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BMC 1.5 spill rail fuel leak


Bloomsberry

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I've got my BSS inspection next month and having a quick inspection have discovered a small leak on the spill rail of my BMC 1.5.

It is where the spill rail is bolted onto one of the injectors.

I've had a look at the BMC 1.5 manual and it appears there is just a washer above and below the rail with a bolt going through the lot.

I am going to try and tighten this when I next go to the boat and hope that this cures it but if it doesn't I may need to replace the washers.

 

So the questions I have are -

What are the washers made of , are they a special sealing material ?

Also if the spill rail turns out to be the issue and needs replacing, how difficult a job is this ? Would I need to bleed the fuel lines afterwards or will the air just return to the diesel tank ?

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The washers are copper, you don't need any sealant.

 

When you tighten them, don't go mad. The 'bolts' are hollow and have a hole drilled across them, if you overtighten them they break (experience talking there...)

 

The spill rails are available, it isn't a difficult job, you should only have to bleed the fuel filter - and with certain setups you might no have to do that either

 

Richard

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I've got my BSS inspection next month and having a quick inspection have discovered a small leak on the spill rail of my BMC 1.5.

 

It is where the spill rail is bolted onto one of the injectors.

 

I've had a look at the BMC 1.5 manual and it appears there is just a washer above and below the rail with a bolt going through the lot.

 

I am going to try and tighten this when I next go to the boat and hope that this cures it but if it doesn't I may need to replace the washers.

 

So the questions I have are -

 

What are the washers made of , are they a special sealing material ?

 

Also if the spill rail turns out to be the issue and needs replacing, how difficult a job is this ? Would I need to bleed the fuel lines afterwards or will the air just return to the diesel tank ?

 

Be careful tightening that banjo bolt., its probably already tight and you might strip a thread. Renew the copper washers by unscrewing the leaky banjo bolt and slip the two washers out. Gently clean around mating surfaces and fit the new washers either side of the banjo, slip the bolt through and tighten up JUST ENOUGH.. No bleeding required.

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Washers, bolts and spill rail are available from Calcutt Boats. Tel 01926 813757. Probably from ASAP supplies, Tel

0845 1300 870 | +44 1502 716 993 as well but I didn't get mine from ASAP so I cannot confirm that.
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Thanks for the replies, I'm next at the boat tomorrow so will attempt to sort it then. I think replacing the washers and cleaning the mating surfaces as well is a good idea if the bolt is already tight.

If I have to replace the rail and bleed it afterwards, is this just a matter of losening the connection on the fuel filter and running the engine for a few minutes ?

 

I assume the lift pump can't be used as the spill rail is after the injectors and is therefore on the high pressure side ?

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Thanks for the replies, I'm next at the boat tomorrow so will attempt to sort it then. I think replacing the washers and cleaning the mating surfaces as well is a good idea if the bolt is already tight.

 

If I have to replace the rail and bleed it afterwards, is this just a matter of losening the connection on the fuel filter and running the engine for a few minutes ?

 

I assume the lift pump can't be used as the spill rail is after the injectors and is therefore on the high pressure side ?

 

The spill rail is on the low pressure side. Bleed it with the lift pump at the filters bleed point. You most probably won't need to bleed it though.

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Agreed.

 

If you cannot get hold of new washers heat the old ones to cherry red on the gas stove and allow to cool. That will soften them to a degree.

 

A peculiarly satisfying process, metallurgy in your kitchen

 

Richard

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