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Timing chain went out through the cover... could have the engine survived?


Nestor Espinoza

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I was thinking injectors, but yes, lack of compression makes sense, after all it is not that hard to crank it by hand, compared with the petrol engines I have worked on before. I guess I'll remove the injectors anyway and take them somewhere to be tested and cleaned, it won't hurt, and use a compression gauge.

 

Thanks again, we'll get it to start!

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I was thinking injectors, but yes, lack of compression makes sense, after all it is not that hard to crank it by hand, compared with the petrol engines I have worked on before. I guess I'll remove the injectors anyway and take them somewhere to be tested and cleaned, it won't hurt, and use a compression gauge.

 

Thanks again, we'll get it to start!

Honestly NE, if this diesel really is easier to crank by hand than a petrol engine you HAVE a compression problem and, for a diesel that is more important than faffing about with injectors. THE most important aspect for a diesel is compression.

This from your Post #73 (as I keep banging on about) is most telling: "Now when this engine failed I could see that the main pulley kept turning after cranking and then stopped slowly"

Roger

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OK, compression tester has been ordered, I'll continue working on this when I come back from South Africa in Jan, I'll keep you posted. With all the tools I have had to buy so far it would have been cheaper to take it to a shop, but not nearly as fun! It's the first diesel I play around with.

 

Thanks again for all your help, merry Christmas!

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Memory is a bit hazy here but either down inside the block or inside the "tube" on the back of the slipper you should see a little peg sticking out. The slot in that retrieved thing sits over that peg so you can put an allan key into the end of the thing and twist it in and out.

 

I think the spring (Help BIzzrad/Richard) between the slipper and that retrieved thing and the whole lot is compressed by hand while you turn the allan key to allow the slipper to go as far into the block a sit can. When it is fully in the larger indent in that thing at the end of the slot should engage andnhold the assembly in the compressed position.

 

After it ha seen fitted the allan key is used through a hole in the end of the "block" (maybe a hexagon set screw in it to block it ) to release the slipper so it tensions the chain. As the slipper wears oil pressure keeps pushing the slipper against the chain while the helical slot with the indents in prevents whip in the chain pushing the tensioner back in.

 

The manual I have access to for the 1.5 is not much help and has no pictures.

 

Do not fit the cover until you have checked the tensioner is correctly assembled, with all its parts, and the chain tension is correct.

 

Before re-doing the tensioner it's worth double checking the cam and crank dots are lined up correctly. I found that although mine looked lined up by eye, it wasn't correct when checked with a straight edge.

The dots should line up through the centre line of the cam and crank, this isn't the same as having them lined up as near as possible. (Learned from bitter experience).

Have a look in the manual, the diagram shows what I'm trying to explain much clearer than these words.

 

The peg is in the back of the tensioner slipper. You put the spring in, then the bit that was found in the bilge. Wind that bit clockwise with an allen key until it is sitting below the pegs.

Push it back into the housing, then re-attach the tensioner housing to the block. I find a cable tie wrapped to hold the tensioner in place really handy. Once the tensioner assembly is loosely bolted in place and held by the chain, cut the cable tie and finish bolting the tensioner down.

Undo the nut on the back of the tensioner and, using the allen key, wind the tensioner clockwise until you feel the pegs line up with the slots in the bit. You'll possibly feel the allen key kick back as the spring pushes the tensioner into the chain. Replace the blanking screw and copper washer.

 

Rob

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Thanks for confirming that - and the tip about the straight edge. We always used a straight edge on those engines so I never thought someone may do it by eye.

 

From his earlier reply it seems the OP does not think there is a hole in the tensioner mounting block to release the tensioner so I am pleased that you have confirmed there is.

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Thanks for confirming that - and the tip about the straight edge. We always used a straight edge on those engines so I never thought someone may do it by eye.

 

From his earlier reply it seems the OP does not think there is a hole in the tensioner mounting block to release the tensioner so I am pleased that you have confirmed there is.

Not all tensioners have a hole in the body. I've seen some replacements on Rover 2000s that didn't have the hole. I can't remember how we wound the spring up on those though, it may not have had the locking peg. I know we would have used a cable tie to hold the assembly together while refitting though.

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Not all tensioners have a hole in the body. I've seen some replacements on Rover 2000s that didn't have the hole. I can't remember how we wound the spring up on those though, it may not have had the locking peg. I know we would have used a cable tie to hold the assembly together while refitting though.

 

The last time I changed the one on the B it didn't have the hole. Can't remember how I tensioned it. Due for a change soon from simplex to duplex so I'll have to work it out again!

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