A Wee one to start again.

[Cheshire cat]

So he's up and posting at 4 o'clock even though he's half dead and four hours later he's 200 miles away north of Newcastle and posting again.

 

Have a well earned rest tomorrow Wayne. You've earned it.

[W+T]

So he's up and posting at 4 o'clock even though he's half dead and four hours later he's 200 miles away north of Newcastle and posting again.

 

Have a well earned rest tomorrow Wayne. You've earned it.

 

 

And got an early finish , now sat with my Bloody Mary, never had it before and i have to say its gooood, although i can only just taste it lol. That was the longest day ever, 400 miles with a bad cold is not what i wanted on xmas eve, but hey ho, home now for a few days and hope top get a bit done if i feel better.

 

.

 

 

tenacity - great word which i had to look up.

 

 

Had to look that up myself as well, Very good word i have heard it before and thought it was a word meaning aggresive means.

 

 

Bring on Christmas

 

many best wishes form me and T, dont get to drunk as i will do that for you all

[W+T]

At long last my flu or darn bad cold has died off a little and left with a chesty cough so having waisted all xmas sat sulking i though i would get off my back side and do a bit, just a bit mind you.

With not being in the boat for a few week i first went in for a tidy up and only to find the god dam ******* cats had been in the boat peeing everywhere, not just in the cabin but around the rear deck, so that was first clean up, next will be let our Ziggy play with them next time when i catch them sick to death of pee and poop of them and owners welllllll.......

 

So one cleaned up a little i did an easy bit of cutting back the insulation so the water tanks can fit back in snug as with the insulation being fitted i lost 50mm on the lower edge which pushed the tank out to far. As i said it was an easy job with an hand saw

Edited December 28, 2015 by W+T

[W+T]

This is one of the leaks that are in 2 of the windows, i have found, i hope, what is causing it and that is the sealant that i used when i rebuilt the frames hasnt fully sealed it properly. What i need to do is wiat for it to dry out fully then only way i can get in to add some creeking crack cure is to get a Dremmel or the like sand remove as much as i can then use the CCC and more sealant. then hope it works, they are not coming out again that is for sure, i think T would give me a Viking burial on the drive if i remove them windows again lol.

Edited December 28, 2015 by W+T

[W+T]

Oh and i just love this boat, i have found myself another wee job ( oh i am not Scottish by the way lol i do seem to wee a lot ) i havnt a clue when they built these boat to just twin skin the rear third of the cabin top with 18mm`ish foam, this has gone all soggy and now de`laminated. This is the section, about 1500mm x 1150mm section, easy job i reckon, just a matter of cutting all around the edge which can be seen in the pics then scraping all the mess out and then bonding new insulation up and possibly bond the cut out section of inner GRP back up.

Edited December 28, 2015 by W+T

[W+T]

Nothing to shout about but i am doing what i can, more blooming insulating.

 

I left the rear cabin to dry out before i could sane it back better then insulate, a reat old mess. I keep saying this, but i think this is the last of the dusty messy bit, well but for sanding the hull below water line down in a few month.

 

So upto now i have done the hull sides as shown before, the rear bulkhead cabin top...and i think that is it, so 59mm sides and 25 mm top and above gunwale, this is to save on head room, i am 5`6 and just stand up in the rear area which will be the galley and head/wet room.

 

 

I am unsure what to do here, as always i cant make my mind up, i want to prevent as much condensation as i can. One idea is to line out with ply and again stick it down with poly expanding foam then carpet over, or line out straight on top with carpet, but in the past once had a boat with the later done and the areas of contact, mainly seating, were dinted a lot due to a soft backing ( just insulation ) i think i have answered tat one myself.

Now a better idea is to use 6mm hardwood ply to line out with and varnish but then its cold on the inner surface even if insulated. Now to maybe fix this problem i could fit a solar vent to keep air circulating constantly if needed, mainly at night.

 

Any thoughts on lining would be good please

[W+T]

I though i would add a few bits bits of what i have been upto, nothing much again, but keep plodding on. It has been to cold to do what needs doing, And found a leak from somewhere, i guess best to find it now than later when its fitted out. Hope i have found the place it is coming from but i will have to wait for good downpour to find out, unless i get the hose pipe out.

 

I was going to make the front window frames from plywood, but nah, needs proper wood i reckon. These are attached to the window frame bolts, only 8 of them though, the rest have been cut back.

 

 

 

The inner frames will have PU foam sprayed behind them to join in with the surrounding insulation, this will also protect the wood from condensation and damp etc a bit more if it is sealed in the insulation. The inner side will be covered with the lining ply and carpet.

 

That was as far as i got with that as the temps dropped again so no gluing or insulating could be done.

 

Now that was a week or so ago, in the last few days i have started to make the cabin door, i was wanting to go with solid wood, Sapele, a great affordable hardwood with good looks, the infact as the rubbing strakes i have made. Only trouble is that the bulkhead is slightly out of square so it would be a faff and look odd, to me anyway, so the choice was to go with a GRP door, which is a small benefit from it being also insulated, i have made it from 25mm PU foam sheet. This way i can make it so it takes on the off set of the frame and look no different.

 

The door frame has a raised edge as can be seen here.

 

 

What i did was to press the board onto the raised edge to get a mark where i need to cut the grove i need for the door to sit into.

Once marked out i used a straight edge and a 12mm drill to cut out the grove, not all the way but to about 10mm deep at most, it is easy to control if the drill is held at an angle of 45 deg ~. Once done all around i used my finger then a wood chisel to give a nice shape, doing it bit by bit to the depth needed.

 

 

To hold the board down while i laminate the first two i screwed a few battons inside so i can screw the board down,

 

 

For now i layed up two laminations of 650grm combination matt, not over the edges but just to the flat. Let it set then today i removed it as it just pulled off as the screws i used were small headed and pulled through he foam board.

 

 

[W+T]

So next step was to lay another three layers of the same 650grm matt and a final tissue to help smooth out,

 

 

 

You can see how transparent it is still, i hope it will be a good 8mm thick so a good strong door, this will be along with the inner which will be laminated over also with stiffeners in between. So a twin skin insulated door

 

I hear some saying ` how will it open though` to answer, it will be in three sections, upright vertical section will be separate from the top section which will be in two sections so it can hinge upwards out the way and not stick up high, the top section will over lap the bottom section to keep security a bit better and rain run off, all edges will be over lapped an inch or so with either ally strip or bonded in GRP with weather strip added to prevent drafts and again water getting in.

 

More will be done as weather will be getting better now. It has been getting a bit disheartening with not being able to do much, bad timing i guess, and finding a leak behind the new insulation.

 

hey ho, we carry on dont we, just keep dreaming of sitting on deck fishing with a bottle or two in hand

[boat fan]

You have brought her a long way already Wayne.

 

Fine work !

[Phil Ambrose]

She is going to be awesome by the time you finish, you have demonstrated just what can be done with determination (and a lot of skill)

Phil

[W+T]

Thanks guys, now i know what a greenie is i gave you one each

 

So its been a struggle getting things done really, dont have much rime after work due to longer work hours, weather has been not to kind, temps to low for me to do what i ant, i like it to be above 5 deg at least for laminating and using resin etc, just bonds better in high temps, close to 20 is best, lol i think i will move abraod for my next project them

I am not sure if i mentioned but i found two small leaks/drips from the cabin top which i found i think, hard to do now it is all lined out with insulation, and then i had to wait for it to dry out to fettle the areas and then for it to pee down again, which it is now so lets see what will happen.

 

Now what has been done recently is to do the fine detail sanding around the tread areas, find more areas where when the boat was moulded it was a bad job, little holes here and there. I have a tub of TOP STOP Gold for the fine holes and scrapes, it is a very fine filler, like the P38 filler just smoother.

 

Catch up on the door i am making.

 

I fettled the inner side of the door, another 3 laminations of the 650grm combo matt and surface tissue, Oh yes, but before that i shaved back the edge so it still fits in the door aperture. As once all laminated up it will be around a 12mm added to the width. Then i added some 18mm thick timber for the roller dead locks to fit to. Although i am now only fitting one rooler dead lock to the lower half and a twin shoot bolt to the top so as better security as this is hinged on the top and will also hold down the loer panel, you will see what i mean further along in this post.

 

 

 

These are the hinges i have used, they are UPVC door hinges, just need to snap of the small locating tabs and carefully mark them in place, difficult part is that the hinge bolt holes are behind the pins so you need to mark the holes before you put the pins in.

I like them as they are strong and slimline. I have fitted them temp with wood screws and once ready i will use M5 SS screws.

 

So door in place and cutting in half and roughly inplace., it is nice and solid now with the inner side laminated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[W+T]

A few bits and bobs have been done, just to add to the unfinished job list due to things going wrong, For one it raining in as the dam cats have made the canopy like a bloody sieve, I was going to get the rear deck seating area finished, but as it got wet i had to take wat i can into the house and let it dry out before i seal it, so that will be asap and then i can get on with that and trim it etc.

The other thing is a drip, just one but one to many, it is a pin prick hole near te base of the hatch, and it is getting in a few feet back where there is matting showing through, this came about as i as finishing the sanding and an old repair had failed. I knew about the capillary action in GRP work, but for it to seep through that far i was supprised. So the the whole front cabin top is covered to dry out before i repair it. Will be weeks if not a month or so.

 

Anyway, what has been done, i got some of the electrics delivered the other day,

 

Would you believe thiese few parts cost more than the boat did lol, so for those thinking about why i dont have a cost sheet for this project, this is the reason

 

Cable as of, 60m of 2mm for the lighting and power/USB points etc and 3mm for the horn, front deck light and the hihg amp points. All within good limits for Volt drop, around 3.5%.

 

I decided to put the fuse box just inside the cabin door, reason for easy access and is it is close to the battery/batteries which will be under the cabin entrance step which is what is needed, closer the better. The box that holds the fuse box needs SS screws, as for now it is a temp fix using standard ones.

 

 

 

Now as i like to make life hard i thought why not make a new dash instead of the basic flat bulkhead. I want a can holder for a start, happened to find an empty can lying aroundto see where i wanted it to go and somewhere for a compass, oh and a few pencils, for......not a clue lol.

 

 

Its not fully desgined yet a si was just messing with ideas,but once decided on it willbe finihsed as the doors have been.

 

Oh yes the doors, they are nera done, just finla touchs, as here, i gave them a coat of primer to show up any defects, not to many, just a bit more stopper and they are good to hang, i found some SS CS bolts for them in the tool box, bonus saved a tenner lol

 

 

Thats about it i think for todays effort, i did thread the steering cable into place but not fitted as i need to get a few measurments first. but happy that a bit more is done.

[gazza]

Cracking effort mate.

 

I've been sanding and filling 50 year old ply! Along with sloshing grey polyurethane paint around the insides of the new lockers, still no pics I'm afraid

Edited April 2, 2016 by gazza

[the barnacle]

great work, also i see your using the bonet of your car to cut the fibre sheet - i hope not with a stanley knife

[W+T]

Cracking effort mate.

 

I've been sanding and filling 50 year old ply! Along with sloshing grey polyurethane paint around the insides of the new lockers, still no pics I'm afraid

 

 

Oh joys of sanding you jammy sod lol.

 

 

great work, also i see your using the bonet of your car to cut the fibre sheet - i hope not with a stanley knife

 

 

It makes a great cutting table, it needs a paint job anyway

 

 

Bit more done today, not that theres much to see, the locker seats are in place now and sealed and dry, along with the trim ready to be trimmed back and laminated over. I am having trouble finding aluminium Z section/profile for the locker hatchs and deck hatch, if cant find any i will make some from Sapele.

 

 

I did a little more on the dash, its near ready for the laminating, i was going to do it today but bit tiered and this insulation is messy and gets in all nook and cranny when its sanded.

Cant think of anything els ei ant to add to it so i will do more this week when i get time.

 

 

 

No pics but i started to channel out the insulation for the cables to run, these will be taped over later to hold the cables in place untill i ply line it. Cant line it all yet but a good start will be done. The head/wash room will not be done just framed and that will be last to be done.

Edited April 3, 2016 by W+T

[boat fan]

If you don`t mind me asking W+T , what foam core are you using ( the one that you carved the dash out of ) ?

 

Is this glass / polyester resin layup or epoxy ?

 

Can you not just lay f/ glass tape inside the wire chase , no real need for the plywood then ?

[W+T]

If you don`t mind me asking W+T , what foam core are you using ( the one that you carved the dash out of ) ?

 

Is this glass / polyester resin layup or epoxy ?

 

Can you not just lay f/ glass tape inside the wire chase , no real need for the plywood then ?

 

Hi kida, dont mind at all, its what its for this place

 

All the foam is polyurethane foam insulation boards, it is what all the moulds were made from ( front window apertures, first hatch that i made and the dash). and the boat insulated with. All layed up with polyester resin, epoxy is way to expensive for this job. not needed.

 

Not sure what you mean by the highlighted question. I will be lining out with 3mm ply then carpet over that. the cable routing is to just fit the cable then line over.

 

All best

 

wayne

[W+T]

Its been a carcking day weather wise so this morning i popped over to my GRP supplies as i ran out of matting, well infact Ziggy shredded it , stupid dog. So i got a few meters of 300grm CSM for the dash and 25l of more resin, i got 25l as i will be sealing the whole deck and engine well soon befor ei paint it. Treated myself to a mini roller/paddle for doing the dash aswell.

As soon as i got home i removed the dash from the boat as i stuck it down temp with duct tape and done the finishing touchs on the corners etc. For now i have just added two lamination as when it is set i want to lay a few more on but with a few lips around the edge to screw it donn to the bulkhead.

 

No pics of the upto npw laminations of it, but nothing much to see. yet anyway.

 

 

 

Now this bit i am chuffed with, i have near finished the engine well trim, just a little filling to finish it to a better standard and i will then prime it all to find the defects that need more filling. I have been looking forward to this step for ages as it feels a step closer to the outside complete. But for the resin coat and paint etc it is done....i think lol.

 

Oh i treated my self again, seen these sanders in Lidl and thought it would come in handy, sure did, cheap thing but is great to use, just need to find more sanding wheels.

 

And the good bit

 

 

I have decided to make a set of bilge keels, reason is that i really want to take it to sea, just inshore but this way we can stay on it overnight without rolling out of bed when tide goes out. I need to get this done before i complete the fit out really so this will be during the start of the fit out as the new kele will be fixed to the out edge on the hull, just inside lower chine, could be better on the chine infact for better strength, i may never take to sea but while i am at it i mite as well do it now, no big cost either..

[Murflynn]

how do you mange to use a keyboard when your fingers and clothes are sticky with resin?

 

 

 

how will you fix the bilge keels?

they may have to take significant stresses which would tend to rotate them and tear them off, possibly with damage to the base hull.

I would always go for legs fitted loosely so they can't transmit any forces to the hull.

Edited April 9, 2016 by Murflynn

[W+T]

how do you mange to use a keyboard when your fingers and clothes are sticky with resin?

 

 

 

how will you fix the bilge keels?

they may have to take significant stresses which would tend to rotate them and tear them off, possibly with damage to the base hull.

I would always go for legs fitted loosely so they can't transmit any forces to the hull.

 

The stuff dries dam quick on the hands lol. If there is to much my nose come in handy.

 

I know what you mean about the poss damage to the hull, i am thinking on a SS steel plate inside bolted through to an outer SS plate ( being 6-8mm thick ) than a ply/GRP keel bolted to that. Up to now i am thinking a 3 foot long but the SS plates larger, maybe 4 foot long, these plates willbe bedded down with resin/fillite.

 

You have got me thinking on legs now again, could, well will be safer from damage.

[Murflynn]

I've been using epoxy resin for many parts of my GRP hull conversion - messy.

 

the other day I used a squeegee to put a polyester resin gelcoat on the epoxy/glass sheathed plywood cabin roof - I had forgotten how easy it is to work with polyester.

[boat fan]

I've been using epoxy resin for many parts of my GRP hull conversion - messy.

 

the other day I used a squeegee to put a polyester resin gelcoat on the epoxy/glass sheathed plywood cabin roof - I had forgotten how easy it is to work with polyester.

 

 

Yep , I don`t like the mess either , using the stuff , but there is nothing better .....yet .

 

Do you guys use white vinegar to clean up with ?

 

Not as toxic and volatile as acetone.

 

Your O / B Well looks really good W&T.

[W+T]

This notfinished but as i am that chuffed with it here it is before the primer.

 

Now i made a reat mess of the dash when i was trying to fit it on the bulkhead when i was laminating it in place i thought it was held in place with the silicone i used to hold it temp, but when i turned around when finished the whole lot slid down and made an easy job twice as hard as i had to remove it when it was just going green, near set. NOT hood,

 

At that stage Murflyn i didnt get any pics, my hands were literally covered in resin.

 

Well it needed loads of sanding back as it was as ruff as a bears rear end. Then a trim back again and this time i set it in place with resin/fillet. Then i just filled and fettled it all. I used the props to hold ot inplace, no chance was it moving this time.

 

 

The helm is fitted and the edges are blended in, just a little more final filling with Stopper for slight imperfections ( has to look nice ) and then ready to prime. I has to fit captive nuts for the helm mounting plate as it is a tight squeeze to get in, all i did was use bridging filler to hold the nylocs in place, worked a treat

 

Oh and the drinks holder to be made and slotted in place and all done, but happy as we are.

 

 

 

[RLWP]

Where's the holder for your beer glass?

 

Richard

[W+T]

Where's the holder for your beer glass?

 

Richard

 

 

On its way , i will be moulding one then fitting it in the dash. Easier than laminating in the dash etc.

 

watch this space