Isuzu 35/42 - priming or bleeding

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

Next episode will be gear oil ............... why on earth do the put the drain plug underneath the sump!

Gear lever very very stiff, is this indicative of wrong oil,  possibly no oil?

 

 

Much more likely to be a cable or cable adjustment problem  but that is a mechanical box and they will require a little more effort to change gear than a hydraulic one so it rather depends upon what you are comparing it with.

[LadyG]

23 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Much more likely to be a cable or cable adjustment problem  but that is a mechanical box and they will require a little more effort to change gear than a hydraulic one so it rather depends upon what you are comparing it with.

It was a guy who drove the boat.

I think it is OK when I am in the driving position, the throttle , to my mind is perfect.

Having driven numerous vehicles, tractors/lorries/ a bus/ bikes/ cars and vans old and new, I am OK with it.

It is very very stiff to change gear when no engine on, and I am reaching from the wrong position

I have splooshed plenty of oil over the levers. cables and external bits. it is well oiled by me, and I am not too worried, just thought I'd mention it.

 

Edited May 2, 2020 by LadyG

[Flyboy]

On 28/04/2020 at 12:56, bizzard said:

You need to oil or grease the O ring face, the face which goes against the engine, silicone grease is good, for ease of removal in future. Don't overtighten. This applies to both oil and fuel spin on filters. When spin on filters first came on the scene, motor cars, early 1970's Rootes group Hillman Minx and that range were one of the first to use the spin on oil filters, many a time I had to carefully bang a large sharp scredriver right through them for double leveridge to remove them. If you do bang a screwdriver though it drive it through close to the outer end as there is sometimes a short threaded tube which they screw onto. piercing it through the outer edge will ensure you miss it.

Spin on filters in the UK go way further back than that. The Austin A30  803cc  A series in the early 50's had a spin on oil filter as did the Standard 8 and Reliant Regal. If I remember correctlly they had a male thread.

[ditchcrawler]

29 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Spin on filters in the UK go way further back than that. The Austin A30  803cc  A series in the early 50's had a spin on oil filter as did the Standard 8 and Reliant Regal. If I remember correctlly they had a male thread.

My A30 didn't, you lay underneath and get oil running down your are as you took it to bits and then struggled to keep the rubber seal in place when you tried to put it all back together

[Flyboy]

Just now, ditchcrawler said:

My A30 didn't, you lay underneath and get oil running down your are as you took it to bits and then struggled to keep the rubber seal in place when you tried to put it all back together

I expect that was an A 35 with a 948 cc A series.  A30's had the 803cc engine which didn't have the later full flow filter you describe.

[ditchcrawler]

3 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

I expect that was an A 35 with a 948 cc A series.  A30's had the 803cc engine which didn't have the later full flow filter you describe.

No it was a 4 door A30, my first ever car and from time to time the distributor clamp would let the distributor jump out. Surprisingly I can't remember the registration number, being the first car you would think I could

[bizzard]

53 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Spin on filters in the UK go way further back than that. The Austin A30  803cc  A series in the early 50's had a spin on oil filter as did the Standard 8 and Reliant Regal. If I remember correctlly they had a male thread.

You may be right, it's a long time ago, but I think they may have been after market mods. I certainly don't remember the 803cc A30 engine having one nor the Standard 8, I had one.  The Rootes group oil filters in the 4 cylinder engines stuck in my mind were inverted, upside down on the starboard side and were originally a paper element in a bolt screw on bowl, and made a mess when undone. The later spin on ones that replaced them also made a mess.

[Flyboy]

10 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

No it was a 4 door A30, my first ever car and from time to time the distributor clamp would let the distributor jump out. Surprisingly I can't remember the registration number, being the first car you would think I could

I expect someone had fitted it with a 948cc engine at a later date.  All A 30's came only with a 803cc engine and produced from 1952- 56.   You can see the spin on filter in the picture below the dynamo.

6 minutes ago, bizzard said:

You may be right, it's a long time ago, but I think they may have been after market mods. I certainly don't remember the 803cc A30 engine having one nor the Standard 8, I had one.  The Rootes group oil filters in the 4 cylinder engines stuck in my mind were inverted, upside down on the starboard side and were originally a paper element in a bolt screw on bowl, and made a mess when undone. The later spin on ones that replaced them also made a mess.

See picture in post 58.

[LadyG]

gosh

[LadyG]

On 02/05/2020 at 13:34, Tony Brooks said:

 

Much more likely to be a cable or cable adjustment problem  but that is a mechanical box and they will require a little more effort to change gear than a hydraulic one so it rather depends upon what you are comparing it with.

Just resurrecting this as I am thinking about oil changes, though not done many hours, maybe 200 before I am back on The Trent.

I have used synthetic spray , PTFE or Silicon to ease the morso gear lever "up" , I think it is much better than it was, but needs two hands if it's wet and therefore slippery.

It is stiff, but it works ........

I'll top up with diesel at West Stockwith and wait 24 hours to make sure it has settled, not sure if I should replece fuel filter and check it for sediment. If I get a fuel sample from bottom of tank, how big does that sample need to be, I mean, can I just sample with a clear tube attached to a stick?

[bizzard]

3 hours ago, LadyG said:

Just resurrecting this as I am thinking about oil changes, though not done many hours, maybe 200 before I am back on The Trent.

I have used synthetic spray , PTFE or Silicon to ease the morso gear lever "up" , I think it is much better than it was, but needs two hands if it's wet and therefore slippery.

It is stiff, but it works ........

I'll top up with diesel at West Stockwith and wait 24 hours to make sure it has settled, not sure if I should replece fuel filter and check it for sediment. If I get a fuel sample from bottom of tank, how big does that sample need to be, I mean, can I just sample with a clear tube attached to a stick?

Scientifically. Use a spirit level on the tank top to indicate roughly where any water will gather in the bottom of the  tank, usually towards the back. Use it when poised in the position you will be working with the pump tube, if your an HGV and not a light van all the better, the water will gather more positively over towards the filler side where you would be working and be easier to suck out.

Edited October 24, 2020 by bizzard

[Tony Brooks]

3 hours ago, LadyG said:

Just resurrecting this as I am thinking about oil changes, though not done many hours, maybe 200 before I am back on The Trent.

I have used synthetic spray , PTFE or Silicon to ease the morso gear lever "up" , I think it is much better than it was, but needs two hands if it's wet and therefore slippery.

It is stiff, but it works ........

I'll top up with diesel at West Stockwith and wait 24 hours to make sure it has settled, not sure if I should replece fuel filter and check it for sediment. If I get a fuel sample from bottom of tank, how big does that sample need to be, I mean, can I just sample with a clear tube attached to a stick?

 

I think that you probably need one or two new cables depending upon if its the throttle or gear change that is stiff. When cables get stiff the are well on the way to snapping.

 

If you are intent on getting the majority of water out of the tank I used a length of copper pipe stuck into clear plastic pipe with the copper bent to reach the low areas in the tank. I then syphoned the liquid into four pint milk cartons until No more discoloured fuel, dirt or water was coming through the tube. Unless done regularly you are likely to get several litres.

 

How many "filters" do you have. If its two, one on the engine and another somewhere between tank and engine then the one between tank and engine probably has a drain plug in the bottom. That will allow you to drain it into a plastic tub and see what it caught. As long as you leave the fuel tap on while doing this you will not have to bleed the system.

 

If you only have an engine mounted filter then it may or may not have a drain plug but if it does loosen it and use the priming pump/lever (if you have one) to force liquid from the filter. You probably won't have to bleed the system but no guarantees,