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You can still tighten them with a box spanner after you have clad, I often do this when retro fitting skin fittings, a large hole saw through the panelling, when the pilot hits the hull you have the centre, cut the required size for the fitting and use the larger neatly cut out piece of cladding as a panel over the hole with the hose through it,

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Maybe you could consider having small steel pipes welded in instead of skin fittings? Thats what I'd do if the boat was not lined and insulated. I prefer welded in fittings to screwed type, on a steel hull, as long as they are done properly with a small slope downwards so they don't trap moisture. and properly welded.

 

Not sure what the BSS says about it but I've had more than one boat with this type of fitting and they seem to be quite good, to me.


edit to add: I realise the boat is probably insulated and you aren't 100% sure where you want the fittings yet so this probably is not appropriate on second thoughts.

Edited by magnetman
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Maybe you could consider having small steel pipes welded in instead of skin fittings? Thats what I'd do if the boat was not lined and insulated. I prefer welded in fittings to screwed type, on a steel hull, as long as they are done properly with a small slope downwards so they don't trap moisture. and properly welded.

 

Not sure what the BSS says about it but I've had more than one boat with this type of fitting and they seem to be quite good, to me.

edit to add: I realise the boat is probably insulated and you aren't 100% sure where you want the fittings yet so this probably is not appropriate on second thoughts.

I think if its not a hire boat then the BSS is happy for you to drill a hole and shove a bit of pipe through at water level or even below if you can get the drill to work.

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Maybe you could consider having small steel pipes welded in instead of skin fittings? Thats what I'd do if the boat was not lined and insulated. I prefer welded in fittings to screwed type, on a steel hull, as long as they are done properly with a small slope downwards so they don't trap moisture. and properly welded.

 

Not sure what the BSS says about it but I've had more than one boat with this type of fitting and they seem to be quite good, to me.

edit to add: I realise the boat is probably insulated and you aren't 100% sure where you want the fittings yet so this probably is not appropriate on second thoughts.

From personal experience the hull holes that you put in the wrong place will not be the ones you are not sure about but the ones you are sure about! Leave cutting the holes to the last possible minute.

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I have used tank connectors before but being brass they can corrode (dezincification?) in certain conditions. I suppose this probably doesn't matter much on a canal boat but it can be very serious on sea boats, or so I have heard.

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Do they sell in 19mm and 32mm.

 

Neil

Not really, the 1/2" BSP are 21mm major dia and the 1" BSP are 33.25mm, that's the closest, you could of course add a female BSP to ???mm hose tail, I did it once in an emergency but they are not as neat as a skin fitting with combined hose tail. As an example I buy beautiful 3/4" chromed DZR brass with an integral 19mm hose tail for under £7, not really a lot of point using anything else.

 

Even at retail they are under a tenner. http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/product_details.asp?ID=12379

Edited by NMEA
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I have used tank connectors before but being brass they can corrode (dezincification?) in certain conditions. I suppose this probably doesn't matter much on a canal boat but it can be very serious on sea boats, or so I have heard.

As you say, brass (except DZR) is only OK above the waterline, oddly the RCD allows brass fitting even below the waterline on sea going boats but they do corrode, mostly from galvanic action, I not infrequently replace them with Marelon ones on boats of only 5 years old. I would certainly not use brass below the waterline even on a canal boat using shore power withot a G.I. as stray currents can be present everywhere

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I need 4 x 19mm and 2 x 32mm, so about £40 for the 19mm and probably £30 for the 32mm. might have to bite the bullet and do it right.

 

Neil


Also I will have to bolt in the flue collar before ceiling goes up to get to bolts, so I will have to get flue and fire lined up exactly in the right place, measure twice cut once.

 

Neil

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Its probably worth it.

 

How are you planning to cut the holes in the hull side? Its probably 6mm I imagine.

 

For the collar you could consider fixing with M10 bolts by drilling 8.5mm then tapping a thread into the steel cabin top rather than using nuts. Its tidier. I did once fit a collar with no bolts at all, just heatmate silicone and it never moved at all. Not much load on a stove collar but probably not best practice to be fair.

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I'd second NMEA above. You won't get dezincification above the waterline, but you should take precautions against disimilar metal corrosion with anything other than steel. It sounds like you won't, but don't have an outlet or intake below the waterline unless you really, really have to.

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I need 4 x 19mm and 2 x 32mm, so about £40 for the 19mm and probably £30 for the 32mm. might have to bite the bullet and do it right.

A tip when cutting the holes, put the pilot from the inside and use a decent hole saw from the outside (I love the Bosch power change cobalt ones but sizes are a bit limited) as you are outside you can get an assistant to gently play a hose on the cutting area, keeps the bit cool and lubricates it too and makes the job much easier. If you use the ones in my link you will need a 27mm hole saw for the 19mm (3/4" BSP) and 42mm for the 32mm (1 1/4" BSP) Hole saws are on the Starrett site for every size and material you can name.

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I agree with Onionbargee about the technicalities but if you are fixing a normal canalboat flue terminal to it they are pretty light weight and will fold if you hit a bridge before the 40% strength bolt moves at all. Of course if you were to use a more rigid terminal it might be a problem I suppose.

As far as welded collars yes its an option but most people will probably go for cast bolt in type for convenience and standard terminal size etc.

Edited by magnetman
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A tip when cutting the holes, put the pilot from the inside and use a decent hole saw from the outside (I love the Bosch power change cobalt ones but sizes are a bit limited) as you are outside you can get an assistant to gently play a hose on the cutting area, keeps the bit cool and lubricates it too and makes the job much easier. If you use the ones in my link you will need a 27mm hole saw for the 19mm (3/4" BSP) and 42mm for the 32mm (1 1/4" BSP) Hole saws are on the Starrett site for every size and material you can name.

Sorry, but water is not a lubricant for cutting tools, cutting pastes, oils or emulsions are, if you use them you'll probably get 10 times the life out of the tooling. Water will do didly sqit except keep it cold.

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