Replacing charge regulator Rutland RWS 200 with...?

[alifraser88]

Hi there,

I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern.

We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine.

 

It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?!

 

I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total).

 

We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up..

 

Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome!

Cheers,
Alistair

[by'eck]

The RWS 200 controller working in your case just with the solar panel seems a crude device dumping excess current to a shunt in an attempt to limit charge voltage once it exceeds 13.8 volts. If there is no wind generator present though up to 200 watts of solar can be accomodated on the wind genny input terminals with output current displayed on meter, otherwise its only 60 watts on solar input terminals. It will also split the output to two separate batteries or banks if required.

 

If you want to replace this controller, especially if you wish to employ more than 200 watts of solar, then a suitable mppt controller would be best. As the engines alternator is a separate charge source it doesn't need to be considered in your mppt controller choice, although it will be connected to the same battery bank.

Edited March 31, 2016 by by'eck

[Arthur Brown]

The engine alternator should have it's own regulator (likely internally) It should connect to the batteries directly.

The solar installation will produce more electricity if fed into a suitable MPPT controller

 

Without a wind turbine you don't want that Rutland regulator in the circuit.

[alifraser88]

Thanks all!

So if an alternator can go straight to the batteries why do people spend hundreds on Sterling Pro chargers and Victrons etc? Are they just for managing battery charging from generators and shore power?
For clarity, this is the alternator we have http://www.dfjauto.com/DFJ010259/VALEO-A13N147M

 

Cheers,
Alistair

[by'eck]

Thanks all!

 

So if an alternator can go straight to the batteries why do people spend hundreds on Sterling Pro chargers and Victrons etc? Are they just for managing battery charging from generators and shore power?

For clarity, this is the alternator we have http://www.dfjauto.com/DFJ010259/VALEO-A13N147M

 

Cheers,

Alistair

 

Because you seem a little confused as to the role of these devices. An engine alternator produces DC current to charge your batteries directly using engine power. Sterling and Victron chargers or Combi's use AC mains to supply roughly the same voltage DC to charge your batteries.

 

Mains chargers powered from shore power when available, or generator allow you to charge your batteries when stationary without inefficiently running your boats engine in neutral.

 

Consequently most boats have both engine alternator(s) and mains chargers.

Edited April 1, 2016 by by'eck

[Arthur Brown]

Chargers turn mains into 12(ish) volts to charge the battery from mains or a 240v generator.

The engine alternator will give you 12(ish) volts to charge the batteries while the engine is running.

SOME engine holes have an after market alternator controller which modifies the intended output from the alternator which may make it charge faster (but may also die faster).

 

A 12v battery will usually run at about 13.2 when fully charged and the alternator is taking the load. When the battery is low the charge voltage may well rise to between 14 and 15.