
Pos. 1, connects T-1 to T-2 only
Pos. 2, connects T-3 to T-4 only
Pos. 3, connects T-5 to T-6 only

EDITED TO ADD:

I'm not sure I understand all the stuff about a whole list of different current ratings, with different numbers like (Apparently) 20A, 15A, 7.5A and even just 1.5A, but some of those numbers are hardly big (!) What is it intended to use it for?

Edited June 30, 2016 by alan_fincher

[Robbo]

You'll need at least a 2pole device, wired as follows.

 

 

Image from Blueseas site.

Edited June 30, 2016 by Robbo

[Starcoaster]

It's to change a boat's AC power supply over between say, shoreline, genset etc.

Edited June 30, 2016 by Starcoaster

[alan_fincher]

It's to change a boat's AC power supply over between say, shoreline, genset etc.

 

Hard to see why you would want "either","or" or "off" then, though that doesn't rule it out, as you can just ignore the extra position, (although maybe that is for "Inverter" ?)

 

You need to get to the bottom of what the garbled information on current handling actually means, though.

 

I would suggest if it can't handle at least 16 amps at 240v AC on any terminals you plan to use, irrespective of whether resistive or inductive loads, then it is possibly not up to the job. The data is confusing, but I think it is possible it may not actually be beefy enough, depending on what exactly might get supplied through it.

[nicknorman]

Also it's important that it's "break before make" ie it disconnects one source before connecting another as the switch is rotated, as opposed to "make before break" which would momentarily connect the sources together as the switch is rotated - causing a large bang and escape of magic smoke! Typically one wants the former for ac mains and the latter for DC. Bearing in mind the low current rating and high voltage rating it is probably the former but I'd want to be sure.

[Loafer]

I'm staying out of this one! (Oops)

[Nickhlx]

The current ratings refer to when feeding different loads, e.g. motors, which have a switch on surge for a short period. Motors are wound differently for various applications, and take surges for different periods of time as they start up. I would take the least current spec as "continuous" ( which is what you would need for shoreline work) which makes this switch not suited to the need. As said, you need a 16 amp capable switch for your application, and "break before make".

 

Nick

 

The Farnell part finder brings up something close

 

http://uk.farnell.com/eaton-moeller/to-3-15423-ez/cam-switch-co/dp/175362?aa=true&ost=rotary+mains+switch&vw=&selectedCategoryId=&categoryId=700000006209&eq=N%3D204026%2B2031%26amp%3BNtk%3Ddesc_pn%26amp%3BNtt%3Drotary%2Bmains%2Bswitch%26amp%3BNtx%3Drel%2Bgensearch_store_specific%252cstatic%2528P_STORE_MARKETING_RANK_FARNELL_UK%252cascending%2529%2Bmode%2Bmatchpartialmax%26amp%3BNty%3D1%26amp%3BNtpc%3D1%26amp%3BNtpr%3D1%26amp%3BD%3Drotary%2Bmains%2Bswitch*%26amp%3BDn%3D2031%2B2031%26amp%3BDx%3Dmode%2Bmatchall&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false

Edited June 30, 2016 by Nickhlx

[Nickhlx]

I would have thought a Ships Chandlers would have something appropriate, if not "cheap".

 

If you want "less expensive, but adequate", you could have a row of 13 A sockets ( or 16 A sockets) wired to each "source", and a plug to plug "the boat" into the source that is appropriate. (It would certainly be break before make !)

 

Nick

[raymondh]

Blue Sea and others are made by Kraus & Naimer who sell through most electrical factors inc RS

 

There are always some on ebay with ratings up to and over 60 amps

 

They have a web site

 

Ray

[Starcoaster]

Thanks for all the comments-so to be clear, is this device definitely not up to the job and I will need an alternative, or is that personal opinion/additional suggestions?

[nicknorman]

Thanks for all the comments-so to be clear, is this device definitely not up to the job and I will need an alternative, or is that personal opinion/additional suggestions?

No it is definitely not right for the job. According to post #2 it has a single pole connected at each position. For switching mains I suggest you want double pole (ie to switch the neutral as well as the live) and this is especially the case if you have an NE bond on the inverter. With an NE bond and that switch, you would have the shore neutral connected to earth which is a great way to trip the bollard RCD instantly.

 

Just my personal opinion. But of course I know I'm right!

[GUMPY]

Thanks for all the comments-so to be clear, is this device definitely not up to the job and I will need an alternative, or is that personal opinion/additional suggestions?

For switching between inverter and shoreline I have used this in the past

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTARY-CAM-SWITCH-3-POSITION-CHANGE-OVER-25-32-OR-63AMP-4POLE-PANEL-MOUNT-/331117255588?var=&hash=item0

[WotEver]

Thanks for all the comments-so to be clear, is this device definitely not up to the job and I will need an alternative, or is that personal opinion/additional suggestions?

It is definitely not suitable. Yes, you will need an alternative.

 

This is my personal opinion but, like Nick, I know I'm right.

 

Tony

[RLWP]

Hmmm, I suspect that this is, in the words of a famous boatbuilder, 'Not for Girls'

 

Richard

[Nickhlx]

A braver man than me !

[Starcoaster]

Thanks all, I have fed back the results and my opinion as asked based on the info here!

Was I listened to?

Still, I did my due diligence! Many thanks.

[Iain_S]

For switching between inverter and shoreline I have used this in the past

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROTARY-CAM-SWITCH-3-POSITION-CHANGE-OVER-25-32-OR-63AMP-4POLE-PANEL-MOUNT-/331117255588?var=&hash=item0

 

I used one of these for switching between a generator and shore power. I remember I couldn't work out the wiring from the supplied leaflet, and resorted to drawing the internal connections, as revealed by my trusty multimeter. It needed a couple of links as well, on the "downstream" connections.

[MtB]

I'm staying out of this one! (Oops)

 

 

Me too, as I've no eye deer what a rotary cam changeover switch is...

 

(Je suis terribly naïve about such things.)

Edited July 1, 2016 by Mike the Boilerman

[alan_fincher]

Thanks for all the comments-so to be clear, is this device definitely not up to the job and I will need an alternative, or is that personal opinion/additional suggestions?

 

If what you are looking at only switches one pole it is not up to the job.

 

You definitely need a switch that switches both the live and the neutral.

 

(Fact)

 

Even the suggestion of a series of sockets for each of the sources, and a plug on a flying lead connected to the boat's 240v electrics that you plug into the one you want to use is a much better solution than a switch that only switches the live.

 

(Personal opinion, but still correct!)

[Arthur Brown]

The shrinking series of current capacities usually relates to surge handling especially with slow starting AC Motors which may take 10 x I_th for up to 10 seconds.

 

Remember also that your 240v electrical system needs one and only one N-E reference connection, two and the RCDs will nuisance trip (maybe instantly) and no N-E bond and the RCDs simply will not work leaving you less protected than you thought.

 

Mains coming in will be N-E bonded, your inverter and generator may well not be.

 

Smartgage website has a whole page of notes on this.

[ditchcrawler]

I stay out of anything 240 volt other than say unplug it. get it wrong and it can bite you.

[Arthur Brown]

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/nb_ac_sys.html

[Chewbacka]

Just a reminder for when working on your power selector switch.

If the inverter and shore power supplies are both live, there is no reason for them to be in phase with each other and so could in the worst case be 100% out of phase. In this case the voltage between both supplies and earth will always be 240VAC but the peak voltage between the two supply wires will be as high as 600V

[jonathanA]

Farnell will have the right switch but not particularly cheap, well cheap compared to chandlers !!

 

Sometimes they come up on flea bay but make sure they are what you need so check the descriptions carefully. Two pole as a minimum but if you can get a 3 pole then you can be clever about making sure things like chargers and immersion heaters can only be used when your on shore or genny power.