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cleaning the bilges - what's best ?


fluff001

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Moved to 'Boat Maintenance' section.

 

I would go along with the above, get out all the water/oil/etc you can using appropriate methods, bucket and sponge for water, rags/nappies for oil unless there is enough to get into a bottle to go the waste oil container and the local tip. If there is an amount of oil on what is otherwise water, you can remove this by laying newspaper on it and in 'printing' the oil onto the paper till its enough enough to bucket and sponge onto the towpath.

 

That might be enough.

 

However if you want get it good enough to paint, a water based degreaser such as gunk/jizer or any other is a good start, then mechanically prepair and required, and clean down again with brake cleaner or panel wipe. If there is much rust, the Vactan (or Fertan) effect areas. And paint in your prefered paint. I would suggest an oil based paint as these are slightly more tolerant of contaminated surfaces.

 

 

Daniel

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Thanks guy's it's good to know there's help out there when needed ! This is my first time on here and proved a great find. Keep up the good work.

So this looks like a mucky and long job but it will be worth the effort when done.

 

I don't think there's any rust under the crud but if there is I know what to do now !

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One of the best bilge cleaners I have used is Bilgex which is made by Cuprinol.....seems to be more readily available from bumpy water chandlers for some reason....degreases really well and is pleasant in smell...good for getting rid of diesel odour. Just pour a couple of capfuls into the bilge and swill round with some water......then sponge out...finish with another couple of capfuls in a bucket of warm water and wipe round. Take care where you get rid of the ensuing dirty water.....find a foul water drain rather than into the cut.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

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Pretty much as already said,but its critical to ensure any rust is neutalized and the bilge is clean and DRY or it will not last long before rust shows again.

My suggestion for paint would be Danboline bilge and locker paint from international (no attachment to companyand i am sure there are similar products available)which i have used and find it gives a first class barrier to oil and water and is extemely hard wearing,it comes in a variety of colours.

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The other option is to stick an old paint brush in the sump tray under the engine, rub that into the non-oily rusty bits, and call it a job!

 

Other similar options, which can go hand in hand with some but not militant cleaning are waxoyl and owatrol oil. Doesn't given you the warm fuzzy well painted feel inside, but takes a lot less time and does as good a job and stopping the rust.

 

 

 

Daniel

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The oil tray under the engine itself isn't worth painting in my opinion. Too difficult to prep properly unless you happen to be removing the engine. I would just get any crud out and put an oil absorbing matt down there.

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-143685-oil-drip-absorbent-mat-laser-6054-100-x-80cm-100-polypropylene-single.aspx?gclid=CPOUnOr6rMkCFYIcGwod--UNaw

Edited by blackrose
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The other option is to stick an old paint brush in the sump tray under the engine, rub that into the non-oily rusty bits, and call it a job!

 

Other similar options, which can go hand in hand with some but not militant cleaning are waxoyl and owatrol oil. Doesn't given you the warm fuzzy well painted feel inside, but takes a lot less time and does as good a job and stopping the rust.

 

 

 

Daniel

Yuck.

 

We apply the opposite theory completely and keep the engine bay spotless. That way if you do get a leak somewhere it is easy to trace.

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Yuck.

 

We apply the opposite theory completely and keep the engine bay spotless. That way if you do get a leak somewhere it is easy to trace.

I would always rather after a clean engine bay than a filthy one, but equally I would rather have one that fairly clean with a thin film of oil over it, than one thats going rusty and loosing hull!

 

Obviously your hull being grp make rust a far smaller issue. They should do grp lined narrowboats...

 

 

Daniel

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The other option is to stick an old paint brush in the sump tray under the engine, rub that into the non-oily rusty bits, and call it a job!

 

Other similar options, which can go hand in hand with some but not militant cleaning are waxoyl and owatrol oil. Doesn't given you the warm fuzzy well painted feel inside, but takes a lot less time and does as good a job and stopping the rust.

 

 

 

Daniel

I agree with this. No rust where there is oil. You can still keep it nice and uniform looking. As for detecting leaks (mentioned by another poaster) etc, just make the enjun itself clean. It's not like there is a lot of space available under the enjun for inspection of leaks anyway.

 

I think I will paint my dry but slightly rusty quarter bilges with some leftover waxoyl underseal.

Edited by Jamm
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I agree with this. No rust where there is oil. You can still keep it nice and uniform looking. As for detecting leaks (mentioned by another poaster) etc, just make the enjun itself clean. It's not like there is a lot of space available under the enjun for inspection of leaks anyway.

 

I think I will paint my dry but slightly rusty quarter bilges with some leftover waxoyl underseal.

 

Dad used to thin his waxoil with about 1/3 white spirit, or similar, and sprayed it on with a sort of garden sprayer. He claimed it got in the hard-to-reach areas better.

 

I don't suppose that's any help to anyone!

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Dad used to thin his waxoil with about 1/3 white spirit, or similar, and sprayed it on with a sort of garden sprayer. He claimed it got in the hard-to-reach areas better.

 

I don't suppose that's any help to anyone!

I think it is :)

 

Another good idea is to heat the tin of waxoyl up in a basin of hot water to make it more runny prior to application. Very useful in cold weather :)

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Waxoyl is fantastic stuff. Just look at the tens of thousands of 1960s and 70s cars, all still rust free and on the roads, that were 'protected' with it if you want proof....

 

Instead, why not use something that doesn't need heating up, won't dry out and crack once the solvent has evaporated off (like it did in my old Ford Sierra) allowing water to get beneath it, and that has genuine 'creeping' and self-healing properties:

 

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50?___store=default

 

It beats me why Waxoyl is still being suggested in the 21st century when modern technology has far overtaken it. If you don't fancy Bilt Hamber's stuff (even though they're a British firm), there are others (Dinitrol for example) that are also highly regarded.

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