butt splice connectors

[Phil1884]

Just wiring in my 12 V tv and radio. I was wondering if it is acceptable to connect 3 wires using a butt splice crimp connector, so, I'd have 2 going in one end, and one coming out the other. I would have used wago connectors but I'm using 4.5 mm2 flex and those connectors seem to only go up to 4 mm2.

 

 

Thanks

[eightacre]

I would use scotchlocks....

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALL-COLOURS-QUANTITIES-MIXED-SCOTCHLOKS-SCOTCHLOCKS-YELLOW-RED-BLUE-SNAP-LOCK-/200976005149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item7475e137c6

[Chalky]

I would use scotchlocks....

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALL-COLOURS-QUANTITIES-MIXED-SCOTCHLOKS-SCOTCHLOCKS-YELLOW-RED-BLUE-SNAP-LOCK-/200976005149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item7475e137c6

 

These are a guaranteed way to have it fail. Use a standard mains junction box that's designed to take larger cables or invest in a proper automotive crimping tool and crimps and do it the correct way.

[RLWP]

I would use scotchlocks....

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALL-COLOURS-QUANTITIES-MIXED-SCOTCHLOKS-SCOTCHLOCKS-YELLOW-RED-BLUE-SNAP-LOCK-/200976005149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item7475e137c6

 

Please don't, they are truly awful connectors

 

Richard

[MtB]

How about soldering them?

 

 

 

MtB

[jonesthenuke]

Depends on the space available but if you have room there are plenty of small junction boxes for this size wire, search for this on the net.

 

60A JUNCTION BOX 3 TERMINAL SHOWER COOKER 60 AMP

[Phil1884]

Yeah I haven't heard the best reviews for scotchlocks but thanks for the suggestions. Will take a look at these junction boxes....

[MtB]

"butt splice connectors"

 

Snigger

 

 

 

 

MtB

[smileypete]

When using fine stranded wire into ordinary screw terminals, some bootlace ferrules on the ends will make for a tidy looking and secure connection.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited February 23, 2015 by smileypete

[Chalky]

 

Please don't, they are truly awful connectors

 

Richard

 

They're known in the automotive industry as "bodge locks". They slice through the cable that they're connecting to and cut the copper. It makes the cable more liable to breaks and is you're unlucky they can overheat. From talking to colleagues in the service teams they were usually responsible for a significant number of electrical faults on customers cars.

[Neil Smith]

I had a factory fitted towbar fitted on a new ford ranger in 2005, have problems with left indicator so took out rear light cluster where they made all connection and guess what, all done with scoth locks so yes load of crap.

 

Neil.

[pearley]

I had a factory fitted towbar fitted on a new ford ranger in 2005, have problems with left indicator so took out rear light cluster where they made all connection and guess what, all done with scoth locks so yes load of crap.

Neil.

Sorry Neil. That wouldn't have been factory fitted. Years of working for Fords and in the aftermarket, you would have specified a towbar to the dealer and he would have got a local ' specialist' to fit it.

 

Their proper name is insulation displacement connectors and the two trade associations, MESF and FITAS, won't countenance their use.

[RLWP]

 

They're known in the automotive industry as "bodge locks". They slice through the cable that they're connecting to and cut the copper. It makes the cable more liable to breaks and is you're unlucky they can overheat. From talking to colleagues in the service teams they were usually responsible for a significant number of electrical faults on customers cars.

 

They also pierce the insulation and allow water in if used in wet areas, leading to localised corrosion and high resistance

 

 

Sorry Neil. That wouldn't have been factory fitted. Years of working for Fords and in the aftermarket, you would have specified a towbar to the dealer and he would have got a local ' specialist' to fit it.

 

Their proper name is insulation displacement connectors and the two trade associations, MESF and FITAS, won't countenance their use.

 

I fitted our towbar, bought from a local supplier, and it had a faulty beeper. They replaced the unit FOC and were very impressed with crimp connectors. They, of course, use Scotchlocks because they are quick to fit

 

Richard

[Neil Smith]

Sorry Neil. That wouldn't have been factory fitted. Years of working for Fords and in the aftermarket, you would have specified a towbar to the dealer and he would have got a local ' specialist' to fit it.

 

Their proper name is insulation displacement connectors and the two trade associations, MESF and FITAS, won't countenance their use.

That is correct to the letter, but what I meant was I specified it from new yes then the dealer subs it out, but it is priced in the ford sales list as an extra.

 

Neil.

[Paul C]

Don't most cars from around 2002 (which can tow) have a custom wiring loom available from the manufacturer, which simply plugs into a convenient socket on the car's fusebox or somewhere similar, and provides the towbar wiring? I know mine does (2003 model) but it costs around £160, where a simple generic towbar wiring kit costs around £10. (The official one provides for 13 pin socket though, the cheap one does 12N).

[Alf Roberts]

Just wiring in my 12 V tv and radio. I was wondering if it is acceptable to connect 3 wires using a butt splice crimp connector, so, I'd have 2 going in one end, and one coming out the other. I would have used wago connectors but I'm using 4.5 mm2 flex and those connectors seem to only go up to 4 mm2.

 

 

Thanks

Three ways:

 

1. bootlace ferrules and chocolate block

2. 2 5mm machine screws through a block of wood with M5 x 4mm² uninsulated ring terminals and heat shrink

3. barrier terminal and M4 x 4mm² uninsulated ring terminals and heat shrink

Edited February 24, 2015 by Alf Roberts

[Chalky]

2. 2 5mm machine screws through a block of wood with M5 x 4mm² uninsulated ring terminals and heat shrink

 

 

Which is ok until the wood gets wet. You they get a small current flow through the wet wood which will cause a number of interesting problems including flat batteries. If you've got a high enough voltage and enough current it could overheat. If you do go for this approach use something like paxolin, fiberglass etc.

[Paul C]

If sharing one fuse box/circuit breaker panel output to two devices, rather than "splitting" the wires at some point along its length, why not alter the terminals on the first (in distance) device to accept 2 wires, then take the 2nd set of wires to the further device. eg instead of having the split in the wire, make it at the terminal.

 

The other way to do it would be to run (a) second (set of) wire(s) to the fuse box itself and piggyback onto the fuse/circuit breaker connector - but then I think this is what you're trying to avoid?

[MtB]

 

Which is ok until the wood gets wet. You they get a small current flow through the wet wood which will cause a number of interesting problems including flat batteries. If you've got a high enough voltage and enough current it could overheat. If you do go for this approach use something like paxolin, fiberglass etc.

 

 

Let's bear in mind the OP is only connecting his telly and radio in the cabin. One would hope his wiremanship here isn't going to get wet, and even if it did, the boat isn't at any risk.

 

How about using one of these?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ashley-J301-Brown-4-Term-Selective-Entry-Junction-Box-20A-79mm-3-Inches-/171682888349?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27f918fa9d

 

 

MtB

[pearley]

Don't most cars from around 2002 (which can tow) have a custom wiring loom available from the manufacturer, which simply plugs into a convenient socket on the car's fusebox or somewhere similar, and provides the towbar wiring? I know mine does (2003 model) but it costs around £160, where a simple generic towbar wiring kit costs around £10. (The official one provides for 13 pin socket though, the cheap one does 12N).

Correct, but as you say the cost difference means that the dealer will go for the option that will return the greatest profit. The problem that can arise is that the customer ordered, and thought he got, a genuine factory part, only to find when something went wrong and he took the car to a different dealer, that it wasn't. Then all sorts of arguments occur.

 

I once fitted air conditioning to an Iveco Daily. The customer had ordered it with the factory option but when ordering it from the factory forgot it. I was asked to fit it, which actually cost more then the factory, but they didn't tell the customer. It wasn't until he looked through the handbook he realised it wasn't factory, because the controls were completely different.

[NMEA]

Use but splices as you suggest, but not the nasty Halfords type with the hard insulation, use either un insulated and a serarate bit of adhesive lined heatshrink or use the type with heatshrink already fitted. Unless of course you wish to have it removable, in which case there are plenty of crimp on male and female connector blocks available from the likes of Maplin.

[David Mack]

"butt splice connectors"

 

Snigger

 

But not as much schoolboy sniggering as the term used by Ashley (in the Glossary) for one of these: