Aqua line leak

[Timx]

Hi, I have a leak in the bilge ,it appears to be where the pipe coming from the weed hatch joins over the prop shaft in the bilge. It only leaks when in gear,I presume that means replacing that tube ,there is a red lever next to it and if that is wiggled water emits, any suggestions, there is a Isuzu marine specialist who I can contact tomorrow,just wondered if anyone has any ideas ?

[valrene9600]

Sounds like you have a water cooled stern tube. If the vetus type you need to put silicon grease in the alum nut hole.

[Flyboy]

Can you post a picture?

[Brian M]

Sounds like a Vetus water lubricated stern tube.The red lever should be in line with the rubber tubing, if it is leaking from this tubing check that the pipe clips are tight or that the tube is not perished

[dor]

It sounds like a standard Vetus stern gland. The pipe is mostly to let air escape from the bearing, but it does allow a bit of movement of water. The pipe shouldn't leak. It sounds easy to fix if the leak is between the pipe and the union on the top of the stern tube. The red lever should be in line with the pipe.

 

The stern tube should be lubricated with silicone grease about every 100 hours. Squirt it into the hole after removing the silver allen bolt. I also like to smear a bit of the grease around the outside of the bearing as well. Vetus or Volvo silicone grease comes in a little tube designed to fit the hole (The Volvo grease is cheaper and apart from being blue is basically the same). If this is ignored, the seals can wear and then water will drip from the front of tube, where the prop shaft goes into the brass bit.

 

 

ETA: Just beaten by Brian M!

Edited February 28, 2016 by dor

[valrene9600]

Is this what you have. Be exact and tell us where it leaks and if you are doing anything to make it leak ie. you mentioned the red tap.

Is it leaking from the tube attached to red tap. Or where the shaft enters unit.

Edited February 28, 2016 by valrene9600

[Timx]

Thanks for those replies , BOat Valerie yes that is the same set up, when I look , when boat is in gear, it is running in a fast drip from , it appears to me from the bottom of that lever or the pipe, it's hard to differentiate. I know about having to put the silicone grease in, although not sure where, so I asked where exactly to previous owner and he said that shouldn't be necessary for another 500 hrs as he has serviced it b4 sale and suggested if there is water running game from there it is the pipe probably needing replacement which is beyond my skills,and where I am now, so will ring an engineer tomorrow, because I can't really answer you helpful questions as I can see where but it could be the pipe or lack of silicon, although I am assured that's not the case, on the Ashby canal hanging around until atherstone lock is sorted, I see there is boat yards around, I have only just bought it, and insurance gives me two rcr call outs but am I right in not using one for this if an easy fix(to some)

As on ashby net wifi hard to access so can only do it in pubs,if you know what I mean

Looking again at pic, as the pipe comes in the red handle is in up vertical position right in front, and there is a little what appears a Allan screw centre as in yours but also to each side, can't post on here as not on lap top

[Timx]

Sounds like a Vetus water lubricated stern tube.The red lever should be in line with the rubber tubing, if it is leaking from this tubing check that the pipe clips are tight or that the tube is not perished

Yeah that's it , it is in line, but how do you know the pipe grips are not tight enough, I am guessing the pipe is perished somewhere, but how do I know.

[dor]

You need to look at the pipe, particularly how it is attached to the small tube on the top of the stern tube. It is probably held in place by jubilee clips. It is possible that the flexible pipe has perished, but more likely that the clip is loose. You can see in Valreene's picture quite clearly the Allen bolt that has to be taken out to put grease in. I wouldn't leave it for 500 hours! I have come across several of these Vetus stern tubes that do drip, and the owners have always said they thought it was a maintenance-free fitting so never added the correct grease.

[Timx]

Thanks for answers, I had a play this morning, jubilee clip seemed tight, so I called out local engineer and he told me the'' lip seal'' had gone and needs replacing so, gonna get it slipped and sorted this week.

[Tony Brooks]

Thanks for answers, I had a play this morning, jubilee clip seemed tight, so I called out local engineer and he told me the'' lip seal'' had gone and needs replacing so, gonna get it slipped and sorted this week.

 

I think we have members here who have changed those seals in the water.

[bizzard]

I'd check the engine alignment first and lubricate the lip seal unit if its not been done before.

[valrene9600]

It can be done in water. Before you pay out loadz of money, the vetus deals unit is £90 or more. Put the grease in the Alan key hole put plenty in spin shaft as you do it to spread grease around. It could well be all it needs.

[WotEver]

It can be done in water. Before you pay out loadz of money, the vetus deals unit is £90 or more. Put the grease in the Alan key hole put plenty in spin shaft as you do it to spread grease around. It could well be all it needs.

That's what I was thinking. Sod paying for a slip, new seal and engineer's time when all it possibly requires is a couple of quids worth of grease.

 

Tony

[valrene9600]

This is the very expensive unit on the vetus water cooled stern tube. As you see it is a unit with two rubber seals available from any decent bearing/ seals dealer for about £6.

 

I have changed three of these, seals that is, all done in water.

Edited February 29, 2016 by valrene9600

[bizzard]

I wouldn't go smearing the silicon grease on the outside of the seal as dirt and grit could adhere to it and be taken in under the seals lip and shorten its life, there will always be a thin film of grease there anyway because of the shaft shifting back and forth, without adding more.

[valrene9600]

I wouldn't go smearing the silicon grease on the outside of the seal as dirt and grit could adhere to it and be taken in under the seals lip and shorten its life, there will always be a thin film of grease there anyway because of the shaft shifting back and forth, without adding more.

Agreed it must go in the Alan key hole.

[bizzard]

I wouldn't go smearing the silicon grease on the outside of the seal as dirt and grit could adhere to it and be taken in under the seals lip and shorten its life, there will always be a thin film of grease there anyway because of the shaft shifting back and forth, without adding more.

Renewing the seal would be a good opportunity to check engine alignment at the same time as the shaft has to be disconnected from the coupling. All can be done in the water.

[valrene9600]

Go to plumbers gdt SILICONE grease. About £7 a large tube it could save you a fortune.

[Timx]

Hmm thanks for that, I was told when buying it that previous owner had serviced engine and greased/silicone the unit, so that's why I never did it or thought that was the problem. He did say it could be done in the water but cant remember why now he said he needed to slip it something to do with checking the part. The tiller does have a slight judder in the tiller, which previous owner told me was normal behaviour, so could that be a sign of mis alignment. ?.

[Timx]

Also I first rang RCR as I have two call outs with them through the insurance, they told me it needed a specialist to do it, it was not covered in there call outs but there sister company could deal with it, as an engineer only knows about engines and not about this problem, he said he would ring me back, after an hour or so he still hadn't rang me back, so I rang them, but told he was on phone and would ring me back asap, he didn't ring back at all. So that's why I rang a local boatyard. He reckons it only needs to be out of water two hours and boat yard should do me a deal, so I will see what they quote for slippage..

[valrene9600]

Hope it all doesn't cost you too much. Just a tip, keep the part they take off it's yours. In a few years when you gain experience and are braver you can get the seals and have a unit ready to swap.

Good luck.

[WotEver]

I'm not surprised RCR weren't interested, a dripping stern gland is hardly a breakdown.

 

Tony

[mick55]

You can do this job in the water in about an hour, seals are standard kit and will cost about 15 pounds to do the job,its not rocket science and can be done by any competent person who knows what they are about,done loads of them in the past with no problems.

[DHutch]

How much does the unit leak without the seals.

 

Is it a 'have a good pump in place and do it quickly' job, or is there scope to remove the seal unit, take it to a local seals place, replace the seals, and then return the seal unit back again in the afternoon?

 

 

Daniel