Basic stove use

[Pennie]

Ok we're clearly missing something when it comes to making the perfect fire and getting our stove running at its optimum

We use kindling (the expensive "kiln dried" stuff in a bag at the minute as my OH said "nah we don't need to collect wood now, do it closer to the winter" when I suggested collecting kindling on our travels over the summer), newspaper and a small chunk of firelighter on a bed of Excel coal to get it started.

 

When happily roaring and there is enough space we throw on the well seasoned logs we've were given when my uncle cut down a huge wind damaged oak (we wont run out of logs for at least 5 years lol). Then we keep topping it up with the occasional handful of coal and if it looks like its teetering out a log.

 

It just about lasts over night when the vent is closed all the way and it was stacked up with coal. We through a heat log (those compressed sawdust bricks) on to stir it back to life.

 

So, I think I'm following all the advice I've been given. But we're so cold. Its 13oC right next to the stove (in the kitchen) and much colder in the saloon and just an ice box in the bedroom. The hottest we've managed to get it so far this winter right next to the stove is 19oC. Where are the dizzying heights in temperature where we would need to throw open the doors? We've even closed the windows today (despite the risk of condensation) as that helped raise the temp up 2oC since this morning.

Am I doing something wrong? What am I clearly missing. Currently I can here the fire roaring away but where is my heat?

[bizzard]

Ok we're clearly missing something when it comes to making the perfect fire and getting our stove running at its optimum

 

We use kindling (the expensive "kiln dried" stuff in a bag at the minute as my OH said "nah we don't need to collect wood now, do it closer to the winter" when I suggested collecting kindling on our travels over the summer), newspaper and a small chunk of firelighter on a bed of Excel coal to get it started.

 

When happily roaring and there is enough space we throw on the well seasoned logs we've were given when my uncle cut down a huge wind damaged oak (we wont run out of logs for at least 5 years lol). Then we keep topping it up with the occasional handful of coal and if it looks like its teetering out a log.

 

It just about lasts over night when the vent is closed all the way and it was stacked up with coal. We through a heat log (those compressed sawdust bricks) on to stir it back to life.

 

So, I think I'm following all the advice I've been given. But we're so cold. Its 13oC right next to the stove (in the kitchen) and much colder in the saloon and just an ice box in the bedroom. The hottest we've managed to get it so far this winter right next to the stove is 19oC. Where are the dizzying heights in temperature where we would need to throw open the doors? We've even closed the windows today (despite the risk of condensation) as that helped raise the temp up 2oC since this morning.

 

Am I doing something wrong? What am I clearly missing. Currently I can here the fire roaring away but where is my heat?

130c is everso hot. If you can hear it roaring away there's too much bottom air and a lot of the heat is going up the chimney and away.

[Pennie]

So probably the fact the door isn't sealed would be a huge cause of this problem? Its an odd stove, no fire rope, or a place put any and the door hasn't latched in all the time I've had it and the previous owner (though apparently it passed the BSS)

So it would seem it burns too well and all the heat goes out into the chimney and the world then? Sorry for adding to global warming, my bad

[bottle]

Make and model of stove?

 

It is a balance as Bizzard alludes to, enough air to maintain combustion but not to much heat going up the chimney.

[FidoDido]

maybe the stove is too small for the boat?

 

A Morso squirrel 1410 gets my 70 ft boat warmed through - have had as hot as 32 °C in main cabin (not recommended!)

 

Phurnacite puts out more heat than excel, but excel should give out a lot. There fire-bricks in the stove? Does it have a back boiler?

 

I close windows in Winter - should have enough airflow through roof and lower vents to stop most condensation.

bit slow on the reply.

 

Sounds potentially dangerous if door doesn't seal IMHO... hope you have a CO alarm!

[bottle]

So probably the fact the door isn't sealed would be a huge cause of this problem? Its an odd stove, no fire rope, or a place put any and the door hasn't latched in all the time I've had it and the previous owner (though apparently it passed the BSS)

 

So it would seem it burns too well and all the heat goes out into the chimney and the world then? Sorry for adding to global warming, my bad

 

This is very worrying, please be very careful, Carbon Monoxide is a silent killer.

 

In fact what I should say is do not use it until all faults are sorted.

[Alan de Enfield]

Something is wrong with either the stove (door seal, or ventilation) or maybe you are not clearing the ashes and 'choking it', or 'summat' else.

 

The hottest we ever managed to get our boat was 54^oC and we gave up the experiment at that temperature as we couldn't breathe.

 

Get someone to check it out - its not 'right and may not be safe.

[Athy]

 

This is very worrying, please be very careful, Carbon Monoxide is a silent killer.

 

In fact what I should say is do not use it until all faults are sorted.

Is there any reason why a stove whose door is not tightly shut should pose any more of a health risk than an open fire, which millions of Britons have in their homes? You are right to sound a note of prudence, but we would not want Pennie and Mr. Pen to have groundless worries.

[Pennie]

Well Co monitor has been checked by the fire brigade to be working and the other one (the dog) also says it's safe regarding the silent killer. As well as it not sealing is has a piece if glass missing from the door. Currently put a bit of foil over it to slow the rate if burning as much as I can as no idea how the glass is replaced as it doesn't have a frame holding it in place, it looks like some sort if putty sticking it to the door

 

It's a torglow stove of some kind but model wise I can't tell you as there is very little information in them online. Only vintage posters from the 50S

Regarding ash we empty it 2-4 times a day, let it cool then it's added to our composting loo as it's a fantastic alternative to sawdust

[Alan de Enfield]

BSS Fail :

 

"...........surfaces, seams and openings which can be seen.
Solid fuel appliances must show no obvious signs of: • unintended gaps or cracks in the outside surface or seams of the stove; or, • unintended gaps greater than 2mm in the loading door seal or door glass"

[bottle]

Is there any reason why a stove whose door is not tightly shut should pose any more of a health risk than an open fire, which millions of Britons have in their homes? You are right to sound a note of prudence, but we would not want Pennie and Mr. Pen to have groundless worries.

 

Simple answer yes

 

All to do with air flow, air supply and chimney draw.

 

Especially when the stove is at the end of the burn cycle ie. it needs refuelling.

[bizzard]

Well Co monitor has been checked by the fire brigade to be working and the other one (the dog) also says it's safe regarding the silent killer. As well as it not sealing is has a piece if glass missing from the door. Currently put a bit of foil over it to slow the rate if burning as much as I can as no idea how the glass is replaced as it doesn't have a frame holding it in place, it looks like some sort if putty sticking it to the door

 

It's a torglow stove of some kind but model wise I can't tell you as there is very little information in them online. Only vintage posters from the 50S

Regarding ash we empty it 2-4 times a day, let it cool then it's added to our composting loo as it's a fantastic alternative to sawdust

If this is a Torgem. Is it a tallish stove with a bottom air and ashpan door that opens in and out by pulling and pushing it at its bottom edge? Does the main door open downwards with a latch knob at the top? Is the window in the door Mica or a row of glass slats?

[Alan de Enfield]

Regarding ash we empty it 2-4 times a day, let it cool then it's added to our composting loo as it's a fantastic alternative to sawdust

 

Where do you let your ash cool ?

 

A major source of Co is from cooling ash and partly bunt coal. Not a good idea to keep it in the boat or cratch.

[bizzard]

If this is a Torgem. Is it a tallish stove with a bottom air and ashpan door that opens in and out by pulling and pushing it at its bottom edge? Does the main door open downwards with a latch knob at the top? Is the window in the door Mica or a row of glass slats?

Just googled them. Looks like there are many different types of Torglow stoves, although one looks similar to my description.

[Pennie]

The main door opens like a normal door and the ash pan is accessed by lifting up then pulling forward. It has rows of glass in the door.

 

I'm aware currently the missing pane would fail bss but this is a new problem probably caused by it burning way too hot because if the lack of door seal

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=torglow+stove&client=ms-android-h3g-gb&hl=en-GB&source=android-browser-type&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjKi_6U3qHJAhWI7BQKHd_-BXkQ_AUICCgC#imgrc=KZXNjrCOTyMatM%3A

[bizzard]

Generally, if your emptying the ashpan more than twice in 24 hours its burning too fast.

[Pennie]

First link above is the exact model

 

Below is very similar but mine has just one door and the vent in a sliding catch under the handle to get into the ash pan

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=torglow+stove&client=ms-android-h3g-gb&hl=en-GB&source=android-browser-type&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjKi_6U3qHJAhWI7BQKHd_-BXkQ_AUICCgC#imgrc=JX8WdIaTKIicEM%3A

Ash is left to cool outside. We don't have a cratch. If it gets wet it's binned but we usually have more than enough for the loo if some gets spoilt by the weather

[bizzard]

The main door opens like a normal door and the ash pan is accessed by lifting up then pulling forward. It has rows of glass in the door.

 

I'm aware currently the missing pane would fail bss but this is a new problem probably caused by it burning way too hot because if the lack of door seal

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=torglow+stove&client=ms-android-h3g-gb&hl=en-GB&source=android-browser-type&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjKi_6U3qHJAhWI7BQKHd_-BXkQ_AUICCgC#imgrc=KZXNjrCOTyMatM%3A

Not all stoves use a door seal. The missing glass slat won't be helping. The burning away too fast is probably a loose badly fitting or warped bottom door.

[Pennie]

It is very loose, the catch doesn't catch any more as it doesn't come together any more. Most likely these are my factors of no internal heat rather than my fire building and maintaining methods

[ditchcrawler]

 

This is very worrying, please be very careful, Carbon Monoxide is a silent killer.

 

In fact what I should say is do not use it until all faults are sorted.

Is it a fault or the way its designed? The stove in my boatman has no seal.

[Pennie]

Probably designed that way.

[bottle]

It mat not need a seal

 

Is it a fault or the way its designed? The stove in my boatman has no seal.

 

I was talking about the door not latching.

 

Yes it may not need a seal but then it would be metal to metal and if it is not latch then it cannot seal.

[Pennie]

Currently I can stick my finger (carefully without burning myself) between the door and stove body when it is as closed as it can be. The paper test would need a whole newspaper in there just to be held in place by the door yet alone trying to see if the door traps it in place lol

[bizzard]

Not all stoves use a door seal. The missing glass slat won't be helping. The burning away too fast is probably a loose badly fitting or warped bottom door.

I'd say too much air getting in below the grate. That bottom door possibly a little warped or its control not closing off enough. I'd also check all around the stove panel joints especially below the grate level, poke a thin knife blade into all the gaps to see if it poke right through. Whilst the fire is roaring away and the bottom air control screwed in fully you could go all round these stove body joins with a piece of very light weight tissue paper, below the grate there will be a slight vacuum and so will draw the tissue paper towards any gaps or breaches at these joins no matter how small.

[ditchcrawler]

It mat not need a seal

 

 

I was talking about the door not latching.

 

Yes it may not need a seal but then it would be metal to metal and if it is not latch then it cannot seal.

True

I'd say too much air getting in below the grate. That bottom door possibly a little warped or its control not closing off enough. I'd also check all around the stove panel joints especially below the grate level, poke a thin knife blade into all the gaps to see if it poke right through. Whilst the fire is roaring away and the bottom air control screwed in fully you could go all round these stove body joins with a piece of very light weight tissue paper, below the grate there will be a slight vacuum and so will draw the tissue paper towards any gaps or breaches at these joins no matter how small.

Strange it can be shut down to stay in all night unless its the chimney damper doing it which could be bad news

Edited November 21, 2015 by ditchcrawler