Silebyman Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 I'm considering installing diesel heating on my 57ft boat. Not yet made the decision on whether to go Eber or Webasto. My question concerns the best method of mounting the parts in the engine compartment. Searching the web I've seen the various parts mounted around the compartment, or grouped together on what looks like a plate or painted board. All on a board looks neater to me such as in the picture I've attached. Is it normal practice to get nuts welded on to secure the parts, clip hoses and so on, or is there a better way? I could drill and tap into the bulkhead, or am I then opening myself up to lots of noise being transmitted into the cabin? I've picked up on the 22mm pipe for the feed and return lines to the rads - Is it acceptable to go through the bulkhead at 15mm then increase afterwards? The picture seems to show 15mm polypipe coming off the Webasto. I believe I need to get the install commissioned properly once I've done the install to check the burn etc. Can anyone recommend someone in the Loughborough / River Soar area? Thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Lola Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Make sure you get a muffler for the pump, makes a huge difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Make sure you get a muffler for the exhaust, makes a huge difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pearley Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 I would recommend longer rubber pipes. Will be difficult to clamp those very short ones in the pic when you want to service it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silebyman Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 I was planning on buying the narrowboat kit from which ever supplier I settle on, which I believe comes with a marine muffler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Looks a right pig to service in the location in your photo. Make sure access to it is really easy, you'll be needing it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silebyman Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Are welding nuts onto the swim etc the only successful way to clip pipe runs etc or is there a more simple way I'm missing. Is it acceptable practice to take the diesel feed from the second port on the CAV filter assuming I use the correct bore pipe (2mm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 You could drill holes in the swim and put bolts through from the outside and nuts on the inside, with sealant, to create fixing studs. Otherwise glue timber battens in place with marineFlex... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUMPY Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Are welding nuts onto the swim etc the only successful way to clip pipe runs etc or is there a more simple way I'm missing. Is it acceptable practice to take the diesel feed from the second port on the CAV filter assuming I use the correct bore pipe (2mm) Mine is taken from the engine feed after the water trap fed with 5/16 to its own filter then 2mm. Not recomemded as the engine lift pump when running can starve the heater. We never use the two at the same time so its not a problem if it does, it didn't do it when I tested it....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silebyman Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 I'd thought about battens, or small steel pieces either tapped or with a bolt though to provide a stud, but I was concerned Marineflex or Stixall would not be man enough particularly with a vertical load. I'm more than happy to be corrected though as I don't have access (or skills) to a welder. Thanks for the info so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 I'd thought about battens, or small steel pieces either tapped or with a bolt though to provide a stud, but I was concerned Marineflex or Stixall would not be man enough particularly with a vertical load. I'm more than happy to be corrected though as I don't have access (or skills) to a welder. Thanks for the info so far Marineflex is surprisingly strong but I'd prefer not to trust it either. Especially as the metal-to-paint bond underneath it would probably be the fail point. Vertical battens fixed with marineFlex perhaps, with one sealed bolt though the wood and the metal at the top of each batten? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nb Innisfree Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Mine is taken from the engine feed after the water trap fed with 5/16 to its own filter then 2mm. Not recomemded as the engine lift pump when running can starve the heater. We never use the two at the same time so its not a problem if it does, it didn't do it when I tested it....... I went against perceived wisdom and ran 9mm copper pipe to a tee then divided to engine and Mikuni, never been any issues with fuel supply when running together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pearley Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 My Webasto installation is similar to the photo in the first post. I can't see any fixings so assume the board is fixed to the steel with Sikaflex or similar. Been there 8 years with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Looks a right pig to service in the location in your photo. Make sure access to it is really easy, you'll be needing it! Wouldn't you just take it off the bulkhead for servicing,or you mean it's difficult to get it off the bulkhead? On the subject off marineflex, I've stuck sheets of ply to steel bulkheads and mounted things on them. If you key both surfaces first and wipe the dust off with a cloth dampened with white spirit you'll never get it off. The ply does need support until the marineflex goes off though. Edited July 28, 2015 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted July 28, 2015 Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 I welded a steel plate to the swim and bolted the webby to that, I stuck battens down with sikaflex to fix fuel ilnes and wiring, I drilled the fuel tank at the top and fitted the dip tube then straight to the supplied filter, you must fit 3/4" running nipples through bulkhead for the radiators, NOT 1/2" You can use 1/2" for the calorifier though. I got NMEA to connect it up and commission it for me. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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