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waterproofing shower enclosure


DanMax&Belle

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Hi All,
Please see the picture of the enclosure that, all going well, will be my tiled shower within a couple of weeks. I wanted to run by by the good folk of CW my thinking on waterproofing this area.

 

I intend to fully tile with metro style tiles the 6 or so square meters covering the shower enclosure and hang a curtain across the front. There is a 700mm x 700mm shower tray as the shower base.
Given the tons of similar advise on posts on this forum i have decided to take a 4 pronged approach to waterproofing the area in the hope it will seriously minimize any chance of water getting behind tiling.
1. I have used WBP ply in the construction of the area.
2. Silicon (or similar - any suggestions?) in liberal amounts to fill the joints between the sheets of WBP ply
3. Shower tanking/waterproofing kit to cover off all the are that will be tiled
4. Ditra matt to cover the area that has been tanked
The WBP + tanking + Ditra + Tile adhesive + Tiles on all sides will slightly overhang the shower tray. I presume i would liberally silicon the ... is there any merit in tanking/Ditra matting under the base aswell? FYI there is a 150mm diameter hole in the floor for the waste trap to fit through.
Thanks
Dan

 

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Hi All,
Please see the picture of the enclosure that, all going well, will be my tiled shower within a couple of weeks. I wanted to run by by the good folk of CW my thinking on waterproofing this area.

 

I intend to fully tile with metro style tiles the 6 or so square meters covering the shower enclosure and hang a curtain across the front. There is a 700mm x 700mm shower tray as the shower base.
Given the tons of similar advise on posts on this forum i have decided to take a 4 pronged approach to waterproofing the area in the hope it will seriously minimize any chance of water getting behind tiling.
1. I have used WBP ply in the construction of the area.
2. Silicon (or similar - any suggestions?) in liberal amounts to fill the joints between the sheets of WBP ply
3. Shower tanking/waterproofing kit to cover off all the are that will be tiled
4. Ditra matt to cover the area that has been tanked
The WBP + tanking + Ditra + Tile adhesive + Tiles on all sides will slightly overhang the shower tray. I presume i would liberally silicon the ... is there any merit in tanking/Ditra matting under the base aswell? FYI there is a 150mm diameter hole in the floor for the waste trap to fit through.
Thanks
Dan

 

 

 

Hi Dan

 

My advice would be to forget about tiling it. However good a job you do you will eventualy get water ingress between tiles and grout. I would completely line the inside of the shower cubicle with vinyl floor covering as you would use on a kitchen or bathroom floor. With care you can use one piece and therefore not even have corner joints to let water through. I have done this twice now and it works a treat some hire fleets do it which is where I got idea from. Stick the vinyl to wooden bulkheads with spray contavt adhesive. If you can do it with a hot air type blow heater in the room at time it will make vinyl more supple and easier to use.

 

Tim

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Sounds good except for the silicone, the waterproof kit probably recommends what to use. Else it's the same stuff as what you

fix a car front window with, and no need to be liberal with it.

Urethane Glue any sort that allows painting over.

Only use silicone on visable surfaces.

 

Tiles are not waterproof so you will get water behind it. Something should be done under the base yes, at least raise the matt up.

 

Or what Tim said :)

 

If you really want tiles do as Tim said and glue the tiles in place.

 

For tiling you really should have about 20mm of ply and not more then 45cm between beams.

 

I've seen Vinyl mats with Tile patterns in the past.

 

Hope any of this helps.

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I've just replaced my tiles, which had leaked badly and stained the bedroom bulkhead. First I tanked with the Aquaseal kit (cheaper than the Bal, and has good reviews). Then installed Showerwalls on three sides, which was a really hard job in such a restricted space. Used liberal amounts of silicone where the walls meet the shower tray. Haven't used theshower yet so I don't know if it's waterproof!

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thanks so much all for all the replies.

 

Love the idea of a stainless-steel welded enclosure but alas the expense may hold me back.

 

However taking that thinking forward why not an enclosure directly after the WBP made of sheet plastic, welded and enclosed in the same way as you would with stainless steel. This surely could be achieved for 10s rather than 100s of pounds and would flex to allow for the mechanical/thermal dynamics blackrose mentions?

 

Cheers

 

Dan

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Would be cheaper, but plastic discolours over time, and you would have to use suitable cleaning products.

thanks onionbargee but I was thinking of tiling ontop of this

 

WBP then plastic as above, maybe additional layer of waterproofing Ditra mat for eg then tiles.

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I've just bought Pvc panels that look like tiles, the panels slot together and should give greater flexibility than tiles, and hopefully will be easier for a cack handed craftsman like me.

 

They are called dumalock / Dumapan. and came to 80€ (about 60 quid ) for a corner shower 800 mm.

 

Cant tell you if they work cos they are still in a box though........

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You could always rig it up to have a waterless shower, a shower that simply sprinkles ''Shake'n'Vac from its rose all over you, then just Hoover it off, just like a carpet. A box of Shake'n'Vac on the roof directly above the shower head with a control cock would do the job, I reckon. closedeyes.gif

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thanks onionbargee but I was thinking of tiling ontop of this

 

WBP then plastic as above, maybe additional layer of waterproofing Ditra mat for eg then tiles.

That may work of you use a PU adhesive like marineflex or stixall for the sheet and the tiles, but it sounds like a lot of hassle. It also sounds like leaks are designed to get behind the tiles and personally I wouldn't want water in the enclosure anywhere I can't see it. Once it's behind the tiles who knows where it's going to get. Contrary to what many people think, many pastics can degrade over time and are also subject to environmental stress cracking.

 

It sounds like you're trying to reinvent the wheel. Why not just use a product that's been designed for the job and has already been tested?

Edited by blackrose
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