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I love a really hot Shower!


Lostsky

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Mine is the opposite. Max only. I mix cold in at the taps. Anything lower than max and the flame cuts in and out. I called morco about it but unless you can give a gas safe number immediately you can't even get past the reception desk.

 

Well I can give GSR number, and I still only get a knuckledragger who doesn't understand the question when I call them. I've given up now.

 

MtB

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They're designed to run on pressure between 1 bar and 10 bar. Maybe they only really work to the full potential at something closer to the top end?

 

 

A good point. Sooner or later I'll invest some time in experimenting and establish how to reproduce the fault on demand, and under what conditions it doesn't occur. Then at least I'll know and be able to advise peeps what can be done to fix it, even if I still don't understand the true technical reasons for it happening.

 

Instantaneous water heaters work in a completely different way to boilers and very few people understand in detail how they work. Or at least I've yet to meet anyone who can satisfactorily answer my questions about how they work. Maybe I should give Paloma Bob a call. I'm sure he must understand in proper depth how they work. It can't be THAT difficult!

 

Once I understand in complete detail how they work I should be able to understand the mechanism by which the unstable flame problem occurs, and accurately answer Captain Zim's question above.

 

MtB

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lovely hot showers here as well with a Morco D61B.

 

It took some setting up with the pump and the accumulator. The pressure in the accumulator has to be right so the pump cycling is right to keep the flame full on the Morco. You could scold yourself in our shower now or you know, just have a nice hot shower. The only thing I would say that's a problem, or could be if you're not used to it, is that the mixer shower seems to respond very slowly to changes. The flame on the Morco can cycle slightly between full and nearly full depending on how the shower is set but the water temperature in the shower is constant.

 

The pump we use is a Jabsco Parmax 3.5, I think. The accumulator is one of those silver jobs from swindlers. The pipe work is 22mm from the pump going to 15mm on the hot water side and 15mm off to each tap/the shower.

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  • 2 years later...

Hi, I don't know if this thread is still active, but I'm looking for advise on replacing or repairing my Paloma PH-5-3F. The pilot light is on, but it doesn't ignite to heat the water... I've heard about the famous Paloma Bob, but not have his contact details. Is anyone able to share those with me? 

Alternatively, I'm looking at the Morco D61, but it seems that Morco has some production hick-ups at the moment and all shops are running out of stock.. Does anyone know of any addresses to get one?

Thanks

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40 minutes ago, anouk said:

Hi, I don't know if this thread is still active, but I'm looking for advise on replacing or repairing my Paloma PH-5-3F. The pilot light is on, but it doesn't ignite to heat the water... I've heard about the famous Paloma Bob, but not have his contact details. Is anyone able to share those with me? 

Alternatively, I'm looking at the Morco D61, but it seems that Morco has some production hick-ups at the moment and all shops are running out of stock.. Does anyone know of any addresses to get one?

Thanks

Try cleaning the gauze filter and pressing the button on the side before condemning it

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2 hours ago, BWM said:

With regard to supply pressure, has anyone tried using twin pumps? Having a pumped supply direct to the water heater would seem like a solution to some faults identified in the thread. 

I have twin pumps but one is for the cold supply and the other for the hot.

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3 hours ago, anouk said:

Hi, I don't know if this thread is still active, but I'm looking for advise on replacing or repairing my Paloma PH-5-3F. The pilot light is on, but it doesn't ignite to heat the water... I've heard about the famous Paloma Bob, but not have his contact details. Is anyone able to share those with me? 

Alternatively, I'm looking at the Morco D61, but it seems that Morco has some production hick-ups at the moment and all shops are running out of stock.. Does anyone know of any addresses to get one?

Thanks

There is also a @Paloma Bob on the forum.Not sure if it is the PB, mayb an imposter, but worth a PM

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1 hour ago, frahkn said:

I have twin pumps but one is for the cold supply and the other for the hot.

That's exactly what I was asking about, and have left space, connections, etc. so I could fit one if needed when my shower is finally installed. How do you find it? 

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My Morco works sooooo much better with a 37psi pump. On hot setting with the flow rate turned down  2/3rds, the pump cuts in and out, but the flame stays. As with all multipoints, water pressure is paramount, and if the flow rate fluctuates especially towards the lower operating parameter, you probably are not opening up to full flame in the first place.

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7 hours ago, BWM said:

That's exactly what I was asking about, and have left space, connections, etc. so I could fit one if needed when my shower is finally installed. How do you find it? 

It was the arrangement when I bought the boat; I don't know why.

Questions on this forum revealed that two pumps are common on long Orions and Hudsons. Mr Smelly removed one of his without any problem.

I haven't found any difficulty but I would point out that the hot pump has lasted unchanged for four years while I have had to replace the cold pump 4 times in that period. I have no explanation for this.

I have a temperature controlled mixer shower run from the engine or an emersion heater or from an instant gas heater - it is fine (although subtle different) from all three sources.

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On 19/09/2017 at 22:58, frahkn said:

It was the arrangement when I bought the boat; I don't know why.

Questions on this forum revealed that two pumps are common on long Orions and Hudsons. Mr Smelly removed one of his without any problem.

I haven't found any difficulty but I would point out that the hot pump has lasted unchanged for four years while I have had to replace the cold pump 4 times in that period. I have no explanation for this.

I have a temperature controlled mixer shower run from the engine or an emersion heater or from an instant gas heater - it is fine (although subtle different) from all three sources.

Thanks 

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  • 2 years later...
On 30/12/2014 at 08:42, Captain Zim said:

There is also the morco g11e which is the one we use. This model has a higher flow rate and allows you to turn the flow rate down to get a higher temperature. It is almost exactly the same to look at as the d model. Same flue fitting so no worry about bridges. On max flow of 11 litres/min you will get the 25 degree rise, on 5.5 litres per min you will get 50 degree. Which is plenty hot enough. However, we have found you do need a decent pump. We used to have a jabsco par max 4 which was fine so long as you leave a bit of time between turning on and off otherwise you get a bit of a bang. We now have a whale intelligent control pump which is the noisiest pump I've ever heard. On the plus side, at a constant rate of 14 litres per min (3 ish bar I think, can't remember) the heater now works fine. The jabscos are better i think and should do you for most needs. You can upgrade some of them simply by changing the pressure cut in switch.

No idea if anyone is still active from this thread but the G11E installation manual states: A minimum length of vertically rising flue of 600 mm.

....is this 60mm from the roof or does it include the flue length inside the boat?....if it is all outside then not a chance of me using one whilst cruising about - I need an instant hot water option as can’t rely on calorifier - running the engine for 2-3 hours every night isn’t on and winter means cooler water for the morning shower....may not have a choice but was hoping to avoid having to run taps for the time it takes to get the water 40 feet from calorifier to tap 30feet to shower....a lot of wastage and see no option to put calorifier any further up the boat.....although not sure of the rules for the placement of one of those.

 

cheers all, any advice gratefully received.

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7 minutes ago, The Grumpy Triker said:

No idea if anyone is still active from this thread but the G11E installation manual states: A minimum length of vertically rising flue of 600 mm.

....is this 60mm from the roof or does it include the flue length inside the boat?....if it is all outside then not a chance of me using one whilst cruising about - I need an instant hot water option as can’t rely on calorifier - running the engine for 2-3 hours every night isn’t on and winter means cooler water for the morning shower....may not have a choice but was hoping to avoid having to run taps for the time it takes to get the water 40 feet from calorifier to tap 30feet to shower....a lot of wastage and see no option to put calorifier any further up the boat.....although not sure of the rules for the placement of one of those.

 

cheers all, any advice gratefully received.

I think flue length is both inside and outside the boat.

 

In any case can't your outside flue be demountable when you're cruising?

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18 minutes ago, frahkn said:

I think flue length is both inside and outside the boat.

 

In any case can't your outside flue be demountable when you're cruising?

I’d hope so in which case it would probably work....down side is that it is on the bank side so even 300mm could be an issue.....given what I’ve read I’m guessing there is an issue with detachable flues and gas as no-one has mentioned it...but I’m far from being any source of real knowledge on here, hence the question. Have read loads on here but most of the decent reviews are for heaters which are no longer made and getting harder to find in decent nick.

Next BSS is two years away so would hate to spend any savings on a new system and then have to rip it out in 2yrs time. ?

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