Blocking off window holes

[timboharticus]

Does anyone have any experience , comments on methods of filling in window holes.

 

I want less windows and some portholes.

[John Orentas]

Tim.

 

This is very difficult to do, impossible to get it completely invisible.

 

Cut a plate of the same thickness. MIG welder is a must, tack weld in place from both sides but do not continuous weld.

 

Alternative put the filler plate in place and tack 2 inch wide frame all round inside bridging the join, again minimum of tack welds. Finish with body filler.

 

Try do disguise the job with the paint scheme, fix portholes across a join.

[Paul Evans]

An alternative approach might be to go for 'panelled' cabin sides.

 

Plates cut slightly larger than the widow holes could be welded on the outside to give a raised panel effect or on the inside to provide recessed panels. Whether they should be tack or continuously welded is beyond my experience and you would need to take advice.

 

You could then mount the portholes in the centre of the new plates.

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

sigh.... I have a simlar problem...

as most of you regulars will know, i haven't had this new boat more than a few weeks, and within a day of having her, it was apparent that a big clanger had been dropped

 

In my bathroom I have two ports, one either side and it wasn't spotted by myself or the boatbuilder when planning the boat, that the porthole on one side would be directly where you stand, when in the shower!!!! I do have frosted glass in them but when your in the shower its a right floor show for people outside! a curtain would be forever wet through, so im thinking of leaded glass or even blocking it all together :/

 

Just show's you, even seasoned boat planners can and do get it wrong....

[Paul Evans]

Where are you moored Wynd Lass? Leer, leer......

 

To maintain your undoubted modesty, cut a circle of ply of the same diameter as the porthole, cover it with a plastic or waterproof material, fix a knob in the middle and plug it into place when you want to use the shower. Considerably cheaper and easier than having the porthole removed completely!

[Big COL]

wynd lass

 

We have porthole plugs which are round pieces of 3''deep foam slightly larger in diameter than the porthole, covered in material with a tassel for pulling them out they work very well. Joy (ocm) made them herself.The same design using a waterproof material will put an end to your embarrassment.

 

PS where did you say you were moored

Edited February 12, 2005 by Big COL

[ChrisPy]

which side do you moor up to the towpath, shower side?

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

maybe i ought to consider selling tickets........

 

luckily its a marina mooring! and boats both side are unoccupied......lol

Edited February 12, 2005 by wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)

[Paul Evans]

And I was just about to get on me bike......

[maffi mushkila]

Does anyone have any experience , comments on methods of filling in window holes.

 

I want less windows and some portholes.

 

Ya ticked a few boxes there lass

 

What you need is a body like mine, no one would bother you.

[ChrisPy]

seriously, to avoid a lot of unnecessary work, why not leave the offending portholes in place, paint the inside of the glass black, and then complete the lining and insulation on the inside. Cover the patch with a mirror or some other feature.

 

any welding work will leave you with distorted side panels.

[bottle]

seriously, to avoid a lot of unnecessary work, why not leave the offending portholes in place, paint the inside of the glass black, and then complete the lining and insulation on the inside.  Cover the patch with a mirror or some other feature.

 

any welding work will leave you with distorted side panels.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Chris is right this is a serious matter and I agree with his idea. This would protect a ladies modesty.

 

 

 

Wynd lass are the boats either side for hire

[DHutch]

Any welding work will leave you with distorted side panels.

Yeah, you could get it brased thought?

 

- cut a pannel to fit

- cut a plate to go across the join (behind it)

- and then brase it together

[ChrisPy]

Yeah, you could get it brased thought?

 

- cut a pannel to fit

- cut a plate to go across the join (behind it)

- and then brase it together

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

still look like a distorted mess. and the exposed aperture won't be very regular. I wouldn't.

you could bolt a name board over the hole. nice fancy signwriting (in Latin - 'a hole was here' - or summat).

Edited February 15, 2005 by chris polley

[John Orentas]

Brazing would be worse than welding.

 

There would be something to be said for using backing strips then countersunk pop-rivets and filling. A lot of work but a minimum of distortion.

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

Chris: I like that idea.........unfortunately the bathroom walls are in/on, and its covered with that stuff that looks like marble and feels like plastic.......(oh im having a blonde day today!)

 

Mum suggested another shower curtain on the wall side?

simple, inexpensive and err.......what do you think of that?

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

And another thing..........I don't want distorted sides.........I like them wobble free and straight........just the way god(Heron) intedned!

[ChrisPy]

And another thing..........I don't want distorted sides.........I like them wobble free and straight........just the way god(Heron) intedned!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'll bet your sides are just fine and dandy

[bottle]

I'll bet your sides are just fine and dandy 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Don't forget the bow and stern they have to be in proportion

[Richard Bustens]

And i think they should be a bit wobbley,

[bottle]

And i think they should be a bit wobbley,

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

I think we should go to the bar with this

[Big COL]

Brazing would be worse than welding.

 

There would be something to be said for using backing strips then countersunk pop-rivets and filling.  A lot of work but a minimum of distortion.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Hi John

 

Vintage car restoration, the old ways are still the best.

 

Cut your window infill with the port hole already cut out, bevel the edges of the infill and the edges of the window hole. Apply good Tack welds to the infill at the corners and in the middle of the sides, using stick solder plumb and wipe the joint, rub down with coarse paper and finish off with a small amount of body filler then fine paper

Edited February 15, 2005 by Big COL

[david and julie]

Would need a lot more heat though on 4mm ish plate than a car though.

 

I would of thought John Orentas's rivet suggestion was the most sensible myself. Any heat on a big panel could be disastrous. Do you think dome headed nuts and bolts( I have seen them with a plain dome) would more resemble a proper rivet and overlapping plate would look more as if it belonged there? Obviously it would need a nice piece of steel and symetrical holes, the size of rivet must also be in keeping. Trying to hide something usually makes it stand out more.

[stuart]

sigh.... I have a simlar problem...

as most of you regulars will know, i haven't had this new boat more than a few weeks, and within a day of having her, it was apparent that a big clanger had been dropped

 

In my bathroom I have two ports, one either side and it wasn't spotted by myself or the boatbuilder when planning the boat, that the porthole on one side would be directly where you stand, when in the shower!!!! I do have frosted glass in them but when your in the shower its a right floor show for people outside! a curtain would be forever wet through, so im thinking of leaded glass or even blocking it all together :/

 

Just show's you, even seasoned boat planners can and do get it wrong....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I've mentioned before but you could try out the window tint stuff the boy racers use on there cars. Still lets light through but nothing out. Shame

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

another very good suggestion stuart....sometimes we look at the hardest route first.......forgetting simple options like that!