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Full repaint


tjh82

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Hi all,

 

I'm hoping to repaint my steel narrowboat this September. She's 56ft and after a painfully slow 2 year internal refit it's almost time to give the outside some TLC.

 

So my plan was this:

 

ROOF: The roof is a right state, i was going to take this back to bare steel with a rotary scabbler. I was going to remove as much rust as i could with a wire wheel on an angle grinder or maybe a needle gun. I was then going to treat the whole roof with Fertan then sugar soap and wash. I was then going to treat with 2 coats of Red Oxide.

 

SIDES: Sand back with a random orbit sander. Remove rust patched with angle grinder and again treat with Fertan, then wash and coat with 2 coats of Red Oxide.

 

Once I've done this i was going to apply 2 coats of undercoat then 2 coats of top coat gloss. (I was thinking International Toplac)

 

Sorry if this is going over old ground but and tips would be much appreciated or just a general nod if this plan doesn't sound too stupid.

 

This bit might though...i'm hoping to get all the prep done asap then do all the painting in the fist 2 weeks of September.

 

Thanks a lot!

 

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Sounds about right, I have never used a scabbler, or had a roof that needed, but I hear they are good.

 

Vactan/Fertan, I don't think there is much in it although not identical process/drying time.

 

Red oxide is a slight missnoma (sp?) as what you will use won't have any red lead in it, but a good primer suitable for the topcoat, yes. May be a reddy brown, or grey, typically. Slightly depends what color topcoat your going for!

 

We don't aim for high gloss, and use a two pack polyurethane topcoat for our foof and cabin which lasts really very wel but isn't to everyone's taste.

 

Having used Toplac on a sailing dingy I goes on well, in again wasn't aiming for perfection but its good paint.

 

Use the best paint you can always is my rule. Sometimes harder to know what's best, and you can pay over the odds for aome brands i am sure, but certainly while I wouldn't aim to spend more if I could get as good for less, I would never aim to save money by buying cheap paint.

 

 

Daniel

 

* Sits back to wait for others comments!

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Vactan/Fertan, I don't think there is much in it although not identical process/drying time.

 

I don't know if we were unlucky, (maybe a bad batch), but we had a complete disaster using Fertan instead of Vactan.

 

It seemed to do just about anything except what it was claimed to do.

 

I would never touch it again, but never had the same issues with Vactan.

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ROOF: The roof is a right state, i was going to take this back to bare steel with a rotary scabbler. I was going to remove as much rust as i could with a wire wheel on an angle grinder or maybe a needle gun. I was then going to treat the whole roof with Fertan then sugar soap and wash. I was then going to treat with 2 coats of Red Oxide.

 

Standard red oxide primer may not be suitable as a finish coat. You can get Red Oxide gloss from some suppliers, which is said to be more weather resistant, but equally may be more slippery if you are in the habit of walking on the roof when wet. Others swear by Craftmaster Raddle Red as a red oxide-look mid-sheen finish.

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Zinc Phosphate metal primer is much better than red oxide.

Agreed. Although it does show scuff marks from cabin shafts, gang planks etc. I reckon that I need to re-do the roofs, especially of the butty which gets a lot of wear, every couple of years to keep them looking smart.

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Agreed. Although it does show scuff marks from cabin shafts, gang planks etc. I reckon that I need to re-do the roofs, especially of the butty which gets a lot of wear, every couple of years to keep them looking smart.

Yes but I meant a zinc phosphate metal primer for priming bare metal for underneath finishing coats of paint and not as an actual finishing coat.

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Thanks for all the input, reckon I'll use 2 coats of Bonda-primer on the bare steel followed by the 2 undercoat and 2 top coats.

 

Would I also prime the sides that will just be the current paint job sanded (rather than going back to bare steel) or would i just undercoat them?

 

Thanks again for all help!

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I will prime the sides and 240/320 grit with a random orbital to get a smooth finish. The problem with sanding the sides is the grit you have to use. If the sides are in good order you can use 240/320 directly. Sometimes you have to use 80/120 grit and this is to coarse for the top coat.

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Www.jonbarnard.biz

 

Watch all the videos in detail and you will learn loads. I doubt you will put everything into practice, but you will do a better job after watching than before

 

I've just used Toplac Black for the sides, and Craftmaster Alpha Red for the rails. The Craftmaster paints seem much better quality.

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I seem to remember from the past, paint the roof in gloss whatever colour takes your fancy, pink? Let it cure then paint with red oxide. The gloss acts as it would normally and the red gives you the colour.

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I don't know if we were unlucky, (maybe a bad batch), but we had a complete disaster using Fertan instead of Vactan.

 

Interesting, only ever used vactan, and kurust back in the day, never had any application issues infact its been faultless, although I have yet to really test its long term (like 20years) durability.

Zinc Phosphate metal primer is much better than red oxide.

So far the only time i have used zinc phosphate was dulux weather shields zinc phos and it was a right pig to paint.and basically unsandable, really didn't want to go on well at all. Didn't think much of the metalshield topcoat either tbh. Presumably other zinc phos is better.

Did the inside of the digger with black friers primer and then QD90, again its too soon to say what the duration will be like but it went on lovely.

Of course. Vodka's good.

I use panel wipe....
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