bigcol Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Many of you reading the title are proberly saying ffs But it's a positive post,!!!! Maybe of help to others, also reflecting on all the help, and problems with heating in the past. I went through 2 refurbished webastos, and One new eberspacher. Having problems with the boat not heating fully in the cabins bow and stern. ( a freezer) I ran 6 large radiators and a water tank. The heating unit never recycled, but never really got hot. I've now had all the pipe work changed from plastic to copper And had a Rayburn fitted, and now have heating through out the boat. With or without circulation pump the pipe work is high and the pipes and rads get really hot. But were stopping using the Rayburn, summers here! And last 3 mornings been using the eberspacher and now also heats up the whole boat, as hot as the Rayburn, which brings me back to the conclusion, it was always about the instalation! Folks you know who you are,! repeated these words on your replying helpful posts, and to confirm they were right!! I was ashamed when the old plastic pipes, and many joiners, elbows, straights were removed, all low level hidden away. A proper instalation of 22 mm straight runs, one high and one lower level has made our diesel heater perform like it should, radiators balance and bled properly it's a joy!!!! Mornings 2 hours of diesel heating in transforms our boat to a warm boat through out. What happens now, never before,! is the heater every 10 mins, winds down, and then returns to full power. Never had this before! The pipes and radiators are hot hot don't know if this is good or bad but Right through our heating problems, 1,2,3 people were highlighting the importance of correction instalation Lots of others also helping and also questioning their own heating niggles. But I now realise that the diesel units were not faulty, it WAS the instalation, We now enjoy 2 different ways of heating the boat, and yes it took along time getting there It wasn't the units, it was the instalation. So if any folks have heating problems, pipes rads not getting hot as they should, its easier to blame the unit, but maybe look at the instalation. Many thanks Col Edited May 11, 2015 by bigcol 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0atman Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 no votes left, so a well done from me, next winter will be lovely and warm for you if this one ever ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John V Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Well done Col !!! Glad to hear that you have cracked it. My re-vamp (adding diesel heating to the existing Rayburnsystem) has been delayed until later in the summer, hopefully I will be as successful John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Yes thanks for posting such a helpful update. Suggests to me your original problem was the circulating pump was not powerful enough to cope with the small diameter pipes. Either that or a physical blockage that was removed with the scrapped old pipework. MtB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smileypete Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Good to hear it's finally working as it should, well done for persevering.. cheers, Pete. ~smpt~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Yes thanks for posting such a helpful update. Suggests to me your original problem was the circulating pump was not powerful enough to cope with the small diameter pipes. Either that or a physical blockage that was removed with the scrapped old pipework. MtB Exactly so Mike they are not, and that's why not using the correct bore pipe as specified in the install manual is listed as a reason for potential warranty rejection for new installs. The root cause of 90% of failures is install deviations of some sort or another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smileypete Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) Exactly so Mike they are not, and that's why not using the correct bore pipe as specified in the install manual is listed as a reason for potential warranty rejection for new installs. The root cause of 90% of failures is install deviations of some sort or another. So what diameter do they specify? With say 5kW output, not a lot of flow is required for a 10°C drop across the rads. But correct radiator balancing is going to be critical with long runs of 15mm. cheers, Pete. ~smpt~ Edited May 17, 2015 by smileypete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 22mm So what diameter do they specify? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 But correct radiator balancing is going to be critical with long runs of 15mm. Lucky if that even gets done on ones with 22mm tube though, another issue I often find on service visits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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