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Painting my 4LW


swift1894

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I may paint my engine this Summer. ? What's the best way to strip the old paint off? Some of it's flaking. It's a cast iron engine. What's the best way to paint it? Does it need a primer or is it best to just put a thin top coat on? Might even polish the cylinder head covers!!!!! Any hints?

Edited by swift1894
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I think the answer depends on the standard of finish you are hoping to achieve. For a top end job I'd suggest that you remove the existing paint, flat back, prime, undercoat and gloss - all a complete nightmare on an engine. You could remove the flaking paint, feather down the surrounding edges, spot prime the bare bits, undercoat them then gloss the whole lot. I'm assuming that you are doing this in situ, by the way. No idea where you are, but I can source the appropriate Gardner grey from my local paint supplier for you. Good luck!

 

Dave

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I think the answer depends on the standard of finish you are hoping to achieve. For a top end job I'd suggest that you remove the existing paint, flat back, prime, undercoat and gloss - all a complete nightmare on an engine. You could remove the flaking paint, feather down the surrounding edges, spot prime the bare bits, undercoat them then gloss the whole lot. I'm assuming that you are doing this in situ, by the way. No idea where you are, but I can source the appropriate Gardner grey from my local paint supplier for you. Good luck!

Dave

No, if I do it, I'll do it all ( no feathering). Dare I use paint stripper? It will be in situ so a bit of a nightmare (that's why I keep putting it off!!!)
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Most modern paint strippers wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding! The problem would be getting all of the softened paint out of all the crooks and nannies! You'll need time and patience in artic loads to strip it and start over. The rocker box polishing would be a breeze by comparison. PM me for a phone No if you want to discuss things.

 

Dave

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Most modern paint strippers wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding! The problem would be getting all of the softened paint out of all the crooks and nannies! You'll need time and patience in artic loads to strip it and start over. The rocker box polishing would be a breeze by comparison. PM me for a phone No if you want to discuss things.

Dave

Gulp! I'll go and have another look at it to assess all the nooks and crannies. Edited by swift1894
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You should talk to a custom glass etcher about the kind of sand blasting kit they use. There are a lot of small sandblasting units available that would probably make your paint stripping endeavor a comparative breeze.

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You should talk to a custom glass etcher about the kind of sand blasting kit they use. There are a lot of small sandblasting units available that would probably make your paint stripping endeavor a comparative breeze.

That's an interesting suggestion.

Do you mean one of these?

eBay item number:201285288986

Edited by jenevers
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A word of caution regarding grit blasting your engine. As you can see from our website we have been toiling away for some months on a Gardner 6L3, The owner had the boat grit blasted with the engine in situ ,but sheeted, with all the inlets etc taped up. We were surprised (horrified) at the amount of grit that got in the slightest open chink in the dust protection. Grit blast components from a dismantled engine by all means, we do. But never, ever attempt it on a complete engine or else tears before bedtime!

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Couple of years ago i wanted to repaint a four cylinder motorcycle engine, a little smaller than the OP engine . However, after removing said engine (crowbar and 3 men !! - Japs work to very tight clearances) All ports were sealed up using silicon mastic and ply blanking plates before being soda blasted. A softer options than grit blasting and resulted in a very good clean which was then wash down in hot water, thoroughly dried (in the lounge in front of a radiator- well it was winter) before being hand painted. And which is still looking good. Only problem may be the size of the engine ? and finding a local soda blasting shop near you. I used one near Andover. good luck with your project.

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A word of caution regarding grit blasting your engine. As you can see from our website we have been toiling away for some months on a Gardner 6L3, The owner had the boat grit blasted with the engine in situ ,but sheeted, with all the inlets etc taped up. We were surprised (horrified) at the amount of grit that got in the slightest open chink in the dust protection. Grit blast components from a dismantled engine by all means, we do. But never, ever attempt it on a complete engine or else tears before bedtime!

Wise words. Duly taken on board. Thanks for the warning. Now........... where's my scraper and engine degreaser?

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  • 1 month later...

Wise words. Duly taken on board. Thanks for the warning. Now........... where's my scraper and engine degreaser?

The little cheap hand held domestic steam cleaners are good at this. Takes a while but will take unsound paint off. Do wear a visor.

 

Mop up the leavings with supermarket cheap nappys.

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The little cheap hand held domestic steam cleaners are good at this. Takes a while but will take unsound paint off. Do wear a visor.

 

Mop up the leavings with supermarket cheap nappys.

Good idea. Thanks

I have recently used Autosol for polishing the top of my Gardner, and would recommend it.

Thanks for the info. I see that there is an Autosol specifically for aluminium which is what, I presume, the rocker covers are made of (?).

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Thanks for the info. I see that there is an Autosol specifically for aluminium which is what, I presume, the rocker covers are made of (?).

When I was a lad there was only one Solvol Autosol and it WAS for ally. In my case, specifically for use on motorbike chaincases etc.

 

Far too expensive for general use!

 

George ex nb Alton retired

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I would wash it down with water rinceable degreaser, flirt a wire brush in a drill (better for small area than an otherwise better suited angle grinder) , wash with tack fluid, and slosh some paint of the preferred colour over it and be done.

 

 

Daniel

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would wash it down with water rinceable degreaser, flirt a wire brush in a drill (better for small area than an otherwise better suited angle grinder) , wash with tack fluid, and slosh some paint of the preferred colour over it and be done.

Daniel

What's "tack fluid"???

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What's "tack fluid"???

Fluid for putting on a tack-cloth, a bit of googling suggests 'panel wipe' returns more results.

 

Brand may vary, but basically a non-reside degreaser with manageable volatility.

- Most 'engine degreasers' intentionally leave a film to prevent rusting, which you obviously don't want.

- Most 'brake and clutch' degreasers flash off so dam fast its hard work and you breath too much in.

 

 

Daniel

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Fluid for putting on a tack-cloth, a bit of googling suggests 'panel wipe' returns more results.Brand may vary, but basically a non-reside degreaser with manageable volatility.- Most 'engine degreasers' intentionally leave a film to prevent rusting, which you obviously don't want.- Most 'brake and clutch' degreasers flash off so dam fast its hard work and you breath too much in.Daniel

Thanks. "Panel wipe" I'm familiar with.

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I had an illuminating e-mail from Walsh's, the firm who rebuilt my 2LW, yesterday. The oval Gardner badges on the side of the engine have the background around the lettering painted in red. On one of my badges, this red paint is flaking off. So I contacted them to ask what paint this was, assuming that it would be a special Gardner colour.

 

Back came the prompt reply, "It's just ordinary enamel, you can get it in any model shop". So, no need to seek it out and pay specialist restorers' prices, just buy a little tin of Humbrol.

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Not at all surprised, at the end of the day, while for some thing the right paint is critical, paint is just paint.

 

Back in the day, they would have just painted it, got it degreased, got some red, brush, done. To recreate that, get some paint!

 

 

Daniel

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