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Lister internal fuel leaks


RLWP

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An excellent contribution Richard, you've put some thought into that and made it easy to comprehend. A very common problem and oft asked.

Can you just expand slightly on the shortbread tin in the first photo please?

 

Z

 

Erm - hang on, I'll check

 

There's more to come on spill rails

 

Richard

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Maybe the thin self-bleed pipes some have running up from the pumps bleed screws to the leak off/spill rail. Very thin and unsupported with a tendency to fatigue fracture.

 

Good point Tony - I'll see if I have a set

 

Thank you

 

Richard

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi Richard 

 

I have just had a STW3 put back together recently love the pics very handy to see, I think I have stuck rails  as the engine doesn't want to hold revs and is'nt powerful enough to make way any suggestion welcomed .

 

 

Cheers

Garrick

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Not sure what you mean by rails but if its the injector pump rack and links you can watch them (at least you can on SLs) with the side cover off and engine running. If you set maximum speed and operate the cold start device on a stationary the rack should jump forward . Likewise as you close the throttle the rack should move back under spring pressure.

If its stuck it is usually one or more injector pumps are twisted so loosen the hold down boat and play with the pumps while pushing the rack to max speed by hand and letting it jump back, then tighten the bolts.

If your rails are something different or if the STs differ radically from SLs this is not a lot of use.

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11 hours ago, Kahana 2 said:

Hi Richard 

I have just had a STW3 put back together recently love the pics very handy to see, I think I have stuck rails  as the engine doesn't want to hold revs and is'nt powerful enough to make way any suggestion welcomed .

Cheers

Garrick

What happens with no load, will the engine rev and idle properly like that?

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Hi,  

I think the copper washers on the connector into my CAV fuel pump may need to be replaced as there is a film of diesel running down the fuel line (i have tried to tighten).  Is it best to use Dowty washers or replace with copper washers?  I am not sure if they are a standard size (JP3 (industrial unit) but if they are any suggestions about where to source a pair would be gratefully received. 

Regards

Tom

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1 hour ago, Capella247 said:

Hi,  

I think the copper washers on the connector into my CAV fuel pump may need to be replaced as there is a film of diesel running down the fuel line (i have tried to tighten).  Is it best to use Dowty washers or replace with copper washers?  I am not sure if they are a standard size (JP3 (industrial unit) but if they are any suggestions about where to source a pair would be gratefully received. 

Regards

Tom

You can anneal the existing  

copper ones.  Just get them red hot (gas cooker ring will do) and allow to cool.  You can drop them into water but that is not essential.

Then use as normal.

N

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Are all three cylinders working?  To test--- Start engine and de-compress each cylinder in turn with the levers. If any cylinder does not cause a missfire and lower the engine revs it is faulty. If ok. A temporary trial fix might be gained by moving the control lever locating plate. That is the little oval plate aft of the injector pumps and outside of the block. The engine stop device should be attached to it. FIRST MARK ITS PRESENT POSITION so that it can be returned to it and slacken the bolt H which  is in the adjusting slot in the picture. Move the plate fully to the left, it might be to the right on your engine and tighten the bolt and try it. This will override the governor to a degree so don't over rev the engine.

002.JPG

Edited by bizzard
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