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12 volt fridge?


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That fridge will use 60ah per day which is pretty high for a fridge now a days so I hope you have a good method of charging your batteries. It would be more beneficial to get a proper fridge rather than just a fridge box, unless your just using it whilst the engine is running for day cruises, etc.

 

What length cables will they need to be?

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That fridge will use 60ah per day which is pretty high for a fridge now a days so I hope you have a good method of charging your batteries. It would be more beneficial to get a proper fridge rather than just a fridge box, unless your just using it whilst the engine is running for day cruises, etc.

What length cables will they need to be?

Thanks,its Weacom fridge box with a 30w danfloss compressor its not like a camping fridge box·

I think I will probaby need about 5 meters of cable.

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I think you will find that your 'fridge box' is nothing more than a 'cooler' and you need to have things cold before you put them in. Unless I am very mistaken as to exactly what you have then these are basically designed to take cold stuff home from the shops (plugged into your car cigarette lighter) until you can get it properly stored into a proper fridge.

 

They consume vast amounts of electricity (OK if you have the car engine running) and do nothing to actually cool the contents.

 

It will consume 60Ah per day ( that's more than should be supplied by a 110 Ah battery) whilst a 'proper' 12v fridge will only use 40Ah per day.

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Its this one http://www.waecofridges.co.uk/freezer/cdf25.htmI think you are right.

What cheap fridge can I get that runs on 12v please?

From that spec it is a compressor fridge. There is no such thing as a cheap 12 volt fridge, you sometimes see second hand one advertised in Towpath Talk

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Its this one http://www.waecofridges.co.uk/freezer/cdf25.htmI think you are right.

What cheap fridge can I get that runs on 12v please?

Okay if that's the one you have then it's not one of the cheap ones and uses a decent compressor, if it's big enough for you then any other 12v fridge will just use more amps. This one uses around 12ah a day.

 

Use 6mm2 or 8mm2 cable.

Edited by Robbo
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Use 6mm2 or 8mm2 cable.

 

Thanks for that, Ive looked it up but cant find this, any idea what amp cable it is? Thanks

Just first hit, much more on e bay also in short lengths http://www.limefarmmarina.co.uk/

Use 6mm2 or 8mm2 cable.

 

Thanks for that, Ive looked it up but cant find this, any idea what amp cable it is? Thanks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autoleads-red-power-cable-6mm-sq-dia-4mm-super-flex-copper-oxygen-free-per-mtr-/281993309325?hash=item41a81c6c8d:m:ma5aRqiln8cY84uu3gsk-bA

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Use 6mm2 or 8mm2 cable.

 

Thanks for that, Ive looked it up but cant find this, any idea what amp cable it is? Thanks

 

mm2 just means the equivalent cross section in square millimetres.

 

12V compressor fridges take a high start up current and are very fussy about voltage, so correct cable size and decent connections are critical.

 

Usual rule of thumb for these is 1 mm2 of cable cross section for each metre between fridge and batts. So a fridge 7m from batts would need at least 7mm2 of cable cross section, this would require 10mm2 cable in practice as that's the next size up.

 

If the cable size is marginal, there is a way of lowering the cutout voltage of the fridge, though it won't help if the wiring is a basket case. help.gif

 

The manufacturers installation instructions will cover all this plus the required fuse size, so it'd be worth trying to get a copy.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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mm2 just means the equivalent cross section in square millimetres.

 

12V compressor fridges take a high start up current and are very fussy about voltage, so correct cable size and decent connections are critical.

 

Usual rule of thumb for these is 1 mm2 of cable cross section for each metre between fridge and batts. So a fridge 7m from batts would need at least 7mm2 of cable cross section, this would require 10mm2 cable in practice as that's the next size up.

 

If the cable size is marginal, there is a way of lowering the cutout voltage of the fridge, though it won't help if the wiring is a basket case. help.gif

 

The manufacturers installation instructions will cover all this plus the required fuse size, so it'd be worth trying to get a copy.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

As this unit is supplied with a lead and lighter type plug for use in a car then maybe it has a much lower starting current. I don't know if this is the case, just a thought

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As this unit is supplied with a lead and lighter type plug for use in a car then maybe it has a much lower starting current. I don't know if this is the case, just a thought

 

Might have lower cut out voltage.

 

May well have an internal fuse already, IF so then it just needs another fuse at the batt end to protect the cable.

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Might have lower cut out voltage.

 

May well have an internal fuse already, IF so then it just needs another fuse at the batt end to protect the cable.

From the add.

 

Edit

 

and has a compressor with integrated control electronics, low-voltage protection adjustable for leisure or starter battery by means of a slide switch, electronic fuse/automatic reverse pole protection, dynamically ventilated wire tube condenser, aluminium rollbond evaporator,detachable fold-up lid, sturdy carrying handle, vertical space for standing 2-litre bottles.

 

Just read the manual but can't copy the graph of cable run/cross sect area

 

Battery operation Your cooling device can be operated with 12 V or 24 V direct voltage. Prior to connection check whether the voltage indication on the type plate is in accordance with the battery voltage. Connect your cooling device as directly as possilbe to the poles of the battery or to a plug connection with at least 15 A fuse. Pay attention that the plus wire is connected on to the positive pole and the minus one to the negative pole. In order to avoid loss of voltage and thus decrease of performance, the cable should be as short as possible and not interrupted. For this reason avoid additional switches, plugs or feeder boxes. If the connecting cable is too short or does not belong to the delivery scope of your model, you have to buy a corresponding cable or an extension by specilized dealers. Determine the required cable cross section by means of the following schedule. Here you find the necessary wire cross section Note: High-speed battery chargers may only be connected to the battery after the cooling device and all other consumers have been disconnected from the battery. Overvoltage could cause damage to the electronics of the units. The appliance takes a small amount of idle current. Always disconnect it from the energy source when not in use. Your cooling device is equipped with a reverse battery protection. It protects your cooling device against reverse battery by battery connection and against short circuit. As a protection for your battery, the cooling device switches off automatically if the voltage is not sufficient. Your will find the cut-out/cut-in voltages in the Technical data.

Edited by ditchcrawler
  • Greenie 1
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Battery operation Your cooling device can be operated with 12 V or 24 V direct voltage. Prior to connection check whether the voltage indication on the type plate is in accordance with the battery voltage. Connect your cooling device as directly as possilbe to the poles of the battery or to a plug connection with at least 15 A fuse. Pay attention that the plus wire is connected on to the positive pole and the minus one to the negative pole. In order to avoid loss of voltage and thus decrease of performance, the cable should be as short as possible and not interrupted. For this reason avoid additional switches, plugs or feeder boxes. If the connecting cable is too short or does not belong to the delivery scope of your model, you have to buy a corresponding cable or an extension by specilized dealers. Determine the required cable cross section by means of the following schedule. Here you find the necessary wire cross section Note: High-speed battery chargers may only be connected to the battery after the cooling device and all other consumers have been disconnected from the battery. Overvoltage could cause damage to the electronics of the units. The appliance takes a small amount of idle current. Always disconnect it from the energy source when not in use. Your cooling device is equipped with a reverse battery protection. It protects your cooling device against reverse battery by battery connection and against short circuit. As a protection for your battery, the cooling device switches off automatically if the voltage is not sufficient. Your will find the cut-out/cut-in voltages in the Technical data.

 

Good info!

 

If the OP is going to install it and remove the plug, might as well shorten the existing cable if it's rather thin, so all the way back to the batts it's up to spec.

 

Last summer is nearly here and the 12V fridges like good ventilation for the black condenser grid thing. Else they may become more thirsty on the amp hours.... smile.png

Edited by smileypete
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Good info!

 

If the OP is going to install it and remove the plug, might as well shorten the existing cable if it's rather thin, so all the way back to the batts it's up to spec.

 

Last summer is nearly here and the 12V fridges like good ventilation for the black condenser grid thing. Else they may become more thirsty on the amp hours.... :)

The one thing that's confusing me is that the cable attached to the blade fuse holder is very thin is there a different kind I can use?

I used the fridge plugged into the cigarette socket in my van while in Europe and it kicks in for a few minutes every half hour,it's very good and I only need it for milk and a couple of other bits so the size is great.

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The one thing that's confusing me is that the cable attached to the blade fuse holder is very thin is there a different kind I can use?

I used the fridge plugged into the cigarette socket in my van while in Europe and it kicks in for a few minutes every half hour,it's very good and I only need it for milk and a couple of other bits so the size is great.

 

For a permanent install, it would mean a fuse near the battery end protecting the circuit; that being the cable and the fridge.

 

According to Mr Google the Danfoss BD35F in their data sheet specifies a 15A fuse for 12V use:

 

http://www.nccvmtc.org/PDF2/2_083.pdf

Edited by smileypete
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  • 2 years later...

We have one of these connected directly to a 100w solar panel. chills during the day and stays cool overnight. In the winter when cool box is not needed the solar panel is parallel connected to the battery charging panel for extra charging capacity.

 

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