This is my plan of the day:

 

Like on many boats, our gas locker is very wet. We need to raise the floor above the water line, to prevent further rot.

 

Surveyor and others recommend welding. This will involve cutting to gain access...I think it'll be done in a few years, when the boat is out, and we may epoxy the hull.

 

As an interim, I was considering materials. I've read that people have used concrete, and even Kingspan!!

 

My thought was to use something like this:

 

http://www.robinsonsequestrian.com/liquid-rubber-floor.html

 

 

 

It bonds with steel, is designed to resist impact and vibration, and is, indeed waterproof.

 

Plus, we wouldn't need a rubber mat in the locker!

 

 

If I were to clean up, weld the vents shut, and cut higher ones, and then pour some of this in, would I make my life better, or worse?

Edited May 22, 201511 yr by Rendelf

This is my plan of the day:

Like on many boats, our gas locker is very wet. We need to raise the floor above the water line, to prevent further rot.

Surveyor and other recommend welding. This will involve cutting to gain access...I think it'll be done in a few years, when the boat is out, and we may epoxy the hull.

As an interim, I was considering materials. I've read that people have used concrete, and even Kingspan!!

My thought was to use something like this:

http://www.robinsonsequestrian.com/liquid-rubber-floor.html

It bonds with steel, is designed to resist impact and vibration, and is, indeed waterproof.

Plus, we wouldn't need a rubber mat in the locker!

If I were to clean up, weld the vents, and then pour some of this in, would I make my life better, or worse?

It says that it needs to bond to a 'sound' surface so if your locker floor is badly rusted this is unlikely to be the case. Any gap will still allow water between it and the floor and it will continue to rust away, except you won't be able to see it.

Wouldn't treating the rust, and then using a powered wire brush to rub down, followed by priming / painting make it sound?

Wouldn't treating the rust, and then using a powered wire brush to rub down, followed by priming / painting make it sound?

 

Well yes it likely would if you did a a really good job and also used a rust converter/inhibitor. But If you are going to do that good a job you might not need to raise the floor anyway.

 

Don't forget if you do raise the floor you will need to recreate the vents and before you do anything check the clearance between the bottle tops and the locker top or a 13kg bottle might not fit in after the work.

Thanks,

 

The space is much too large for the bottles, so they would certainly fit.

 

Do you think that a really good job with rust conversion and hard-wearing epoxy, combined with a thick, draining mat (and one person has suggested a coating of grease!) would render the job needless in the long term then?

Thanks,

 

The space is much too large for the bottles, so they would certainly fit.

 

Do you think that a really good job with rust conversion and hard-wearing epoxy, combined with a thick, draining mat (and one person has suggested a coating of grease!) would render the job needless in the long term then?

 

I did this 2 years ago because ours was in a right old state - the epoxy primer is still in excellent condition on no new rust. I would definitely recommend doing this. I used this: http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/c28117/

Thanks,

The space is much too large for the bottles, so they would certainly fit.

Do you think that a really good job with rust conversion and hard-wearing epoxy, combined with a thick, draining mat (and one person has suggested a coating of grease!) would render the job needless in the long term then?

I'm not sure what added benefit the grease would bring if you do a really good job, it would need to be reapplied pretty often and when combined with water will make a bit of sludgy moist mess in the bottom of the locker. It would also cause a very small amount of water contamination when the sludgy mess drains back into the canal.

 

I also have doubts about mats in lockers as I think no matter what the claims are they will retain water somewhere, when ideally you want it all to drain away. If you are careful lifting the bottles in there should be no real need. Others may disagree, but I would just go for doing a really good de rust and paint and leave it at that.

 

(I do think these lockers are one of the daftest design features of many a modern Narrowboat (ours has one too.)

This is my plan of the day:

 

Like on many boats, our gas locker is very wet. We need to raise the floor above the water line, to prevent further rot.

 

 

That could turn out to be an incorrect assumption!

 

My gas locker floor is 4 or 5" above the waterline yet the floor inside the gas locker is always swimming with water after a cruise. You could put quite a bit of effort into raising the floor only to find it makes no difference.

 

I suggest just making sure the inside of the gas locker is nicely painted. And re-paint it periodically whenever new rust begins to appear.

Thanks all. That's a shame.... I was a little excited about pouring liquid rubber into the locker.

 

Perhaps I can do the floor inside instead.

Thanks all. That's a shame.... I was a little excited about pouring liquid rubber into the locker.

 

Perhaps I can do the floor inside instead.

 

Yes it does sound rather cool doesn't it?

 

But I bet your gas locker base isn't exactly level so it would all pool up against the gas locker bulkhead.

 

AND the rust would carry on underneath it, once water worms its way into the bond, as it surely will in the fulness of time...

Since virtually all bow gas lockers by nature of design get water in at some time or other, particularly if on rivers with bow waves etc., why not work with what you have. Spend time getting rid of all loose rust, inhibiting surface then applying a couple of coats of good quality paint. I used Hammerite. Once done a fresh coat of paint every couple of years should suffice to stop any further corrosion. This assumes the boat has been correctly built with floor of locker sloping back to where vents are located. If not add vents at lowest point. Removing ballast or heavy stored items near bow may help as well.

 

Whatever you do please forget the liquid rubber solution.

Whatever you do please forget the liquid rubber solution.

 

Not sure about this, what do you cover the steelwork on a boat, which is a wet environment with? - Hull blacking, so why not treat the gas locker floor with a bitumen based product to seal it well.

 

Assuming it has been well cleaned, is dry and in good condition why not use such a product.

 

My gas locker fitted the above criteria and on a hot day I mixed up a mixture of white spirit, roofing adhesive and poured it into the locker. It is self leveling and probably about 7mm thick.

 

When dry you have a good durable waterproof locker floor which with some thin timber bearers is well able to support gas bottles.

 

L.

This is my plan of the day:

Like on many boats, our gas locker is very wet. We need to raise the floor above the water line, to prevent further rot.

Surveyor and others recommend welding. This will involve cutting to gain access...I think it'll be done in a few years, when the boat is out, and we may epoxy the hull.

As an interim, I was considering materials. I've read that people have used concrete, and even Kingspan!!

My thought was to use something like this: http://www.robinsonsequestrian.com/liquid-rubber-floor.html

It bonds with steel, is designed to resist impact and vibration, and is, indeed waterproof.

Plus, we wouldn't need a rubber mat in the locker!

If I were to clean up, weld the vents shut, and cut higher ones, and then pour some of this in, would I make my life better, or worse?

How have you progressed with this? I'm interested as I have a similar problem with a wet locker except the bottom of my locker is concrete, previous owner had to raise it to comply with BSS!

.......................... previous owner had to raise it to comply with BSS!

why?

as long as the slotted drains reach from above water level to the bottom of the locker, it complies.

How have you progressed with this? I'm interested as I have a similar problem with a wet locker except the bottom of my locker is concrete, previous owner had to raise it to comply with BSS!

 

I abandoned this plan after several folks, some on here, told me it was not a good one.

 

Instead went for some exciting times inside the gas locker with a drill powered wire brush, three coats of Owatrol CIP, and then a hard-wearing two pack paint. The locker will remain wet, but the rusty steel will hopefully be neutralised and protected.

 

Though I secretly still want to pour liquid rubber into something....