leaky gearbox

[Philip Hooton]

My Hurth split gearbox has a leak on the join at the base.

When the box is warm a.t.f. leaks out.

I want to avoid removing the box and it has occurred to me to empty he fluid and slightly slack off the side studs allowing the join to open by a very small amount and push a little silicon sealant into the join. Any suggestions as to the pros and cons or possible pitfalls would be very much appreciated or any other thoughts would be gratefully received. thanks for your time.

[Captain Fizz]

By the time you faff about with that, you may as well remove the box and do it properly.

[Bobbybass]

I agree with Mr Fizz...

 

One thing I have learned over the years..is that it's tempting to look for work arounds for jobs such as this..but it nearly always turns out that it takes longer..costs more..and doesn't work.

 

My 'feelings' on this would be...that when you semi-separate the box....it won't matter how hard you try...when separated oil will continue to leak around the edges while you try and get silicone into it. Thus...the silicone will keep getting washed away from the joint...and after many hours..you will give up..

 

There is a product that I used on a car engine some years back...that you put in the oil and it's an 'oil leak stopper'. I bought it in Wilkinsons. At the time...my car was almost a scrapper...but it did work...although I was worried about the long term affects on it.

 

I would find out the proper torque settings...and make sure your gearbox is attached as tightly as it should be.

 

Good luck !

 

Bob

[RLWP]

How odd - why would that joint leak. Are you sure it isn't the output seal leaking and the oil dribbling down to the bottom?

 

Richard

[dmr]

A question for Richard whilst talking about leaking boxes.

How difficult to replace the input and output shaft seals on a prm260?

Is this something I can do myself in the boat with the standard comprehensive boaters toolkit? or do I need a solid workbench and pullers etc?

I assume I can do the seals without splitting the box? but how hard to get the output coupling flange off???

 

..........Dave

[AndrewIC]

Slackening the sideways bolts alone won't allow the two halves to separate, because there should be half a dozen bolts holding the box onto the adapter plate (heads inside the flywheel housing). Are you sure it's the joint between the halves, and not the output shaft/drain plug/selector lever, etc?

[RLWP]

A question for Richard whilst talking about leaking boxes.

How difficult to replace the input and output shaft seals on a prm260?

Is this something I can do myself in the boat with the standard comprehensive boaters toolkit? or do I need a solid workbench and pullers etc?

I assume I can do the seals without splitting the box? but how hard to get the output coupling flange off???

 

..........Dave

 

Much the same as the PRM 160 here: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=47008

 

The nut on the output will be tight, which will be a challenge, the coupling may just slide off after that. Or you will need a puller

 

The input seal - if you are lucky, you can dig the old one out of the housing and fit a new one without dismantling the box

 

Richard

[Philip Hooton]

thanks for the replies i have eliminated the drain plug and side shift control.as leak sources i will now do a proper job as suggested and remove the gearbox. (when the rain stops) many thanks everyone

[RLWP]

Do some checking around first.

 

You can learn a lot by applying kitchen roll in different places. Clean the bottom off, run the engine in gear for a bit. Switch the engine off, then have a dab around with a wad of clean kitchen roll. You'll probably work out where the oil is coming from

 

Richard

[wirren]

May be of use to someone -

A friend's Technodrive box was leaking at the join ( between the 2 halves ). It was due to excessive pressure within the casing & was solved by changing the breather to one without a ball & spring inside. ( The Technodrive factory do a mod for all future installations).

The area where the leak was cleaned ( using thinners ) & a 'fabric' patch doused in silicone was strapped in position. Its been running without a leak for 2 years now.

 

Mark