Pipenslippers Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Having moved from narrow canals to wide, I have found alot more boat movement when moored up using mooring pins, therefore having to readjust pins n rope daily. I try to moor up on piling when possible. Any tips on how to secure the boat better (positioning of mooring pins?), I have a 62 foot, and also use middle rope. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulG Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Having moved from narrow canals to wide, I have found alot more boat movement when moored up using mooring pins, therefore having to readjust pins n rope daily. I try to moor up on piling when possible. Any tips on how to secure the boat better (positioning of mooring pins?), I have a 62 foot, and also use middle rope. Thanks Personally, I wouldn't bother with the middle or centre line if it's attached to your roof. The attachment point it so high up that it just makes the boat heel over when the line tightens. If the gound is soft, I often use two pins on each mooring line, knocking them in at an angle so that they make an 'x'" shape, if you see what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray T Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) In the past on here there have been a variety of suggestions: I'm personally not recommending any of these . Another alternative is longer spikes but care of use is needed with these as there may be optic fibre communication cables in the towpath. Whilst these are usually at the back of the towpath there is no guarantee. Edited March 30, 2016 by Ray T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valrene9600 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Drive in pins tie up. The put another pin through metal loop of pin in ground. Drive it in towards middle of boat. Do both ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeToScarlet Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Longer pins, not toothpicks. Mine on my permanent mooring are 5' long scaffolding poles. For when out and about, we use 3' long pins and a sledgehammer, or normal pins but crossed if we're not staying long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sassan Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Some things I find helpful, others will disagree: Don't do the crossed pins thing, it just tears up the ground and makes it worse. You can add a second pin a couple of feet from the first one. Tie to the first pin, then to the second. Don't use the pins with the eyes, use the ones with just the lip at the top. These can be hammered in further so the rope is pulling closer to the ground (I bash them until the rope is actually embedded in the mud (my ropes are synthetic, probably not good for natural fibres)).. If you use the center line, tie it very loose as an emergency line. If tight it will make you far more uncomfortable as the boat rolls. Position the pins quite a long way from the boat (along the bank). 6ft+ is good. This way, passing boats make your boat slide forward and back instead of in and out. It also means that the pins are being pulled along the bank rather than into the water, making it less likely that they'll rip the bank apart (which is bad for you and bad for the next person). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoat Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Try what Sassan says above - but add a 'spring' at either end - similar to this:- The above is not the best answer - but all I could find quickly. Put your main lines on 1 and 6 taking them forward and rearward as you suggest. attach lines 2 and 5 at 1 and x as best you can (depends on what' on your boat to get in the way.) That should stop you moving in any direction.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob-M Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 I would suggest springs are what you require, I normally take two lines fore and aft about 45° to the boat and put the pins in as far as I can without burying the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swift1894 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) Old Leeds & Liverpool boatman technique. 3 decent pins 1 slightly for'd 1 slightly astern. Then 1 mid ships, close to the boat as possible, lines from this middle pin to for'd and stern bollards, tight. This helps prevent surging back and forth when boats pass. It's that movement which causes most problems. Middle rope on the roof for mooring is just so nonsensical, what does it achieve other than causing boat to heel over? Edited March 30, 2016 by swift1894 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junior Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Mooring with your centre line could be the cause of your problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 If the rope is at more than a 45° angle either horizontal or vertical then it's not helping the boat from not moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Old Leeds & Liverpool boatman technique. 3 decent pins 1 slightly for'd 1 slightly astern. Then 1 mid ships, close to the boat as possible, lines from this middle pin to for'd and stern bollards, tight. This helps prevent surging back and forth when boats pass. It's that movement which causes most problems. Middle rope on the roof for mooring is just so nonsensical, what does it achieve other than causing boat to heel over? Never tried a pin in the middle (yet) but certainly used springs which is a similar idea. I agree forget the centre line (if from roof.) Not the best way to moor (unless it is left slack as has been suggested and is just backup.) Only time we use centre rope to moor is in the marina or similar where we are certain no boats can come past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain_S Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Old Leeds & Liverpool boatman technique. 3 decent pins 1 slightly for'd 1 slightly astern. Then 1 mid ships, close to the boat as possible, lines from this middle pin to for'd and stern bollards, tight. This helps prevent surging back and forth when boats pass. It's that movement which causes most problems. Middle rope on the roof for mooring is just so nonsensical, what does it achieve other than causing boat to heel over? It can be of use if used as a spring to opposite either the bow or stern. Because of the shallower angle, the heeling moment is a lot less, and is even less obtrusive than the grinding against the bank as another speeder goes past I agree the attachment point would be better on the gunwale, but few boats have suitable attachment points there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philjman Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) We have a 60x12 widebeam and use these "ground anchors" which work well for us. They're made by a company called Spyrabase. Not cheap but we think they're worthwhile. Edited April 10, 2016 by philjman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHutch Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Longer pins, not toothpicks. Mine on my permanent mooring are 5' long scaffolding poles. For when out and about, we use 3' long pins and a sledgehammer, or normal pins but crossed if we're not staying long.Agree, we only use them for a fortnight at a time, but have four 3ft 1inch dia pins. Try what Sassan says above - but add a 'spring' at either end. That should stop you moving in any direction. Agree again. We have a long centreline and take this back from the centre to the rear post always, and then repeat with a second line going forward if the bank/ground condition require it. Daniel <p> Some things I find helpful, others will disagree: Don't do the crossed pins thing, it just tears up the ground and makes it worse. You can add a second pin a couple of feet from the first one. Tie to the first pin, then to the second. Position the pins quite a long way from the boat (along the bank). 6ft+ is good. This way, passing boats make your boat slide forward and back instead of in and out. It also means that the pins are being pulled along the bank rather than into the water, making it less likely that they'll rip the bank apart (which is bad for you and bad for the next person). This is how we use our four pins, with eyes just incase they are lost. Decent way from the edge, in pairs 18imch apart. Top of the first pin tided down to the base of the doubling pin to give mechanical advantage. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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