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Heating installation


bigcol

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Many of you reading the title are proberly saying ffs

 

But it's a positive post,!!!! Maybe of help to others, also reflecting on all the help, and problems with heating in the past.

I went through 2 refurbished webastos, and One new eberspacher.

Having problems with the boat not heating fully in the cabins bow and stern. ( a freezer)

I ran 6 large radiators and a water tank.

The heating unit never recycled, but never really got hot.

 

I've now had all the pipe work changed from plastic to copper

And had a Rayburn fitted, and now have heating through out the boat. With or without circulation pump the pipe work is high and the pipes and rads get really hot.

 

But were stopping using the Rayburn, summers here!

And last 3 mornings been using the eberspacher and now also heats up the whole boat, as hot as the Rayburn, which brings me back to the conclusion, it was always about the instalation!

 

Folks you know who you are,! repeated these words on your replying helpful posts,

and to confirm they were right!!

I was ashamed when the old plastic pipes, and many joiners, elbows, straights were removed, all low level hidden away. A proper instalation of 22 mm straight runs, one high and one lower level has made our diesel heater perform like it should, radiators balance and bled properly it's a joy!!!!

Mornings 2 hours of diesel heating in transforms our boat to a warm boat through out.

 

What happens now, never before,!

is the heater every 10 mins, winds down, and then returns to full power.

Never had this before! The pipes and radiators are hot hot don't know if this is good or bad but

 

Right through our heating problems, 1,2,3 people were highlighting the importance of correction instalation

Lots of others also helping and also questioning their own heating niggles.

 

 

But I now realise that the diesel units were not faulty, it WAS the instalation,

 

We now enjoy 2 different ways of heating the boat, and yes it took along time getting there

It wasn't the units, it was the instalation.

 

So if any folks have heating problems, pipes rads not getting hot as they should, its easier to blame the unit, but maybe look at the instalation.

 

Many thanks

 

Col

Edited by bigcol
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Well done Col !!!

 

Glad to hear that you have cracked it. My re-vamp (adding diesel heating to the existing Rayburnsystem) has been delayed until later in the summer, hopefully I will be as successful cheers.gif John

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Yes thanks for posting such a helpful update.

 

Suggests to me your original problem was the circulating pump was not powerful enough to cope with the small diameter pipes. Either that or a physical blockage that was removed with the scrapped old pipework.

 

 

MtB

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Yes thanks for posting such a helpful update.

 

Suggests to me your original problem was the circulating pump was not powerful enough to cope with the small diameter pipes. Either that or a physical blockage that was removed with the scrapped old pipework.

 

 

MtB

Exactly so Mike they are not, and that's why not using the correct bore pipe as specified in the install manual is listed as a reason for potential warranty rejection for new installs. The root cause of 90% of failures is install deviations of some sort or another.

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Exactly so Mike they are not, and that's why not using the correct bore pipe as specified in the install manual is listed as a reason for potential warranty rejection for new installs. The root cause of 90% of failures is install deviations of some sort or another.

 

So what diameter do they specify?

 

With say 5kW output, not a lot of flow is required for a 10°C drop across the rads. But correct radiator balancing is going to be critical with long runs of 15mm.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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But correct radiator balancing is going to be critical with long runs of 15mm.

Lucky if that even gets done on ones with 22mm tube though, another issue I often find on service visits.

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