DIY Pram Cover

[clbrof]

I want to cover the back of my boat. However I am looking at ~£3000 for a pram cover to be made for me.

 

Im sure I can make something for less, by buying the bits and having certain parts fabricated for me e.g. have stainless tubes bent a a local firm for frame work, and making the rest myself (templates etc)

 

So far I have found fittings for the frame:

 

http://www.baselinemarine.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=53&cat=Stainless+Steel+and+Cast+Range

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Bow-Bimini-Top-Boat-Stainless-Steel-Fittings-Marine-Hardware-Set-7-8s-12-pcs-/131248856837

 

 

Fittings for the canopy itself:

 

http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/midland%20chandlers/cabin%20and%20deck/deck%20hull%20fittings/canopy%20fittings.aspx

 

 

Fabric, thread and windows:

 

http://www.acorncanvas.com/PBSCCatalog.asp?CatID=1591500

 

 

I am currently just seeing if its economically better for me to make it myself (I can do the mechanical parts, partner can sew).

 

Also wanting any hints and tips, e.g how to seal sewing (correct threads/sealers etc), choice of fabrics (longevity, colour fade, mould/algae growth)!

 

Thanks!

 

 

[Rob-M]

Buy a good set of waterproofs and forget the pram cover. You will have plenty of change from £3k as well.

[GoodGurl]

i made my pram cover myself, i got the hoops second hand from a boater, bought the material from Acorn canvas and the turn buttons, press studs etc from sawley chandlers, cost around £350 all in.

[clbrof]

I get that they are a PIA when cruising, however the boat spends most of its life sat in a marina, and an extra dry area 3m wide by 2m to take wet clothes off makes more sense for us.

 

I was thinking £300-400 for materials would do the trick thanks for the tips.

[Our Edan]

Hi all,

       Were looking at making our own Pram cover,but up to now

       having problem's as to where we can buy the frame...other 

      than the actual company's that make them,anybody know

      where we could purchase them from ?cheers

   

         

        

[Detling]

You can get a lot of the fittings on flea bay and with a decent pipe bender and tube you could have a go, look for bimini mountings. available in plastic, aluminium alloy, and stainless steel.  You will need access to a decent sewing machine, corners finish up as 6 to 8 layers of your canvas to sew through.

[Guest]

Whilst I don't particularly have a problem with pram covers and in fact like them for the ability to keep one dry they can rarely be described as something  that improves the overall appearance of a boat.

 

Making ones own is only likely to compound the issue. Making one is a skilled and time consuming  job hence the cost a professional company will charge to supply one. They will also have all the correct kit, including an industrial strength sewing machine.

 

(Of course this may not be an issue of concern)

Edited July 13, 2020 by The Happy Nomad

[Alan de Enfield]

7 minutes ago, The Happy Nomad said:

.......... they can rarely be described as something  that improves the overall appearance of a boat..

 

(Of course this may not be an issue of concern)

 

Maybe the boat is on the K&A.

[Tony Brooks]

Make sure your sewing machine can handle the materiel, many domestic ones can't and hand sewing is less likely to get a decent looking result unless she is really skilled..

Edited July 13, 2020 by Tony Brooks

[TandC]

We made our pram hood and cratch cover around 11 years ago and while it is looking a bit tatty now.  It is up at least 8 months of the year and I've only bothered to clean the fabric a couple of times, despite that we live under two big Ash trees and all their residents (with assorted bowel problems!).  Only now am I considering replacing the cratch as the plywood triangle is shot and is an opportunity to increase the height a little.  We also made a "Sports canopy" a couple of years back - a cover for the back deck that doesnt use poles that we can take away when we're cruising - not so good for storage etc, but keeps the rain off the deck and out the engine bay (old cruiser stern, rubbish drainage arrangement).    

 

I don't think it cost more than £300 - 400 for both

 

Acorn Canvas were really helpful - not sure if he is still trading though?  Bought the canvas and folding edge-binding from him and I think also the plastic window material.  You can also get the eyelets, turnbuckles, etc 

 

Stainless steel tube can be bought from any decent steel stockholder / fabricator.   I bought appropriate stainless fittings online, yacht places etc have them - they slot onto the steel tubes and can be affixed with a screw or I just used a rivet.  There are various arrangements using quick-release pins to slot the tube socket ends into, screwed to the boat permanently.  

 

 

I measured and drew out the tube shapes onto a plywood guide and used an industrial conduit pipe bender to get them to shape - stainless is HARD so have your Weetabix.   I made three slightly different sized "n" shapes, each leg has a a socket fitting, they go into a fitting secured permanently on the roof handrail and the seat structure around the sterndeck.  Small hoop on roof, largest hoop in the middle, slightly smaller hoop at the back to create the tent-like ridge.   

 

I bought black webbing tape with hooks and fittings off eBay - two lengths run from the seat up and over the tops of the hoops - they have quick-snap poppers on, with the corresponding riveted onto the top of the tubes.  It allows me to "raise" and "lower" the two large hoops and the webbing extends forward down the line of the boat and hooks into an eyelet further down the handrail.

 

Sewing machine - we went through i guess 6 layers of canvas.  I used a good quality brand (Husquavarna - i mean, they make chainsaws!) but it is just a domestic machine - no problems at all.  Don't worry about being told you need an industrial machine - I didn't find it an issue. Man-handling all the material around and through the machine body can be a pain, but even on a domestic that is doable. 

 

Be wary of the canvas capacity to stretch - particularly if you use long, continuous runs - ours is constructed of probably 4m single length - but that stretched over the first few months and created sagging.  That's where the professionals really come into their own:  A high quality tight fit - no sags, no puddles, no leaks. .   I had to remedy this by using an additional support rib made of ply that just slots in on top of the tubes and takes out that slack in the fabric. 

 

It has served the test of time - over 10 years, still serviceable and no leaks.  Totally changed the cruiser-stern from a water-logged liability into a place to store things and hang coats, shoes etc.   It can look a little "saggy" in places, but I take that over the cost.   We used the window material and while a rear screen on the back deck cover does mean that it is always light in there, i'm not sure i'd bother with the cratch again.  The two large windows i sewed in just look dirty all the time and it's a faff to make. 

 

A professional will get you a high quality finish, no sags, it won't leak - but there is a reason they cost as much as they do, not only the skills and experience, but it is a seriously time-consuming job! 

 

 

 

 

[Alan de Enfield]

Some methods of constructing the framework, but this one is almost a 'fixed' construction rather than the 'take down in seconds when approaching a bridge' design.