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Gardner Paint


mark99

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So's mine - the paint job was the only weak point in Walsh's rebuilding of 2LWs. Rather than use whatever they used, I suggest that you contact Redshaw's and get a pot of their Gardner grey. It is a slightly different shade but, in my opinion, looks better than the Walsh's coating. It is proving to be longer lasting too.

 

I am sure that if you phone walsh's they will be able to tell you the RAL reference (a sort of universal paint colour grading ) if that's what you want.

Edited by Athy
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So's mine - the paint job was the only weak point in Walsh's rebuilding of 2LWs. Rather than use whatever they used, I suggest that you contact Redshaw's and get a pot of their Gardner grey. It is a slightly different shade but, in my opinion, looks better than the Walsh's coating. It is proving to be longer lasting too.

Spot on, I completely redid my 2L2 with Redshaws Gardner Blue.

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So's mine - the paint job was the only weak point in Walsh's rebuilding of 2LWs. Rather than use whatever they used, I suggest that you contact Redshaw's and get a pot of their Gardner grey. It is a slightly different shade but, in my opinion, looks better than the Walsh's coating. It is proving to be longer lasting too.

 

I am sure that if you phone walsh's they will be able to tell you the RAL reference (a sort of universal paint colour grading ) if that's what you want.

 

Seconded.

 

L

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No help to you, but I remember years ago I was collecting some parts from Horbick diesels, at that time the main Gardner agents for the Manchester area, when they had a delivery of bog standard Dulux gloss in a shade of grey that I don't remember. The storekeeper did ask that I didn't spread the word as to what they used, because they weren't supposed to do so.

 

The Craftmaster engine paint is nice to use, though I have no idea how well it would match whatever Walsh's used.

 

Tim

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There is a bit of a disagreement between the various Gardner people between what is the correct gardner grey (Basically it's because they were not all the same) but anyway the general concensus is RAL 7011 or RAL 7010. Ourselves and I believe Redshaw and Danny Williamson all use/used RAL7010 Tarpaulin grey. This appears to be the closest to the majority of Gardners we have had come through the workshop in original grey paint.

 

But to be honest most have been every other colour possible other than grey.................

 

Available direct from many paint suppliers. Symphony coatings (Narrowboat paints) for one and paragon paint for another

Edited by martyn 1
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Tarpaulin grey.

What a marvellously evocative name - it harks back to the days when tarpaulins were indeed that colour rather than bright blue polythene. It harks back, too, to my boyhood model railway which included a "tarpaulin wagon" whose tiny tarp was indeed that shade of grey.

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The Craftmaster engine paint is nice to use

 

Tim

 

I would second that. Good colour density, predictable drying times and easy to brush

 

I doubt that patch painting is ever going to look right, even if you used the same tin that the engine was painted in when restored.

 

Richard

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I would second that. Good colour density, predictable drying times and easy to brush

 

I doubt that patch painting is ever going to look right, even if you used the same tin that the engine was painted in when restored.

 

Richard

 

Agreed, the hot and oily environment will inevitably cause the colour to change.

 

Tim

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Agreed, the hot and oily environment will inevitably cause the colour to change.

 

Tim

 

The paint has flaked on the cyclinder block only. I intended to paint block as a whole and want it to match as far as possible the rest of the engine.

 

I don't want Gardner Grey on base of engine and Gardner Blue on cyliner block.

 

I'll go I think for the RAL 7010 tarp grey.

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The paint has flaked on the cyclinder block only. I intended to paint block as a whole and want it to match as far as possible the rest of the engine.

 

I don't want Gardner Grey on base of engine and Gardner Blue on cyliner block.

 

I'll go I think for the RAL 7010 tarp grey.

 

 

Hi,

 

Interesting, because that is where mine has flaked off - back to bare metal. Re-painted patches have flaked as well.

 

I am repainting these areas with metal primer (several coats) before covering.

 

There is a 2 LW cylinder block on eBay for £200, I am tempted to buy it as a spare............ (suspect it may not come from a 2LW engine though).

 

L

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.....also on the 4LW, no?

 

Yes.

The one distinction with the 2LW is that the end holding down lugs are complete, whereas on the 4 &5 one end is only half a circle, so packing pieces are needed for the clamping washer. An intermediate 8LW block would presumably have this issue at both ends.

 

Tim

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2 cylinder block on a 2LW was also used on a 5LW or an 8LW. Common parts bin job.

The perticular block on ebay is from a 4LW and is a cylinder 1&2 block as it is cropped off at the wrong end for the rear (cylinder 3&4 or 4&5) 2 cylinder block common with a 5LW.

 

.....also on the 4LW, no?

Yes and a 4LW

 

 

Yes.

The one distinction with the 2LW is that the end holding down lugs are complete, whereas on the 4 &5 one end is only half a circle, so packing pieces are needed for the clamping washer. An intermediate 8LW block would presumably have this issue at both ends.

 

Tim

And you are nearly right, an 8LW has two 4 cylinder blocks. it is one of the many components on an 8LW that differs from the other engines in the range.

4lwblock.png

Edited by martyn 1
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The perticular block on ebay is from a 4LW and is a cylinder 1&2 block as it is cropped off at the wrong end for the rear (cylinder 3&4 or 4&5) 2 cylinder block common with a 5LW.

 

Yes and a 4LW

 

And you are nearly right, an 8LW has two 4 cylinder blocks. it is one of the many components on an 8LW that differs from the other engines in the range.

4lwblock.png

 

I did wonder about that, never having worked on an 8LW, but a previous poster had said they had 2-cylinder blocks.

The 8L3B does have 2-cyl blocks though of course rather bigger!

 

Tim

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I did wonder about that, never having worked on an 8LW, but a previous poster had said they had 2-cylinder blocks.

The 8L3B does have 2-cyl blocks though of course rather bigger!

 

Tim

Well the two cylinder block comment for an 8LW is sort of correct if we were talking about Kromhout built ones as they do use 4 2 cylinder blocks instead of the odd to that engine 4 cylinder ones on a Gardner.

 

Now the ones on the 8L3 and 8L3B are only dwarfed by trying to move one of the 3 cylinder ones from a 6L3. dam they are heavy.

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Well the two cylinder block comment for an 8LW is sort of correct if we were talking about Kromhout built ones as they do use 4 2 cylinder blocks instead of the odd to that engine 4 cylinder ones on a Gardner.

 

Now the ones on the 8L3 and 8L3B are only dwarfed by trying to move one of the 3 cylinder ones from a 6L3. dam they are heavy.

 

I imagine fitting a 4-cylinder LW block in situ (onto the pistons) to be almost as much fun as fitting a 4LK block ohmy.png

I've re-linered an 8L3b, don't remember too much struggle with the blocks although I was a bit younger then ;)

What I do remember is Kevin, the spares guy at Horbicks saying that toilet paper was supplied free with the gasket set!!

 

Tim

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Well the two cylinder block comment for an 8LW is sort of correct if we were talking about Kromhout built ones as they do use 4 2 cylinder blocks instead of the odd to that engine 4 cylinder ones on a Gardner.

 

Now the ones on the 8L3 and 8L3B are only dwarfed by trying to move one of the 3 cylinder ones from a 6L3. dam they are heavy.

 

I will be taking advanced orders soon for CDs of Martyn singing "Tiptoe through the Tulips" in his newly acquired falsetto voice. Should keep the pigeons off your crops for a while at least! clapping.gif

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