Damaged door needs to be repaired - what will stick to varnish

[rubblequeen]

Hi, I have an external wooden door that someone has attempted to break in through. Fortunately they didn't get in however, they have damaged a really nice wooden door. It has been varnished several times and will prove difficult to sand completely down due to the damage. One idea I have is to face it with a ply panel but not sure what adhesive will stick onto the existing door.

Any advice please.

 

Can not remove the door for too long because of security.

[Robbo]

If you post a photo of the damage, some people here may have other suggestions on how to repair.

[Paul's Nulife4-2]

How BLXXDY annoying for you !,

 

As already suggested a photo will help, can you Only Sand down and repair an area, taking it back to say a Joint in the Woodwork !

For example Just the Upright from top to bottom, Stopping at the joints where the Horizontal bits fix !

[koukouvagia]

I've had to repair wooden doors on both the motor and the butty where they they had begun to rot at the bottom. I didn't want to disturb the painted panels. So I used a Fein multitool to cut the damaged wood out and then patched the door with ply, using ordinary weatherproof wood glue. Once it's sanded down the patch is invisible. I've also let a patch into the cabin framing - using the same wood as the original.

 

 

 

 

[Burgiesburnin]

Just use normal contact adhesive applied to both surfaces.

[DHutch]

Agree we need to see a photo, but a thin ply or wood veneer face would be one option depending on the damage.

 

Daniel

[bizzard]

Clad the outside of it with steel sheet.

[rubblequeen]

Thanks for all your suggestions and sorry but too far away now to get a picture - my plan was to clad it with a thin ply sheet as there really isn't too much of the surface that isn't damaged. However, they didn't get in so the strength is still in the door, just plain vandalism in the end probably because they were unable to gain entry.. I will sand down as much as possible and use a contact adhesive.

[Paul G2]

Any adhesive you use is only going to stick to the surface it is applied to. If it is applied to varnish, it will be sticking to the varnish. Varnish comes off real easy with paint stripper, so you might want to consider removing the varnish with stripper before you glue on the new veneer. If you go that route, though, take along a hot air gun or something similar because you wash stripper off with water and you want the underlying wood to be dry when you apply the adhesive and veneer.

 

Most veneers are applied with contact cement. This process takes a bit of skill, but it avoids having to use clamps. If you use some kind of wood glue or construction adhesive, you really need to put pressure on the veneer to force a tight fit if you want to do a proper job.

 

If you want to use contact cement, just say so here and I'll explain the easiest way to get your veneer on properly.

 

Good luck with your project!

[Chewbacka]

If you go to the trouble of removing the varnish and you are going to use ply, then I would lay the ply on the floor (smooth and flat) coat with adhesive and then lay the door on top. A couple of weights placed on the door will have everything nice and snug. If you use a polyurethane adhesive then it will cure within a few minutes, with handling strength within an hour or so. Polyurethane is good for exterior use and sticks better than PVA.

It is quite cheap as well, and a bit of damp - not wet - will actually speed the cure. Not too thick or it will ooze out and at best make a mess and at worse will stick itself to the floor - I know this :-(

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/d180/Wood+Adhesive+PVA/sd3198/Polyurethane+Wood+Adhesive+750g/p93568

 

If you want a perfect fit then I would cut the ply slightly oversize and after it is fully bonded on, run round the edge with a trimming cutter in a router.

[Paul G2]

If you go to the trouble of removing the varnish and you are going to use ply, then I would lay the ply on the floor (smooth and flat) coat with adhesive and then lay the door on top. A couple of weights placed on the door will have everything nice and snug. If you use a polyurethane adhesive then it will cure within a few minutes, with handling strength within an hour or so. Polyurethane is good for exterior use and sticks better than PVA.

It is quite cheap as well, and a bit of damp - not wet - will actually speed the cure. Not too thick or it will ooze out and at best make a mess and at worse will stick itself to the floor - I know this :-(

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/d180/Wood+Adhesive+PVA/sd3198/Polyurethane+Wood+Adhesive+750g/p93568

 

If you want a perfect fit then I would cut the ply slightly oversize and after it is fully bonded on, run round the edge with a trimming cutter in a router.

 

Sounds like a good plan!