rupertbear Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Would anyone like to comment on any of the boat window suppliers? Durability/longevity and value for money? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxmike Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 I'd love to know too, also is there anyone selling refurbished second hand windows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troyboy Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 I bought the replacement windows for my boat in 2012 from Wesley Marine Windows Ltd at Newark . Six 36 inch by 21 inch hopper windows in matt gold and two 18 inch by 21 inch windows one with frosted glass cost one thousand one hundred pounds . Some felt came detached from one hopper window and they speedily sent some to replace it . So far I'm pleased with them . I think it is how they are fitted that can be a factor in how satisfactory windows are . Fortunately mine were fitted by someone who knows what he is doing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wirren Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Channelglaze gave good service when I needed a replacement window glass, rubber seal etc. Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Gray's s-type windows (http://www.narrowboatwindows.co.uk) are pretty good and dead easy to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luggsy Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Procast if you want port holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 I have caldwells but I think they are all a much of a muchness nowdays, so unless you buy second hand you pays your money and takes your choice. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machpoint005 Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 I think it is how they are fitted that can be a factor in how satisfactory windows are . Fortunately mine were fitted by someone who knows what he is doing . ^^ agree wholeheartedly. Probably not such a good idea to go for 'refurbished' -- how on earth would you have got the windows out without b*ggering the frames? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traveller Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Probably not such a good idea to go for 'refurbished' -- how on earth would you have got the windows out without b*ggering the frames? Is that true? If so it is a worry as I have one that needs resealing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dor Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 I bought the replacement windows for my boat in 2012 from Wesley Marine Windows Ltd at Newark . Six 36 inch by 21 inch hopper windows in matt gold and two 18 inch by 21 inch windows one with frosted glass cost one thousand one hundred pounds . Some felt came detached from one hopper window and they speedily sent some to replace it . So far I'm pleased with them . I think it is how they are fitted that can be a factor in how satisfactory windows are . Fortunately mine were fitted by someone who knows what he is doing . Happy with my windows from Wesley's. One nice touch is they do a clamp-in version so you don't need to drill the steel around the frame - always a weak point when the screws inevitably corrode. The clamps work well with window tape so it is easy to remove window if needs be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabcat Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 ^^ agree wholeheartedly. Probably not such a good idea to go for 'refurbished' -- how on earth would you have got the windows out without b*ggering the frames? Carefully. Same way you get them out when you're going to paint the boat and don't want to have to replace all the windows as part of the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machpoint005 Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Carefully. Same way you get them out when you're going to paint the boat and don't want to have to replace all the windows as part of the job. Exactly. What you don't know (on an oldish boat) is who has had 'em out before and put 'em back. In my book that's an unacceptable risk which may lead to greater expense in the long run. Is that true? If so it is a worry as I have one that needs resealing! Depends why it is leaking. If the frame is distorted (even very slightly) then my point is made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rupertbear Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I make that two votes for Wesley's and a general sense that there's not much difference. Time for some quotes, I think. Thanks for the posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
system 4-50 Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I bought my windows in a hurry because the snow kept coming in the 7 holes in the sides and I had 2 inches of ice in the bottom of the boat and it was cold. I bought channelglaze because they had a good name. I drilled and tapped hundreds of holes to fit them (never again) and used sealing tape to seal them. I found the tape awkward because if the screws made contact with the tape they dragged the tape out of position and seized the screw. I used SS screws and they show no sign of rusting yet (5 years). The windows only do half the job I want. I want them to: Let in the light. 10/10 Keep the heat in when closed. 4/10 (better than a hole, just) Keep intruders out. 0/10 Allow air to come in and go out when the ventilators are open. 10/10 Not leak. 8/10 Problems I found: They have a cosmetic rubber strip hiding the screw heads. Amazingly this fills with water, even with an open bit low down. The water then gets past the screws and leaks inside. The metal frames conduct heat away like billyho and get covered in condensation. Condensation does not run away down the rubber channel because this is not a caravan and the window is angled. These are caravan windows! The vents on the outside are screwed on. One of mine is screwed on at a cockeyed angle. Irritating when you've paid out hundreds of pounds. When I visited their showroom, one on display was cockeyed too! The hopper windows leak in severe storms with the wind in a particular direction. The sealing strip stuff weakens with time. Tightening screws is necessary from time to time. The connection between boat and windows is just plain crude. There is no convenient method of coping with a broken window. As I understand it you have to send them the complete window and they fix it, with no easy way of blocking the hole meanwhile. Any half-decent window should offer an easy way of dealing with this. The holes cut in the boat require different bottom corner curvatures depending on supplier. This is a pain if you want to consider changing the set. In short, they cost a lot of money for some very ancient (not in a good way) technology. If anybody produces a well-designed modern unit I will consider changing the lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Richmond Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I do not know who made mine, but they are double glazed, and they are great. Two large windows in kitchen / living room, 46" x 23". One smaller in bedroom, 16" x 23". No problems with condensation, leaks, draughts, string winds etc etc... I have single glazed panes in the hardwood double doors at the front, and I have a side hatch in the corridor and in bathroom, all have problems... Obviously the double glazed units do not open, and many of the problems come from opening... But even so, I would wholeheartedly suggest at least looking in to the prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Ragtime Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Having suffered from condensation, we have just sanded down frames & revarnished -I seem to remember seeing in a boating magazine 2/3 years ago, a strip from a DIY store that could be applied to the sill to collect the condensation from the frames - does anyone have any idea what this was? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traveller Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Happy with my windows from Wesley's. One nice touch is they do a clamp-in version so you don't need to drill the steel around the frame - always a weak point when the screws inevitably corrode. The clamps work well with window tape so it is easy to remove window if needs be. Was there a problem retro-fitting this type of window, assuming that is what you did of course? I can imagine having to remove the window's surrounding woodwork inside the boat so as to fit the internal half of the clamp- if you get my drift :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Québec Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) We used Caldwells, a mixture of hoppers and sliders. Seem OK. I will say that their customer service was excellent when we had a problem with the brass-finish glaze 'crackling' severely less than a year after they were fitted. After an email exchange with photos, one of the Directors (a Caldwell) came down from Wigan to where we were moored near Nantwich, with the chief engineer of the company who makes the frames for them. Had a thorough look, and offered to fit a whole set of new windows for free. Edited January 28, 2015 by Québec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dor Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Was there a problem retro-fitting this type of window, assuming that is what you did of course? I can imagine having to remove the window's surrounding woodwork inside the boat so as to fit the internal half of the clamp- if you get my drift :-) I've had the windows out, it isn't a problem. The internal frame is screwed to the lining to cover the gap. The screws are under wooden plugs which are easy to remove by putting a sharp screw into the middle of the plug, then just unscrew the screws holding the frame. The window clamps are then easy to access. Used window tape rather than any sort of silicone or mastic, so just undid the clamps and removed the window. Refitting was the reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traveller Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I've had the windows out, it isn't a problem. The internal frame is screwed to the lining to cover the gap. The screws are under wooden plugs which are easy to remove by putting a sharp screw into the middle of the plug, then just unscrew the screws holding the frame. The window clamps are then easy to access. Used window tape rather than any sort of silicone or mastic, so just undid the clamps and removed the window. Refitting was the reverse. Hanks but I am having difficulty in understanding how I would fit similar windows as a replacement to my existing standard ones. Cannot see how the inside fitting would work without significantly messing around with my internal lining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 You can't retro fit the clamp in sort without removing the lining around them. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traveller Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 As I thought might be the case. Thanks, Neil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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