Painting the front and rear decks and gunwales

[tonyt40]

Hi

 

I am a newbie to narrowboat and having spent hours searching paint have come to no definitive decision on what to use. I am looking to paint my front and rear decks next week. What products are you using to paint them? I am aware of deck paint but not keen on the rough finish, likewise I don't want to use enamel and slip and break my neck!

 

I have read about the Andy Russell stuff which I intend to use on the gunwale. Is this suitable for use on the deck?

 

I have emailed Andy Russell to ask about prep (primer /undercoat) prior to painting but not had a response yet. Have you guys used it and what primer / undercoat did you use to prepare the surface.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

[Bloomsberry]

I use the deck stuff, the rough bits are to stop you slipping which is important.

 

The deck area gets walked on regularly so is going to get dirty anyway so I wouldn't waste too much time worrying about it's appearance.

[dave moore]

Hi Tony

 

Our cabin top, decks etc are all painted in raddle red, a development of the red oxide paint used on working boats. Craftmaster paints offer a wide range of colours if the original colour doesn't appeal. Please bear in mind that this comes from a long term boater, somewhat right of Ghengis Khan where things traditional are concerned and also active in the boat painting business. Feel free to ignore if you have other ideas!

 

Dave

[matty40s]

On my own boat I use Danboline red for the front and back decks. It is hard wearing and the colour lasts well. For non slip, I use oven baked sand mixed in the first coat.

[Claude]

I like Interdeck as it's easy to apply and get a decent finish. The PBO article wasn't so keen.

 

http://www.pbo.co.uk/event/beaulieu-boatjumble/deck-paints-test-17514

I am looking to paint my front and rear decks next week. What products are you using to paint them? I am aware of deck paint but not keen on the rough finish...

 

As others have said, the rough finish is used for a reason.

[GoodGurl]

i did our roof with rylard grey and sprinkled it with glass blowers sand, no rust issues yet, seems to have lasted well.

[tonyt40]

Hi Tony

Our cabin top, decks etc are all painted in raddle red, a development of the red oxide paint used on working boats. Craftmaster paints offer a wide range of colours if the original colour doesn't appeal. Please bear in mind that this comes from a long term boater, somewhat right of Ghengis Khan where things traditional are concerned and also active in the boat painting business. Feel free to ignore if you have other ideas!

Dave

Do you add anything to it to improve slip resistance or use it as it is?

[dave moore]

We use it as it is, except for sanding the gunwales. I've never had a problem with slipping. So far!

 

Dave

[ditchcrawler]

Our roof and gunwales are painted with Epifains its not rough its not glossy and I have never slipped on it. I climb down onto the roof in most of the locks we descend and so far have never had a problem, but I do wear good footwear for boating all the time.

[harleyj]

Our roof and gunwales are painted with Epifains its not rough its not glossy and I have never slipped on it. I climb down onto the roof in most of the locks we descend and so far have never had a problem, but I do wear good footwear for boating all the time.

Off topic, but what footwear do you use?

[bizzard]

To be safe and sure of a good and everlasting grip stick Velcro all over the boat, entirely with the mating Velcro stuck on your feet.

[dmr]

Note a possibly terminology issue here.

Most boaters use the term "gunwhale" to refer to the bit down the side of the boat that you walk on. Correctly its the vertical side of the hull above the top rubbing strake (which is correctly called the guard iron) and the bit that boaters call the gunwhale. Andy Russells paint is brilliant for the side bit, I don't know what its like for the top bit.

 

I did my front (well) deck and "top gunwhales" in primer and Craftmaster Raddle and "side gunwhales" in Andy Russell. The top gunwhales are fine but just a little slippy in the wet, the well deck did not do so well due to the "dog claw emergency stops" as she jumps onto the boat, these went right thru' to bare metal.

 

My current method is this (and I expect some ridicule from the forum here).......

Side Gunwhale in Andy Russell

Top Gunwhale still in Craftmaster but with a coat of BondaPrimer on top (more non slip, a bit less "pink")

Front Deck, back to bare metal, several coats of Armourguard Epoxy Primer with a coat of Bondaprimer on top.

 

The roof remains in Craftmaster Raddle.

 

................Dave

[JamesWoolcock]

Hi

 

I am a newbie to narrowboat and having spent hours searching paint have come to no definitive decision on what to use. I am looking to paint my front and rear decks next week. What products are you using to paint them? I am aware of deck paint but not keen on the rough finish, likewise I don't want to use enamel and slip and break my neck!

 

I have read about the Andy Russell stuff which I intend to use on the gunwale. Is this suitable for use on the deck?

 

I have emailed Andy Russell to ask about prep (primer /undercoat) prior to painting but not had a response yet. Have you guys used it and what primer / undercoat did you use to prepare the surface.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

Just try floor paint. It's non slip by nature.

Tile Red gives you the 'Red Oxide' look.

And it's cheap !

But like all paints it wears with the weather.

Something impervious as an undercoat is good. Damboline?

But non-slip is the key

 

James

[Athy]

Another vote for Craftmaster raddle red, which we have used on our well deck, roof and rear deck for some years.

AVOID so-called floor paint. I used this, on recommendation, when I was freshening up an old narrowboat. What a nightmare! Despite extensive sanding down and preparation, it just would not stay on for more than a few weeks, it would peel off in large lumps.

[Claude]

Just try floor paint. It's non slip by nature.

Tile Red gives you the 'Red Oxide' look.

And it's cheap !

 

 

The trouble with a lot of cheap "domestic" paints is that they're not flexible enough to cope with the thermal expansion and contraction of steel and so they crack or peel. It's often a false economy.

Edited May 8, 2016 by Claude

[David Schweizer]

Note a possibly terminology issue here.

Most boaters use the term "gunwhale" to refer to the bit down the side of the boat that you walk on. Correctly its the vertical side of the hull above the top rubbing strake (which is correctly called the guard iron) and the bit that boaters call the gunwhale. Andy Russells paint is brilliant for the side bit, I don't know what its like for the top bit.

 

I did my front (well) deck and "top gunwhales" in primer and Craftmaster Raddle and "side gunwhales" in Andy Russell. The top gunwhales are fine but just a little slippy in the wet, the well deck did not do so well due to the "dog claw emergency stops" as she jumps onto the boat, these went right thru' to bare metal.

 

My current method is this (and I expect some ridicule from the forum here).......

Side Gunwhale in Andy Russell

Top Gunwhale still in Craftmaster but with a coat of BondaPrimer on top (more non slip, a bit less "pink")

Front Deck, back to bare metal, several coats of Armourguard Epoxy Primer with a coat of Bondaprimer on top.

 

The roof remains in Craftmaster Raddle.

 

................Dave

 

I would not normally challenge the content of a post as highlighted above, but as it is in response to an enquiry from a "newbie " I feel that the "possible terminology issue" needs to be addressed.

 

I would wish to challenge the names you assign to some narrow boat hull components, i have always known the horizontal section located on top of a narrow boat hull side as the gunwale, something which is borne out by historical evidence in narrow boat drawings from almost a hundred years ago. As far as I know the term originates from old fighting ships, where a strip of timber (a Wale) was fixed to the top sides where a gun could be rested

 

I have also always known the section above the top guard iron, which you suggest is called the "gunwhale", as the top side plank, often short handed to "top plank", although this abbreviation can cause confusion with the top planks which are located on top of the stands in the hold of a Narrow Boat. I have also always known the section of top side plank which curves upwards to form the bow as the "Top Bend"

 

Oh and at the risk of being pedantic, the correct spelling is Gunwale, not "Gunwhale"

Edited May 8, 2016 by David Schweizer

[Tony Brooks]

I have Protectacote on the side walkways because it has rubber granules in it to give a non-slip surface but It repaint the tumblehome above the top rubbing band and walkways once a year with any black gloss paint. It has yet to crack. after over 10 years. The front well deck was done in Protectacote but rust eventually got under it so like my back deck that is now done in floor paint to which I added some Hemple ant-slip powder.

 

The roof is also in Protectacote overpainted every few years. Originally with Raddle grey (shed its pigment horribly), then floor paint and latterly with an oil based "semi-matt" paint from CrownDdecorators Centres. That ahs yet to crack as well.

 

The black sacrificial paint used above the top rubbing band has been all sorts including Wilco, Toolfix, something from our local engineering suppliers and brand name stuff.

[Athy]

 

The trouble with a lot of cheap "domestic" paints is that they're not flexible enough to cope with the thermal expansion and contraction of steel and so they crack or peel. It's often a false economy.

Eureka! Thanks for explaining. That must be what happened to my paint on the roof of the little Springer. It was sold as "garage floor paint" and I can't remember who recommended it to me, though it was certainly a boater so he must have kept his boat's roof at pretty much a constant temperature. I shan't make that mistake again - have a greeno for your information.

Oh, and to add insult to injury, it wasn't especially cheap either.

Edited May 8, 2016 by Athy

[Guest]

Another vote for Craftmaster raddle red, which we have used on our well deck, roof and rear deck for some years.

AVOID so-called floor paint. I used this, on recommendation, when I was freshening up an old narrowboat. What a nightmare! Despite extensive sanding down and preparation, it just would not stay on for more than a few weeks, it would peel off in large lumps.

The older garage floor paints were fine when oil based and I always used it (I used International.). Mostly water based these days and a load of sh1t. There are two pack floor paints etc but probably just as cheap to buy Raddle or something proper.

Edited May 8, 2016 by Guest

[Jrtm]

 

The trouble with a lot of cheap "domestic" paints is that they're not flexible enough to cope with the thermal expansion and contraction of steel and so they crack or peel. It's often a false economy.

Get a wooden boat then ;-)

[tonyt40]

Got a reply from Andy Russell. He says use smooth Hammerite as the undercoat for his gunwale paint. I'm going to use Raddle black on the decks as Dave Moore's recommendation. I'll finish the bathroom this week and then on with the painting. Time to order some materials me thinks.

[ditchcrawler]

Off topic, but what footwear do you use?

Panama Jack's here is a link but available elsewhere http://www.soletrader.co.uk/panama-jack-basic-boots/pj0201bn/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwx7u5BRC1lePz2biJpIYBEiQA-ZeDmhIJNHVxhZL_FSHaDiJhhdTLziw860iXmf9buyherckaApni8P8HAQ