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Hi from Australia


boat fan

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I just love your pictures of Aus, what an amazing place,scenery is .....well, cant put into towards :)

 

I have to agree on the fibreglass and resin being messy to work with,and itchy, and i hate sanding with a passion now. so i can just imagine how you feel about it.

ot sure with epoxy and how it sets towards ployester resin, but when its around 20degC it spot on temp forsetting, just need to be quick, but above i think it is 30degC it is not the best.

How do you go on wiiht temp and laminating, igot held back over winter here as temps were just to low for laminating and gluing.

 

Keep it up, wont be long now before you can wet .the chines;)

 

 

 

You have sold "Aussie land" to me ....looks fabulous, keep posting..I'm becoming an armchair traveller whilst I plan....

My daughter spent 6 months travelling over there before she settled down to responsibilities

 

How about when my boat is done you fancy a cruise over for a visit, obviously i will get a bigger engine for it ;)

I think the firdt place i am going to is Aus when i win the lottery.

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Would love to visit UK , lots of things , of great interest to see.....

 

This boat building thing is keeping me too poor though .....sad.png

 

I`m a little surprised at the interest in the river pics though , but then again , I suppose it is quite a bit different from your waterways and canals.

 

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This Railway bridge is 20 km away from the boat.

The other bridge behind it is the road bridge.

 

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Typical Murray River backwaters. Off the main river , its home to huge carp.

 

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Concrete boat launching ramp.

Edited by boat fan
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If anyone is interested in wooden boats and construction , there is some good information about the canvas / PVA glue method

of waterproofing exterior plywood that can be found here :

 

The site is all about building travel trailers and caravans :

 

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Canvas covering a travel trailer .

 

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http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=60915

 

 

 

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I " found " some time today to work on the river boat.

Not a lot to show , but its all progress I guess.

To install the wood burner stove , I need to insulate the 100 mm ( four inch ) flue from the surrounding combustible ceiling panels and roof framing.

As I am waiting for the stainless flue order to arrive , in the mean time , this is a start at making the drop box that will penetrate the ceiling and hopefully prevent the house from burning down.

This is the first skin liner that will surround the flue as it passes through the ceiling.

It is recycled sheet metal from an old washing machine casing.Its nice thick sheet metal that can take some hammering .
The bends and folds were just shaped over some scrap 50 mm steel angle , and the two haves riveted together with pop rivets and sealer.

 

alIqRaX.jpg

 

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There is another second skin that is spaced about 25mm away from the inner liner .

The four inch flue will be place inside these.

 

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I fashioned a cone shaped piece that fits over the outer shield ( left ).

 

Holes will be cut or drilled along the very top edge to allow the hot air to vent out.

 

6pAylIx.jpg

 

The piece on the right is where the flue will exit in the centre.

 

The narrow skirt that can be seen around the outside is a shield to prevent rain water from entering the vent holes.

I will cut and seal the circular hole for a watertight fit when I have the flue.

 

CRoGrfp.jpg

 

Next is making the ceiling plate and witches or chinaman`s hat ( cowl ).

 

Thanks for looking.

Edited by boat fan
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I was very interested in the posts about pva/canvas coverings. I've not come across that mix before.

On some of the very old wooden working boats you sometimes found canvas/thick paint used as a deck or hatch covering with some success, so I imagine using PVA would be a big improvement on that. I must tell my mate about it (a wooden boat enthusiast who owns two ..... a glutton for punishment if there ever was laugh.png

For hulls the Westsystem of woven glass/epoxy seems to work very well, but it's costly

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Hi John ,

 

Yes , more wooden boat enthusiasts are doing the more traditional crafts decks with Titebond instead of the original method of setting the canvas in red or white lead.

 

Red and white lead is now banned in most places ( it is here ) , so they looked for an alternative.

 

Here is another link that applies to boats :

 

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjpr5v8p4HNAhXTQpQKHfNqBlUQFggkMAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstansboat.wordpress.com%2Ftag%2Ftitebond-glue%2F&usg=AFQjCNFIYWwOAdFcFKELT6O1DNBbpR-7Lg

 

mg_1302.jpg?w=938

 

The boat guys use Titebond III , like I did for my walls.

 

For hulls I would not use anything but glass / epoxy .

 

Another deck restoration using the same method is featured here :

 

nordic-folk-boat19.jpg

 

nordic-folk-boat21.jpg

 

 

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjpr5v8p4HNAhXTQpQKHfNqBlUQFghFMAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tonygrove.com%2Farticles%2Fnordic-folk-boat.php&usg=AFQjCNFNWMqKIeOhgrbS6B4NwJnt36VjOA

Edited by boat fan
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.setting the canvas in red or white lead.

 

Red and white lead is now banned in most places ( it is here ) , so they looked for an alternative....

 

Uh oh. The roof of my boat was covered in canvas/paint, and had to rip the lot off. Didn't consider that the paint might be lead paint. Too late to worry now, I guess.

 

More links here (although not using TiteBond III):

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/12/chest/april/index.html

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/09/howto/bluej3/index.htm

http://www.instructables.com/id/Poor-Mans-Fiberglass-make-nearly-anything-weatherp/

 

Thank you - it dooes look good with the slight curve - great thread and i also love to see the pictures - a bit of an escape while i have a coffee.

 

Becoming breakfast viewing for more besides, I think!

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I hope you didn`t swallow too much sanding dust tearing that canvas deck off Sir Percy .....

 

I was a bit miffed when I found out that I could not get my hands on some white lead , ( although a friend did offer to send me some ) , but to be honest , I`m kind of glad that the stuff is phased out now. We are making a mess of the world in so many ways , its not a bad thing to see a little less poison about.

 

Good links btw ...thanks.

 

Duckworks is a great place for the DIY crowd , I often check it out myself ......

Edited by boat fan
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OMG - can't believe I've only opened this thread this evening. What a great thing you are creating!

 

A true craftsmancloud9.gif

 

I know nothing about plumbing, fiberglass stuff or motors & their mounts - but after spending numerous years as the partner of a traditional wooden boat builder back in Canada, I can say you have some Very fine wood working skills.

 

You should be very proud of your work and what you have achieved so far.clapping.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made the bottom heat shield for the wood burner today.

Work on this thing ( the heater ) seems to go on and on .......

I made the heat shield below the ash box from left over C- Channel sections bolted together.

 

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The ash box bottom piece is cast iron , I inserted 50mm ( two inch ) steel angle spacers to cool the bottom.

 

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There is another heat shield that will be riveted under the primary heat shield.

 

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No further shielding is required below , and the heater is ready to be mounted .

Paint is next.

Thanks for watching.
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« Last Edit: Today at 12:14:56 PM by victor vector »
  • Greenie 1
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Hi everyone .

 

The good news is that my flue was delivered on Friday.

So I heat set the paint today.

 

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This little stove draws almost as good as rocket stove !

 

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The lower heat shield barely got warm.

 

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Sliding damper .

 

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I`ll post some more progress when I find some time to work on this barge.

 

RfZOYNb.jpg

Edited by boat fan
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I prefer a girl with nice hips Phil ....but its kind of cute I guess.

 

I fitted a tri- stay to my modified cooking pot cowling today.

 

Its a tight push-on fit to make cleaning a little easier.

 

rEaNrHu.jpg

 

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Stainless steel ceiling plate , its made from a discarded BBQ drip pan.

The hole was cut with a tile saw and the internal edge was capped with a slotted piece of annealed copper pipe to reduce buckling.

 

rUUtnwT.jpg

Edited by boat fan
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Hello everyone.

 

I installed the flue liner / drop box today during a break in the rainy weather.

 

Look there is a big hole in the roof ............

 

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Chimney seems to fit.

 

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I fitted metal screen over the vent slots.

 

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Inside the liner.

 

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I now need to frame around the liner to install the ceiling panels.

Edited by boat fan
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Hi Patty , and a belated good morning to you.

 

Sir Percy , the thought is to prevent mosquitos and those hairy Huntsman spiders from making their way down the heat shield / liner and into the cabin.

 

5QfvKJu.jpg

 

I had trouble photographing the vent slots I cut into the housing because of the black painted surfaces and black mesh,

but they are long slots as marked in the photo.

 

CRoGrfp.jpg

 

Once the rain cap is screwed down the mesh is not seen at all.

The flue will come out at the centre.

 

It should be relatively easy to give the screen a quick scrub with an old toothbrush at the end of each season.

 

The flue itself is quite well sealed at the stove , so I don`t anticipate any problems there.

Edited by boat fan
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Hi BF,

 

yeah, of course - the insects you get over there are a bit more troublesome than the ones we have in Britain (although I did once find a scorpion on the ceiling). The Hunstman's the really nasty one isn't it?

The cap'll be removable for cleaning the flue, I guess. Do you have a square-headed brush? wink.png

 

Cheers,

Gavin

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