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Insulation for new build


MikeHing

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What type of insulation do forum members recommend for a new build shell?

My first feeling is to go for sprayfoam but I know that there are other materials, ie sheet polystyrene, Rockwool & 3M Thinsulate.

Is sprayfoam fire retardant? I would have thought that it should be to comply with BSS

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I would say definitely sprayfoam BUT only if it's applied properly. I would be sure to check the result before it is lined out - you want an even depth of foam pretty much to the edge of the battens so there will be hardly any space behind the lining. Some sprayfoam jobs I have seen are pretty gash with lots of concave zones between battens. Some builders like that because it saves them having to cut back any excess, but then they don't have to live on the boat in winter!

Is sprayfoam fire retardant? I would have thought that it should be to comply with BSS

Is the wood you are going to line / fit out your boat with, fire retardant? No, thought not!

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I would say definitely sprayfoam BUT only if it's applied properly. I would be sure to check the result before it is lined out - you want an even depth of foam pretty much to the edge of the battens so there will be hardly any space behind the lining. Some sprayfoam jobs I have seen are pretty gash with lots of concave zones between battens. Some builders like that because it saves them having to cut back any excess, but then they don't have to live on the boat in winter!

 

I have seen some that looks like a coat of paint, mine was like that and had to get the company to come from Wales to Suffolk to redo it.

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Spray foam, without a doubt, but done by someone who knows what they are doing. Spray foam bonds to the hull so leaves no gaps for internal condensation to form behind the scenes. It will keep you warmer in winter, cooler in summer. It is compliant for fire safety regs, to about 600 degrees iirc.

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Thanks for your inputs on this. II will go for sprayfoam.done by someone who knows what they are doing.

Just make sure you check the work.

A small square of plywood with a small nail driven through sticking our one of two inches makes a very good depth gauge.

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Not for a new build, but where I had lining off on my boat I replaced the old (rockwool) with 50mm Celotex (Kingspan is the same...). Super easy to work with, cheap, and lovely and toasty warm!

 

Pretty sure if I had a shell to work with I would go sprayfoam though, just for the simplicity of getting it all done in one hit.

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and don't be put off by any comments about how difficult it is to remove the overspray on the frames and stringers.

a sharp flexible bread knife will cut it all back in about 4 hours as long as your arms are up to it ................. spinach? rolleyes.gif

Put cheap parcel tape on the frames first to stop the foam from sticking.

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Some sprayfoamers will cut back for you, and remove the waste too. Some will tape Batton's too if required, but that's an easy job for you. Remember to mask round/over any window cutouts, mushroom cutouts etc. Flowerpots work well in mushroom cutouts! Make sure they fully spray at least down to the subfloor level.

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All I can add re foaming is even the best job will not likely fill up the angle frames on the boat! Our engine room is foamed, but not lined, we already have trickles from under the angle frames (I haven't gone over it, yet)!

Buy a gun-applied foam and fill everything up, it's so easy to do, and worth every extra penny!

Another point not to skip on is screws for your lining! I noticed tonight in the galley that the filled screw heads in the lining walls were already attracting moisture...I was boiling a stew at the time. Point being, don't leave even a shard of metal exposed anywhere, or certainly not any that's touching your linings AND, whatever you do, don't screw up your linings thinking it won't matter whether the screws are rust proof or not on account it's 'indoors'!

My screws are nowhere near touching the outer steel, and are totally enclosed in wood, but they are somehow transmitting the cold from outside...I'm so glad they're stainless!

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Buy a Japanese saw from screwfix, the million dollar tool for trimming back...you'll not regret it!

 

Edit: sorry, they call them pull saws on the screwfix site http://m.screwfix.com/p/irwin-double-edged-pull-saw-7-17tpi-9-5-241mm/33430

These saws can bend to form a U they are that flexible!

Edited by NorthwichTrader
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