Fuel additives - report

[pearley]

As the diesel in the engine mounted filters on the engine and the generator both comes out clean, then I'll stick with the stainless mesh in the Wasps. They get cleaned every 400 hours and the engine filters replaced.

 

Hopefully when I get to Market Drayton I can get some filters for the gennie at a better price than Cummins. Probably have to give them a bit of notice.

[Keeping Up]

I am sure polishing can be effective if the right equipment is used, but I think most of the kit out there is inadequate. As some here will have read, last summer we had severe bug problems after someone stole half our fuel during the winter, and the emulsifier that I've always used couldn't cope with the effects.

 

We had the fuel polished at Braunston but it wasn't done well enough. Despite 4 hours of filtering there was apparently enough water &/or bug residue that it came back. The tank was drained and flushed at Norbury but again the bug came back. Finally the tank was steam cleaned at Stourport, and that cured it.

 

My neighbour's boat had exactly the same problems (presumably the fuel was stolen from both boats at the same time) but theirs was polished on-site by Tankbusters who have vastly superior filtration equipment. After a few hours and several expensive consumable filters their fuel was clean and clear and the problems did not return. I wish I'd found Tankbusters sooner instead of going up to Braunston, we might not have had such problems during the summer.

[plainsman]

I have a drain tap on my tank would, opening this allow water and stuff to be removed from the tank as opposed to sucking it out, or is not as simple as I think?

[Tony Brooks]

I have a drain tap on my tank would, opening this allow water and stuff to be removed from the tank as opposed to sucking it out, or is not as simple as I think?

 

As most narrowboats trim down by the stern and that drain tap tends to be at the front then it must always leave some water in the tank. Also you may well find that it is raised from the bottom of the tank by the thickness of the pipe/fitting wall that would leave even more water behind.

 

Older cruiser built when good practice was important tended to have a little sump in the tank with the drain right in the bottom so as much water as possible could be drained.

 

Anything that removes water is better than nothing but I would advocate draining as much a you can by the drain and then either syphoning as much more as you can or use an emulsifying additive.

 

The effectiveness of the drain is all down to design.

 

[cuthound]

I have a drain tap on my tank would, opening this allow water and stuff to be removed from the tank as opposed to sucking it out, or is not as simple as I think?

Depends on the valve arrangements.

 

My boat has a bottom of tank drain that simply terminates in a plug. It is okay to open this when the fuel level is very low, to drain water and other crap out, however, if attempted with a full tank the head of fuel provides plenty of pressure, which makes getting the plug back on difficult. (Don't ask me how I know this).

 

When I get a round tuit I will modify the pipework to include a ball valve before the plug, so that the flow can be easily turned off.

[swift1894]

Am I the only person on this forum that uses Startron Enzyme Fuel Treatment?

[Tony Brooks]

Am I the only person on this forum that uses Startron Enzyme Fuel Treatment?

 

I do not think it matters much what fuel treatment you use as long as you know how it works. The enzyme bit probably refers to the breaking down of the bug cell walls but beyond that its action is not clear from the name. If its a demulsifier then you need to know so you can arrange to drain the tank. If its an emulsifier then if you have been using it for a while it will probably need nothing more doing to it.

 

Several suppliers on the Thames sell it so there must be a lot more boats using it.

[john6767]

Depends on the valve arrangements.

 

My boat has a bottom of tank drain that simply terminates in a plug. It is okay to open this when the fuel level is very low, to drain water and other crap out, however, if attempted with a full tank the head of fuel provides plenty of pressure, which makes getting the plug back on difficult. (Don't ask me how I know this).

 

When I get a round tuit I will modify the pipework to include a ball valve before the plug, so that the flow can be easily turned off.

I can second that, I tried draining ours via the drain plug once, never again.

 

The drain on ours is formed by a piece of angle welded across the swim, so that comes out of the front of the tank, and I don't know for certain that where it joins to the tank there is not a lip that means it is not draining at the absolute bottom of the tank. The filler is at close to the rear of the tank, and with a plastic pipe attached to piece of wood I know the bottom of the pipe is on the bottom of that tank, which seems practically the bast that you can achieve.

[swift1894]

I do not think it matters much what fuel treatment you use as long as you know how it works. The enzyme bit probably refers to the breaking down of the bug cell walls but beyond that its action is not clear from the name. If its a demulsifier then you need to know so you can arrange to drain the tank. If its an emulsifier then if you have been using it for a while it will probably need nothing more doing to it.

 

Looks like it's an EMulsifier

 

Description

Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment is a multi-functional fuel additive which uses a unique enzyme technology that allows all engines to start easily and run smoothly, even after sitting idle for months.

 

Star Tron® eliminates and prevents fuel problems. Star Tron breaks down excess water and sludge to sub-micron size, allowing it to be safely burned away during normal engine operation.

 

Star Tron was rated “Best Choice” in an independent review of the seven most popular diesel treatments that guard against fuel-tank corrosion. Star Tron also helps control biological growth without the use of poisons/biocides. (Practical-Sailor August 2013)

 

Star Tron® increases fuel economy by cleaning the entire fuel delivery system, removing performance robbing gum and varnish deposits while modifying how fuel burns. This results in more complete and uniform combustion, maximum performance, increased fuel efficiency, reduced emissions and reliable operation. Star Tron eliminates carbon build-up from burners, injectors and exhaust components.

 

Star Tron will stabilize fuel for up to two years, preventing the formation of gums and other solids that clog fuel injectors. Star Tron can help rejuvenate old and sub-spec fuel.

 

Star Tron is safe for all engines and overdosing is not harmful.

 

Available in four convenient concentrations for both gas and diesel.

Each oz. of 931XX Super Concentrate Diesel Formula treats up to 32 gallons of fuel.

Features

 

Helps increase fuel economy

1 fl. oz. treats 32 gallons of diesel fuel

Makes engines start easier, run smoother

Cannot be overdosed

Disperses bacteria without the use of poisons/biocides

Reduces all emissions, including carcinogenic, particulate smoke – eliminates diesel soot

Stabilizes diesel fuel for up to two years

Lowers fuel system maintenance

Eliminates carbon build-up from burners, injectors and exhaust components

[churchward]

The reason for the cleaner engine is the use of biodiesel. It is quite an effective solvent for carbon. People who have run old diesels on pure bio have reported the need to change oil filters frequently until the carbon has been disolved. This is one reason why current diesel is only 7% bio, with plans to gradually increase the bio content.

I agree about bio fuel but this was before it was available in canal supplies. Fuelset does also contain some solvent/detegent like additives that does thee same.

[churchward]

 

 

I doubt Churchward will have any bug problems as long a she keeps using Fuelset because no water means bug struggle and die.

She??

 

Now with advancing years some things are wearing out and dropping off but last time I looked I still had a full set down there!

[plainsman]

 

As most narrowboats trim down by the stern and that drain tap tends to be at the front then it must always leave some water in the tank. Also you may well find that it is raised from the bottom of the tank by the thickness of the pipe/fitting wall that would leave even more water behind.

 

Older cruiser built when good practice was important tended to have a little sump in the tank with the drain right in the bottom so as much water as possible could be drained.

 

Anything that removes water is better than nothing but I would advocate draining as much a you can by the drain and then either syphoning as much more as you can or use an emulsifying additive.

 

The effectiveness of the drain is all down to design.

 

 

My drain is right at the bottom of the tank with a gate valve followed by a square head plug so the outlet can be controlled. It does produce water and debris on occasion but I note your suggestion of 'back up' with a syphone. Thanks for tip