Water Tank Leak

[jenevers]

That's what I have (between tank and water pump) but without a cut-off valve. Sorry what's that for? There's an isolator after the tank before the sight tube - is that what you meant? The tube is at knee level but the water level can easily be seen without kneeling.

 

 

The sight pipe has to be capped at the top otherwise the pump will pull the water out of it and pull air into the system. I just taped on a 15mm radiator valve. The pump creates a vacuum in the headspace of the pipe, so to find the current water level you just open the valve at the top of the pipe and then close it again, but you shouldn't do this while the pump is running.

 

Nice one!

[blackrose]

The cutoff valve in the bottom of the standpipe surely does the same job as the vent valve at the top of yours. Either way works, but as you note, with neither air may be drawn in.

 

I see, I didn't realise he meant that the cutoff valve was in the bottom of the standpipe itself. It's odd but that idea never even occurred to me when I made mine. I think I prefer the valve at the top as you don't have to stoop down to operate it. Also you need something at the top anyway to stop anything crawling into the pipe.

Edited September 5, 2015 by blackrose

[blackrose]

And put a floating plastic bead in the tube, so it is easier to see the water level, particularly if it is in a fairly inaccessible location.

 

 

I wouldn't do that because sooner or later you WILL forget to close the valve and then you'll have a plastic bead stuck in your water pump. A bit of air in the system can soon be flushed out, but a plastic bead in the system may be more agg. But I guess if you have an accessible strainer before the pump then it's ok.

Edited September 5, 2015 by blackrose

[David Mack]

 

I wouldn't do that because sooner or later you WILL forget to close the valve and then you'll have a plastic bead stuck in your water pump. A bit of air in the system can soon be flushed out, but a plastic bead in the system may be more agg. But I guess if you have an accessible strainer before the pump then it's ok.

 

Ideally there would be restrictor in the bottom of the standpipe which is smaller than the bead.

[jenevers]

 

 

 

 

That's what I have (between tank and water pump) but without a cut-off valve. Sorry what's that for? There's an isolator after the tank before the sight tube - is that what you meant? The tube is at knee level but the water level can easily be seen without kneeling.

 

 

The sight pipe has to be capped at the top otherwise the pump will pull the water out of it and pull air into the system. I just taped on a 15mm radiator valve. The pump creates a vacuum in the headspace of the pipe, so to find the current water level you just open the valve at the top of the pipe and then close it again, but you shouldn't do this while the pump is running.

 

I like it. How did you join the copper pipe to the plastic tube? Not clear in the photos.

[Murflynn]

Doesn't help OP fix his leak, does it?

[Bee]

My Honda Civic has a bit of a fuel gauge issue. I think I will try Bizzards idea, just hope I can distinguish the Bongs and clangs from the tank from the clonks and dings from the cv joints.

[jenevers]

Doesn't help OP fix his leak, does it?

Sylglass tape ( as per #2 by Bee)

[MtB]

Sylglass tape ( as per #2 by Bee)

 

 

A monumental bodge though!

 

Being a petroleum-based goo on a fabric carrier tape, there is no guarantee the goo won't adversely chemically react with the plastic of the tank.

[Murflynn]

I believe that aquarists use a type of superglue to assemble plastic tanks.

if the location of the leak (exterior) is known there is a good chance that superglue applied at that point will migrate into the joint by capillary action and make a seal.

[MtB]

I believe that aquarists use a type of superglue to assemble plastic tanks.

if the location of the leak (exterior) is known there is a good chance that superglue applied at that point will migrate into the joint by capillary action and make a seal.

 

 

The type of plastic the tank is made from is critical. I asked earlier in the thread if it was polythene or ABS as one can be glued, the other can't.

 

I don't recall seeing an answer to my question

[Terryb]

Just sticking twopenny worth in here guys.

If you just want to know when you get close to the bottom, how about one of these. It's up to you to fit it as near to the bottom as you see fit.

Just empty your tank, drill the required hole, insert switch place nut over wiring and tighten. The switch can be held from outside the tank while you do so. Simples

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Water-Level-Sensor-Horizontal-Liquid-PP-Side-Mount-Float-Switch-For-Pool-Tank-/261328164676?hash=item3cd85f5744

[blackrose]

I like it. How did you join the copper pipe to the plastic tube? Not clear in the photos.

I don't have copper pipe. My main pipe run for fresh water is Hep20 plastic so I just used a push-fit plastic T. The clear pipe is rigid so it didn't need a ferrule.

Edited September 25, 2015 by blackrose