Neil Smith Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Hi all, Just a thought but I think I should put in skin fittings before cladding hull as I wont be able to tighten them up. What size for kitchen sink, bathroom basin, bath, washing machine and bilge pumps. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) 19mm for WM and bilge pumps (unless a large pump, but the pump will specify), sinks if directly exiting thru hull - 32mm. Bath will be 19mm via a pump like a gulper. Edited December 23, 2014 by Robbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koukouvagia Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 When I fitted out the kitchen on the butty I fitted a little removable panel so that I could get to the skin fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 You can still tighten them with a box spanner after you have clad, I often do this when retro fitting skin fittings, a large hole saw through the panelling, when the pilot hits the hull you have the centre, cut the required size for the fitting and use the larger neatly cut out piece of cladding as a panel over the hole with the hose through it, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Sounds like a plan as I can get it clad first then get the fittings exactly where I need them. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetman Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) Maybe you could consider having small steel pipes welded in instead of skin fittings? Thats what I'd do if the boat was not lined and insulated. I prefer welded in fittings to screwed type, on a steel hull, as long as they are done properly with a small slope downwards so they don't trap moisture. and properly welded. Not sure what the BSS says about it but I've had more than one boat with this type of fitting and they seem to be quite good, to me. edit to add: I realise the boat is probably insulated and you aren't 100% sure where you want the fittings yet so this probably is not appropriate on second thoughts. Edited December 23, 2014 by magnetman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Maybe you could consider having small steel pipes welded in instead of skin fittings? Thats what I'd do if the boat was not lined and insulated. I prefer welded in fittings to screwed type, on a steel hull, as long as they are done properly with a small slope downwards so they don't trap moisture. and properly welded. Not sure what the BSS says about it but I've had more than one boat with this type of fitting and they seem to be quite good, to me. edit to add: I realise the boat is probably insulated and you aren't 100% sure where you want the fittings yet so this probably is not appropriate on second thoughts. I think if its not a hire boat then the BSS is happy for you to drill a hole and shove a bit of pipe through at water level or even below if you can get the drill to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 The boat is on dry land but has been insulated and 2 pack blacked so will get some skin fittings and fit them. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
system 4-50 Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Maybe you could consider having small steel pipes welded in instead of skin fittings? Thats what I'd do if the boat was not lined and insulated. I prefer welded in fittings to screwed type, on a steel hull, as long as they are done properly with a small slope downwards so they don't trap moisture. and properly welded. Not sure what the BSS says about it but I've had more than one boat with this type of fitting and they seem to be quite good, to me. edit to add: I realise the boat is probably insulated and you aren't 100% sure where you want the fittings yet so this probably is not appropriate on second thoughts. From personal experience the hull holes that you put in the wrong place will not be the ones you are not sure about but the ones you are sure about! Leave cutting the holes to the last possible minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Never a wiser word. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onionbargee Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 You can get skin fittings from a plumbers merchant for a fraction of the price of chandlry ones, they are called tank connectors. They will have two small lugs on the outside face, which can be whizzed off with a grinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 Do they sell in 19mm and 32mm. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetman Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 I have used tank connectors before but being brass they can corrode (dezincification?) in certain conditions. I suppose this probably doesn't matter much on a canal boat but it can be very serious on sea boats, or so I have heard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 (edited) Do they sell in 19mm and 32mm. Neil Not really, the 1/2" BSP are 21mm major dia and the 1" BSP are 33.25mm, that's the closest, you could of course add a female BSP to ???mm hose tail, I did it once in an emergency but they are not as neat as a skin fitting with combined hose tail. As an example I buy beautiful 3/4" chromed DZR brass with an integral 19mm hose tail for under £7, not really a lot of point using anything else. Even at retail they are under a tenner. http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/product_details.asp?ID=12379 Edited December 24, 2014 by NMEA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetman Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 Tank connectors are for.15,22 or 28mm copper tubing. I would rather the security of a hose barb type skin fitting and two t bolt clamps to secure the 'ose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 I have used tank connectors before but being brass they can corrode (dezincification?) in certain conditions. I suppose this probably doesn't matter much on a canal boat but it can be very serious on sea boats, or so I have heard. As you say, brass (except DZR) is only OK above the waterline, oddly the RCD allows brass fitting even below the waterline on sea going boats but they do corrode, mostly from galvanic action, I not infrequently replace them with Marelon ones on boats of only 5 years old. I would certainly not use brass below the waterline even on a canal boat using shore power withot a G.I. as stray currents can be present everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onionbargee Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 22 mm tank connector is £2.68 at screwfix. Plumb straight to it with 22 mm plastic pipe. I will admit a tenner for a marine skin fitting is not a big spend on a boat, but every little helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 I need 4 x 19mm and 2 x 32mm, so about £40 for the 19mm and probably £30 for the 32mm. might have to bite the bullet and do it right. Neil Also I will have to bolt in the flue collar before ceiling goes up to get to bolts, so I will have to get flue and fire lined up exactly in the right place, measure twice cut once. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetman Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 Its probably worth it. How are you planning to cut the holes in the hull side? Its probably 6mm I imagine. For the collar you could consider fixing with M10 bolts by drilling 8.5mm then tapping a thread into the steel cabin top rather than using nuts. Its tidier. I did once fit a collar with no bolts at all, just heatmate silicone and it never moved at all. Not much load on a stove collar but probably not best practice to be fair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 I'd second NMEA above. You won't get dezincification above the waterline, but you should take precautions against disimilar metal corrosion with anything other than steel. It sounds like you won't, but don't have an outlet or intake below the waterline unless you really, really have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onionbargee Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 M10 tapped into 4 mm sheet would be only 40 % of the strength of the bolt. I.e 3.2 threads. Its strange that we still use cast iron flue collars from wooden boat era on steel cabins. A welded on one would solve any need to seal it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 I need 4 x 19mm and 2 x 32mm, so about £40 for the 19mm and probably £30 for the 32mm. might have to bite the bullet and do it right. A tip when cutting the holes, put the pilot from the inside and use a decent hole saw from the outside (I love the Bosch power change cobalt ones but sizes are a bit limited) as you are outside you can get an assistant to gently play a hose on the cutting area, keeps the bit cool and lubricates it too and makes the job much easier. If you use the ones in my link you will need a 27mm hole saw for the 19mm (3/4" BSP) and 42mm for the 32mm (1 1/4" BSP) Hole saws are on the Starrett site for every size and material you can name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 I will use a tank cutter for the holes in the hull and for the roof collar, the roof is 4mm is that thick enough to tap a large bolt into as the thread is fairly coarse and would only have a few threads in it. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetman Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 (edited) I agree with Onionbargee about the technicalities but if you are fixing a normal canalboat flue terminal to it they are pretty light weight and will fold if you hit a bridge before the 40% strength bolt moves at all. Of course if you were to use a more rigid terminal it might be a problem I suppose. As far as welded collars yes its an option but most people will probably go for cast bolt in type for convenience and standard terminal size etc. Edited December 24, 2014 by magnetman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onionbargee Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 A tip when cutting the holes, put the pilot from the inside and use a decent hole saw from the outside (I love the Bosch power change cobalt ones but sizes are a bit limited) as you are outside you can get an assistant to gently play a hose on the cutting area, keeps the bit cool and lubricates it too and makes the job much easier. If you use the ones in my link you will need a 27mm hole saw for the 19mm (3/4" BSP) and 42mm for the 32mm (1 1/4" BSP) Hole saws are on the Starrett site for every size and material you can name. Sorry, but water is not a lubricant for cutting tools, cutting pastes, oils or emulsions are, if you use them you'll probably get 10 times the life out of the tooling. Water will do didly sqit except keep it cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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