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liner puller


londonron

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I know nothing about Listers, but if the liners are anything like my Bukh, the manual convinced me I needed a puller, but in reality it was perfectly easy to gently knock them out from below using a block of wood and a large hammer. Not sure if the same would work for you?

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i had the liners changed on my JP3 last year and this job definately required pullers, i don`t have any pullers myself but the work was carried out by Ralph at RK marine who is based near London.

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I remember Martyn at MPS telling me they used a hydraulic puller. With recalcitrant ones he mentioned that you had to be careful not to break the crankcase web supporting the bottom of the liner (this may have more relevance to Gardners though). He would often pump up puller to something less than the limit then go and have a cup of tea. As often as not he would return to find the liner had popped out.

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A puller will definitely be needed. The one we use is a 60 tonne hydraulic puller and on some occasions this comes very close to topped out when trying to remove liners from JP's (Depending on levels of corrosion on the inside of the block)

 

You will also need to ensure whatever puller you use spreads the load evenly around the top of the block around the liner otherwise you may remove the liner with a part of the deck of the block still attached.....

Edited by martyn 1
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I know nothing about Listers, but if the liners are anything like my Bukh, the manual convinced me I needed a puller, but in reality it was perfectly easy to gently knock them out from below using a block of wood and a large hammer. Not sure if the same would work for you?

 

I think that your liners are wet liners that do just push into place with O rings or gaskets to seal the water that flows around the liners.

 

I suspect the OP has dry liners that are normally (but not always) an interference fit into a bore in the block.

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advice so far away from this site is to get a round metal plate 15mm thick cut to the size of the liner. Machine it so there is a lip so it has a few mm inside the liner so when it pops up its got some control. Metal threaded quality studding and draw it up tight and leave overnight.

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advice so far away from this site is to get a round metal plate 15mm thick cut to the size of the liner. Machine it so there is a lip so it has a few mm inside the liner so when it pops up its got some control. Metal threaded quality studding and draw it up tight and leave overnight.

When mine have been pulled they have used hydraulics.....if they have never been pulled then it won't be easy.....listen to Martyn....he's had more experience with JP's than most.

 

I've made pullers with studding to remove Land Rover Spring bushes......I wouldn't even try a JP liner with it.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

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I always do listen to Martyn. Trouble is that i cant get hold of a proper lifter. Have posted on facebook boat groups, called hire shops, looked on ebay and of course on here. im running out of options. Cant believe for a special item there isnt a hire place that rents them. Just cant find the right shop at the moment

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I always do listen to Martyn. Trouble is that i cant get hold of a proper lifter. Have posted on facebook boat groups, called hire shops, looked on ebay and of course on here. im running out of options. Cant believe for a special item there isnt a hire place that rents them. Just cant find the right shop at the moment

I couldn't find anyone that would hire or lend me a tool....you could make a machined plate to fit a hydraulic puller that you can hire from a tool hire place but by the time you have had the machining done it might be easier to pay some one to do he job for you.

 

I've used Tony Redsahw in the midlands but when I was in Hemel Hempstead I used Tim Wood. It was many years ago but it might be worth a call to see if he has the kit still

 

http://www.whhbarges.co.uk

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

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I think that your liners are wet liners that do just push into place with O rings or gaskets to seal the water that flows around the liners.

 

I suspect the OP has dry liners that are normally (but not always) an interference fit into a bore in the block.

 

JP's have wet liners as well, as shown below. There is a tell-tale hole in the block to indicate a leak located between the two sealing "O" rings on skirt of liner.

 

post-13525-0-28029100-1448099829_thumb.jpg

Edited by by'eck
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I think that your liners are wet liners that do just push into place with O rings or gaskets to seal the water that flows around the liners.

 

I suspect the OP has dry liners that are normally (but not always) an interference fit into a bore in the block.

 

I did think this, hence the first line of my post. You're right Tony, my Bukh is wet liners, and they were't exactly easy to get out. I can imagine an interference fit dry liner needing a huge amount of pressure, as most of the later posts seem to imply! Best of luck to the OP in finding a puller. I looked long and hard when I needed one and couldn't find anywhere that would hire one.

 

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As Martyn has said getting JP liners out can be a bit of an ordeal. We have managed to stretch the 1" stud bar in our hydraulic puller several times. Be particularly careful if the engine has ever been raw water cooled as salt water concretion can make things far worse. The deck of the block can be quite thin on JPs and it is terminal if you break it.Once, having got the liners safely out, I managed to poke a hole right through the block deck with a screwdriver while digging out the concretion, Yes , they can be THAT thin.

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would there be amy benifit to running a descalling solution around the engine ? I used to do water treatment as a job so it wouldnt be hard to rig up a circulation pump and chemically renmove the limescale thats holding everything in place if that is the main reason its all set in there solid

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would there be amy benifit to running a descalling solution around the engine ? I used to do water treatment as a job so it wouldnt be hard to rig up a circulation pump and chemically renmove the limescale thats holding everything in place if that is the main reason its all set in there solid

Once you've got the liner out it gives access to the inside of the block so you can chip the limescale out with a small chisel. I MAY have a puller you can borrow. I made one for my JP 25 years ago. I'll have a check in the lockup. Jack Hackney

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advice so far away from this site is to get a round metal plate 15mm thick cut to the size of the liner. Machine it so there is a lip so it has a few mm inside the liner so when it pops up its got some control. Metal threaded quality studding and draw it up tight and leave overnight.

Been there, tried that, and then went and got a hydraulic puller. Unless your engine has had a liner change recently (last decade, and had antifreeze in it since) the likelyhood is your wont shift them with a manual puller. It has always made me laugh that the instructions in the manual for removing the liners makes it sound so easy and that only a block of wood is needed.......

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Been there, tried that, and then went and got a hydraulic puller. Unless your engine has had a liner change recently (last decade, and had antifreeze in it since) the likelyhood is your wont shift them with a manual puller. It has always made me laugh that the instructions in the manual for removing the liners makes it sound so easy and that only a block of wood is needed.......

Sounds very familiar! When I did mine with a "length of studding" puller I had made, I used my longest breaker bar and a trolley jack handle, with a couple of neighbours to hold the crankcase down. I seem to remember a length of scaffolding pole may have been involved too. Not an easy job!

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Once you've got the liner out it gives access to the inside of the block so you can chip the limescale out with a small chisel. I MAY have a puller you can borrow. I made one for my JP 25 years ago. I'll have a check in the lockup. Jack Hackney

No luck, I'm afraid. I've seached the lock up but cant find it. Perhaps I've loaned it to someone and didn't get it back. Whereabouts are you? I may be able to point you in the right direction.

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im in london. Can go anywhere really. Martyn was ace as per normal and has let me know why i couldnt find a liner puller,

A hollow hydraulic ram is what i need. Sadly I cant remember the second bit you said as i was driving and may of got the first bit wrong too :) My excuse was that i was in the car driving. If youre reading this martyn what was it again?

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What your looking for is something along the lines of below

 

Ebay link Hydraulic Ram

 

&

 

Ebay link Hydraulic pump (Enerpac which I mentioned yesterday is a brand)

 

along with a length of as large as possible high tensile stud bar (that will fit through the ram) with a couple of nuts. Ours is

 

And a plate to fit the bottom of the liner (30mm thick ish) with a hole for the above stud bar.

 

And a stand for the ram on the top that will allow some space for the liner to pull out. the bottom of this stand ideally should have a hole in the middle just larger than the liner and contact all around the top face of the block to minimise the change of breaking lumps out.

 

I will see if I can find a picture of ours setup on an engine when I get back to my computer later. but esentially what your will need to try to rent is the ram and associated pump the rest will need to be made up.

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Scary stuff! The thought of ripping the deck out of the block must focus your attention nicely

 

Would it be worth machining a liner out, Martyn?

 

Richard

You could if it wont budge. but normally they do in JP's just makes you a bit twitchy as the pressure gauge on the hydraulics starts getting high.

 

Londonron - forgot to mention yesterday, make sure once the liner is removed that you clean all the faces in the block at the top and bottom that the liner contacts. if the bottom hole in the block and most importantly the radius at the top of it are badly corroded/pitted (Fairly common) this will need to be dressed/repairs before trying to fit the new liners. If you don't then you run the risk of trashing the liner o rings.

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Londonron - forgot to mention yesterday, make sure once the liner is removed that you clean all the faces in the block at the top and bottom that the liner contacts. if the bottom hole in the block and most importantly the radius at the top of it are badly corroded/pitted (Fairly common) this will need to be dressed/repairs before trying to fit the new liners. If you don't then you run the risk of trashing the liner o rings.

 

Not sure what your thoughts are on this but the Lister manual suggests fitting liner initially without "O" rings and grinding in top mating surfaces with valve grinding paste as per this post to achieve correct protrusion above block deck.

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Not sure what your thoughts are on this but the Lister manual suggests fitting liner initially without "O" rings and grinding in top mating surfaces with valve grinding paste as per this post to achieve correct protrusion above block deck.

Yep it does say that, but in most cases its not necessary. with OEM liners I haven't found one yet that is too high, the odd one or two that have been too low, but then no amount of grinding past will fix that.....

 

It is however good practice to dry fit the liners to check the protrusion before final fit. Oh and don't forget to get the cutouts in the bottom of the liners in the right orientation when fitting them for the last time.....

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